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Crankshaft Comparison

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That was a "fair assessment" 5 years ago, but is not the case today.

Various companies are importing forged Buick V-6 cranks, and rarely do we find any issue with the quality or machining.

We have installed well over 100 of the China forged cranks and never had one that needed major machining, and recently they are a drop-in piece, but like ANY aftermarket part it must be checked out properly before installation.

Some of our engines with China cranks have produced up to 900 HP and we have yet to experience or hear of or see any crank structural failure?

Any forged crank is light-years ahead of the cast piece in strength and durability.
Nick which of the Chinese pieces have you had good luck with recently as stated ? Drop in? Still haven't received your email either.
 
That was a "fair assessment" 5 years ago, but is not the case today.

Various companies are importing forged Buick V-6 cranks, and rarely do we find any issue with the quality or machining.

We have installed well over 100 of the China forged cranks and never had one that needed major machining, and recently they are a drop-in piece, but like ANY aftermarket part it must be checked out properly before installation.

Some of our engines with China cranks have produced up to 900 HP and we have yet to experience or hear of or see any crank structural failure?

Any forged crank is light-years ahead of the cast piece in strength and durability.

i agree with nick 100% on this ---------in the last year and a half i have built a couple dozen motors with the chinese cranks and they are all much better than any stock crank for strength-----------this is evident the minute you start to balance one---------after drilling these things for balancing you will think the stock cranks are made of wood!------------small variations do seem to be evident and my customers bring me cranks from numerous vendors and i cannot see a dimes worth of difference in any of them---------sometimes the journals vary a little more than i would like to see and fitting takes a little longer with some than others---------sometimes the bearings need to be slightly chamfered to clear the radius------------ but when you consider what we used to pay for steel cranks a decade ago these things are a bargain-------yes there is always the exception---------somebody runs tens with a stock crank------------and some people smoke like a chimney and live to 95--------but its the exception not the rule---------i have a friend that has a 10 second car that i built a motor for about 4 years ago with a stock crank-------that crank has hundreds of runs on it-----------it is a statistical outlier--------he knows it and he bought a steel crank months ago because he knows sooner or later he is gonna need it...............RC
 
For the record the GN1 cranks that we sell come in at 43 lbs.

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I know someone on the board that had some cranks made with the help and input of a few engine builders from the board and his cranks are top notch, made of 4340 forged steel with several improvements over the GN1 and the eagle cranks, his units are basically a drop in without having to worry about them leaking from the rear or having them machined because of imperfections like most that are being sold in the market, his prices are great and his inventory include the stock stroke and 3.625 stroker, and get this!!, you don't have to paid $100.00 more just because you go with a stroker crank, both units sell for the same price.. :) the stroker weights in at 47 pounds with the stock stroke coming in at 45 pounds on the DOT..
 
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Well put me in the column of breaking the crank... glad to see Mike is selling cranks that don't need special flywheel or balancer now.
I'll be buying a new crank shortly, as long as I can salvage the motor. If not I have the stock motor to put back in and live with the lower H/P
 
Well I have to throw my 2 cents in here as Iv'e had 3 Eagle and 1 BA crank and had to turn every damn one of them to get them right. The tolerances on the journals were all over the place. I just picked up my new Eagle crank that had .0005 tapper on all the journals. Turned it 10/10 to get it spot on. The BA crank was the worst of all them !!
 
I tore down an engine with a BA crank in it. The rod bearings were wearing at the ends. The journals were hour glass shaped.
The cranks Dave Husek sells are top notch. Building a 4.1 stage 2 with one and it measured out perfect.
 
I know someone on the board that had some cranks made with the help and input of a few engine builders from the board and his cranks are top notch, made of 4340 forged steel with several improvements over the GN1 and the eagle cranks, his units are basically a drop in without having to worry about them leaking from the rear or having them machined because of imperfections like most that are being sold in the market, his prices are great and his inventory include the stock stroke and 3.625 stroker, and get this!!, you don't have to paid $100.00 more just because you go with a stroker crank, both units sell for the same price.. :) the stroker weights in at 47 pounds with the stock stroke coming in at 45 pounds on the DOT..
Who are you referring to?
 
Well I have to throw my 2 cents in here as Iv'e had 3 Eagle and 1 BA crank and had to turn every damn one of them to get them right. The tolerances on the journals were all over the place. I just picked up my new Eagle crank that had .0005 tapper on all the journals. Turned it 10/10 to get it spot on. The BA crank was the worst of all them !!
What are the " BA" cranks? I am not familiar with that one.
 
Running a cat forged crank in my car internally balanced for 10yrs , on my 10 second build . K1 rods m diamond Pistons n cam from full throttle still going :)
 
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