Crankshaft rear main seal knurl

[YAKO]

I would like to know if anyone has machined the knurled pattern on the crank were the seal rides ,instead of useing a knurling tool ,why i want to know this is i need a knurl on a non knurled stroker crank and no one in my area has the tool

 

[novaderrik]

upgrade to something besides the rope seal and you don't need the knurl.

 

[mikestertwo]

upgrade to something besides the rope seal and you don't need the knurl.

+1

 

[YAKO]

If you check all the 109 after market cranks being produced at the moment they are all knurled .CAT SCAT EAGLE ,WHEN YOU SAY UP GRADE ,YES I WOULD LIKE TO UPGRADE TO A SEAL THAT WOULD FIT THE 109 BLOCK WITH KNURL MARKS ON THE 2 PIECE SEAL LIKE A BBC SEAL OR IS THERE SOMETHING I DONT UNDERSTAND LOL

 

[mikestertwo]

They do make a 2 piece neoprene seal that fits

 

[YAKO]

Now i know we are not understanding each other ,yes i know fel-pro makes a 2 piece seal for the 231 1987 block but the crank must be knurled like the stock crank all the after market are doing it now ,,,,,I WANT TO HAVE THE SERRATED ANGLED LINES CUT WITH A LATHE,CAN IT BE DONE

 

[YAKO]

Do a search all the 231 need a knurl the stage 11 use a bbc seal that has a fine knurl built on the seal

 

[DR BOOST]

this will never end....some people want the lines, some people remove them. fwiw, i have both a knurled one and a unknurled one, and neither leak. If the chinese cranks were modeled after a stock crank, then i guess that explains the knurling.

 

[Mike E]

You don't want to machine those lines in. That will only create recessed areas. Knurling creates high and low spots by diplacing the metal. Any industrial type machine shop should have the knurling rolls. An automotive machine shop might not.

Where are you located? I've got the stuff to do it on my lathe if your close.

 

[YAKO]

MIKE,you hit the nail on the head,100% right..will contact

 

[m233roller]

Bob, Meanmike is right you need it knurled with a knurling wheel NOT machine cut. I know this gets beat to death but ever since I built my new engine and had mine knurled NO LEAKY!!!

 

[YAKO]

MIKE ,Thanks for the input ,i have tried to find someone in my area that can knurl my crank ,the closest one is a 6 hour drive,i hate to ship as i have had to many damaged parts in shipping if i knew what knurler to buy i would buy it my self and ask a local machine shop (if it would fit his lathe) to knurl my crank ,does this make sense....lost in canada

 

[Chris Hogeland]

upgrade to something besides the rope seal and you don't need the knurl.

That's its I never have A problem with the smooth Cranks.

 

[Chris Hogeland]

upgrade to something besides the rope seal and you don't need the knurl.

That's its I never have A problem with the smooth Cranks. And if you don't knurl it right it will chew up the seal.

 

[YAKO]

O-NO....not again...LOL

 

[YAKO]

When you say up grade from a cord seal just what kind of a seal are you useing ,i am using a 2 piece felpro but i think there are different rubbers?????

 

[J-B Racing]

When you say up grade from a cord seal just what kind of a seal are you useing ,i am using a 2 piece felpro but i think there are different rubbers?????

Bob,
If Mike can do something for you.. We can arrange the shipping problem. I do not think that the Rope idea will solve your problem. You need the Grooves on the Crank. We will have figured something out by the time we get your Car here.

 

[YAKO]

Thanks joe.

 

[Nick Micale]

this will never end....some people want the lines, some people remove them. fwiw, i have both a knurled one and a unknurled one, and neither leak.......

You are so right!

People hear about a "problem", and never follow through to see if it is real, or just something just not done properly?

The first Eagle cranks had no knurl, and the ones we built were never a problem.

We actually built a 109 block with the first Eagle crank, and never did it leak with hundreds of passes in the 9's and 10's.

Many other Eagle cranks we did never leaked either?