I'm sorry, I really ended up hijacking this. I initially thought I had an issue with my crank sensor. As it turns out my balancer was loose. I rented a 250 ft-lbs torque wrench from Autozone. Bought a 3" extension for the 28mm socket I bought from Autozone to tighten the balancer bolt which is spec'ed at 219 ft-lbs of torque. Initially I was having a tough time tightening this, because the crank would spin when I tried to tighten. So I was told to use a pair of vice grips on the flywheel and that didn't work for me. My car isn't hoisted, the front end on jack stands. I borrowed a tool from Aggressive to put on the flywheel to keep it from spinning and locking the flywheel in place. The problem with this tool is that someone would have to hold it in place. So I decided not to use this tool for safety reasons, not my own, and instead I used my 4' pri-bar. It fit perfectly between the teeth of the flywheel and laid perfect against the starter. Now that I had this part of the puzzled solved. Next up was how to get the torque to 219 ft-lbs. Laying on my under the car the best I could achieve was 140 ft-lbs. Primary because I couldn't get the leverage I needed. So, I placed torque wrench with bar pointing at 6 o'clock and I used my feet. I was able to lock my arms on the driver's side suspension and then I placed my bare feet on the torque wrench and pushed. The bolt moved another 20 to 30 degrees, not much and I heard the click in the torque wrench. For good measure I doubled checked and set the torque to 225 ft-lbs and repeated and heard the click again. So I got it. So now, I get to put my pieces back and start tracing through the really fun stuff. I fried an ignition module and I have known good one and I'm setting a 42 code. So I get the fun task of verifying signals. I'm lucky I have an oscope and multimeter at my disposal, should help along in the process.
