- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Or if the balancer is loose and walking out..
Rick
Rick
crank sensor install
- Thread starter wbzautocustomiz
- Start date
I don't know about the cover. It could be. I was thinking about getting some 1/8th spacer if I have to. That is all that should be required to get the interrupter into correct position.
EDIT:
I'm also going to test the crank signal when I get my car back together.
I guess a couple of washers would work if that's the problem. Just make sure the bracket stays rigid and isn't in a bind when tightened down. If that thing breaks while you're going down the road, your next ride will be a rollback. Also make sure it is firmly located above the dowel pin that locates the timing cover.
That is another possibly. If that were the case, shouldn't I see some play in the balancer if I try and wiggle it. This is getting fun.
I can do that pretty easy as well.
Where is this pin located?
TurboTdr3.8
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
Sorry by C3I, I meant an ignition module fault which is 42.
So, I pulled the serpentine belt off and guess what, the balancer moves back and forth. Either the bolt has loosened or there is something else going on. Since I have Precision SLIC and the fan still on the crank I will need to pull my IC to make things easier. This is a labor of love. So initially my car stalled and wouldn't start. Then once I got it home, it appeared that the ignition module was the most likely culprit. I had melted. I had it tested and it was no good. So got another ignition module, a known good one, and the vehicle still didn't start. So I replaced the crank sensor and I noticed that the balancer and interrupter blades weren't penetrating into the sensor as far as they should. I was able to start it though and it immediately set a 42 code. Anyway, I decided to still start at the balancer and make sure it wasn't walking out on me as someone suggested. Well as soon as I looked at the interrupted blades I knew the balancer had moved. Because the blades were penetrating much further into the ridges of the crank sensor. So back to the beginning of this post, I took the serpentine belt off and I was able to shift the balancer by hand. Hopefully I just have to tighten a bolt and that is fixed. Then I have to work my way through way I'm setting a 42 code. Fun, fun.
Thanks, I was wondering how to keep the crank from spinning. I rented a torque wrench from Autozone and bought a 28mm socket. Now I have the final piece information I need.
I either don't have a good enough set of vice grips, is there another way to tighten it or should I find a better pair of vice grips? Since this bolt walked out on me, I want to make sure I get it torqued correctly without damning anything else.
The pliers don't have to take the same amount of load as the pull handle does. Since the flex plate has such a large radius the mechanical advantage is pretty great.
Just clamp the vice-grips good and square and let them lay flat against the PS of the block.
Just clamp the vice-grips good and square and let them lay flat against the PS of the block.
Sorry what is the PS of the block? When I clamp the vise grips on the first time and start tightening, they hit my crossover pipe. Aggressive Performance has a tool to place on the flywheel to keep it from turning, so I might have this covered. After thinking about this last night, I'm not so sure I can actually reach the desired torque. I'm not saying I'm weak, that is definitely not the case but it seems that it will take more than what I have to torque that sucker. We'll see. I also need to pick-up a deep well 28mm socket. I bought a "shallow" well 28mm with a 3" extension. Even with that I don't have the clearance when coming in through the top to tighten it. So I have the front end of the car on jack stands, but I'm thinking that it is probably not a good idea to lay under the vehicle and try tightening this bolt. 219 ft-lbs is an a lot of force.
If this was the only issue with the vehicle I would have it towed and done at Aggressive. I'm going to have some electrical issues to sort out once I get this back together and that is why I'm not having a shop do it. I would have to have it towed there and towed back.
I'm sorry, I really ended up hijacking this. I initially thought I had an issue with my crank sensor. As it turns out my balancer was loose. I rented a 250 ft-lbs torque wrench from Autozone. Bought a 3" extension for the 28mm socket I bought from Autozone to tighten the balancer bolt which is spec'ed at 219 ft-lbs of torque. Initially I was having a tough time tightening this, because the crank would spin when I tried to tighten. So I was told to use a pair of vice grips on the flywheel and that didn't work for me. My car isn't hoisted, the front end on jack stands. I borrowed a tool from Aggressive to put on the flywheel to keep it from spinning and locking the flywheel in place. The problem with this tool is that someone would have to hold it in place. So I decided not to use this tool for safety reasons, not my own, and instead I used my 4' pri-bar. It fit perfectly between the teeth of the flywheel and laid perfect against the starter. Now that I had this part of the puzzled solved. Next up was how to get the torque to 219 ft-lbs. Laying on my under the car the best I could achieve was 140 ft-lbs. Primary because I couldn't get the leverage I needed. So, I placed torque wrench with bar pointing at 6 o'clock and I used my feet. I was able to lock my arms on the driver's side suspension and then I placed my bare feet on the torque wrench and pushed. The bolt moved another 20 to 30 degrees, not much and I heard the click in the torque wrench. For good measure I doubled checked and set the torque to 225 ft-lbs and repeated and heard the click again. So I got it. So now, I get to put my pieces back and start tracing through the really fun stuff. I fried an ignition module and I have known good one and I'm setting a 42 code. So I get the fun task of verifying signals. I'm lucky I have an oscope and multimeter at my disposal, should help along in the process.
