Crappy night at the track


V6 on steroids
Jan 10, 2007
A follow up to my original post...

Figured tonight I'd head to the track, reduce some fuel (falls on it's face at the line) and see if I couldn't perhaps do a little better than before.

Not this time.

First run out was 12.90 at 105.59 mph. Poor 2.02 60 ft. No spinning off the line. All I did before I made this initial run was change the 1st gear fuel setting on the powerlogger (I have the TT 5.7 chip and the latest version of the powerlogger) and change 1st gear fueling from the default 128 to 126.

Next try was to reduce fuel down to 124 on the second parameter. Lined up at the tree. Clicked off a 13.25 at 105.58 mph with a 2.37 60 ft. I don't know what the hell happened here.

Anyways back to the pits, dropped the WOT gear down to 127 from 128, lined up at the tree. now the damn thing won't hold boost at the line for some reason a.k.a. I brake boost to 10 psi at the tree and the rear brakes can't hold it so it pushes thru the tree. Yes I do have a working line lock and was using it all night. only managed to squeak out a 13.24 at 105.22 mph on a ****ty 2.32 60 ft.

At first I thought maybe the brakes not being able to hold meant I was making a little more power than before, but the trap speed proved me wrong.

Ok so now I decide to drop the tire psi in the M/T ET drag radials from 17 down to 15 hoping for better traction. Well all be darned if I didn't run a 13.11 at...wait...104 mph....:confused: And with a 2.13 60 ft. Damn.

Ok so it's an 85 degree day, I decide to give the car a 1 hr cool down and watch. Some of the others weren't running so well, then it cooled off some and the times started getting better. So after an hr. it's all nice and cool and I go to make another pass, thinking maybe the trap speed will pick up and maybe the e.t. will lower, nope, still in the 105 mph range, only managed to belt out a 13.16 on yet another craptastic 2.19 60 ft. :mad:

Now if you want to know, my best pass last summer was 12.61 at 109 on a 2.00 60 ft. So why it's worse now, gets me. I didn't see any crax in the headers, but can you always see crax in the headers with the naked eye? I checked my powerlogger files but it seems (to me) that I'm still running pig rich on launch albeit pulling fuel on 1st gear only and WOT all gears. I have the alky knob set at 6 like I've been told to do, and I've not messed with the pac box at all, Razor said leave the damn thing alone, so the alky turns on initially at 7 psi and on full at 12 psi.

I know my converter is probably really holding me back, but I've read where people made their D5's work with the turbo I have. Engine was rebuilt not by me but someone before Richie Kibler had it, I'm almost sure the valve springs are right. It's not doing any valve float that I can tell.

I'm not sure where else to go from here. I guess I need to ditch the converter and get something that will stall a little higher? Because obviously my attempts at reducing fuel in attempt for better launch, as I have been told will help, have not helped at all.

But anyways it's a real disappointment. Don't think I'm going to bother going back anytime soon, not until i can get this sorted out first. It's even worse I had a co worker there taping it/taking pics. Was hoping I could have a good vid of the car pulling a good time. Well he did get my 12.90 pass but really, that's not worthy of mentioning IMO.

And then on the way home the power steering pump started making a god awful whining noise like it's dying everytime you turn a corner or apply the hydroboost. There's fluid in the reservoir albeit bubbly and somehow the **** made it's way all over the firewall, left control arm, the right side of the master cylinder, there's none on the headers probably b/c that **** was burned off.

Oh well, enough of my venting. I'll leave you with a copy of the time slips. I'll post the powerlogger files shortly.


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I feel your pain, been there done that chasing gremlins at the track. Seems like your car was making consistent power tonight though since it trapped almost the same every time. Maybe I missed it but how much boost were you running?
I was running 24-25 psi.

Here's the powerlogger runs if anyone would please care to take a look at them. At least one of them the powerlogger began recording while I was doing the burnout. :eek:

I actually made 6 passes, lost one of the time slips but it was in the low 13's at the same trap speed.


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How old are your valve springs? Have you done a compression and leakdown test?

How old are your valve springs? Have you done a compression and leakdown test?

beat me to it!:D

DO NOT ASSUME any part is GTG..
Take the springs off, and test them.
Run the tests that Pronto listed.
Smoke test the exhaust for cracks.
I don't have Powerlogger. Do you log fuel psi on it?

My Champ alums w/ the "killer" springs on them created a real dog... And, they were new. After about 25 runs, it got worse, to the point I parked it, bought some new CC 26918, tit retainers. The springs tested at 90#, or less. At 26# boost they were useless. The new springs picked up 800 rpm trap.
And don't drop the tire pressure so low in your drag radials.

Remember.... They are RADIALS, and radial rules still apply. YOu actually should have gone up in pressure from where you were.

I've never figured out why people use pressure rules in their drag radials as if they were on bial ply slicks.
Just from 60' times is why your et is up. If you get the 60ft into the 1.8-1.9 range you'd be back in the low-mid 12's.
Now, you say you can build 10psi on the footbrake @ the line.....if so, that would mean your alky would be spraying as well and thus why you would be pig rich and killing your 60'.
When my TR was bone stock, I managed a 1.9 60' with DR'S. You get that 2.30 60' down to a 1.9, and your et will be reduced by 7-8 tenths.
I would try footbraking it to only 4-5psi and see if that helps. And yes, keep the MT DR's at around 20psi.
try pulling all the fuel out of first gear, like put it at 104. thats what i had to do to get mine to spool good
Thanks for the responses.

Unsure of valve spring age, didn't do a leak down or compression test.

How does one do a "smoke test"?

I don't have the stuff needed to log fuel psi on the powerlogger.

Wasn't aware of the psi in the radios shouldn't be so low...thanks...was actually told they should be 18 psi.

What's the neg size of running drag radials too low other than premature tire wear?

I will also try turning the turn on time to 10 psi.

One other thing, how much of this can i do on the back country roads? It's 50 miles to the track and i'm not going back for a while.
Well I do try to floor it but as of yesterday it starts pushing thru the traps. I don't know why the voltage is all over the place though.
Your tps should be close to the same all the way down the track.You will not be able to floor the car when you are staging the you have a floor mat on the driver side ? Sometimes it will hold the gas pedal up.

No floor mat, but whoever had the car before me tried to reuse the worn out carpeting by gluing down tweed over it. :rolleyes:
If it's pushing through the lights check your axle seals. That drove me nuts until i pulled the drums to adjust the brakes and found the seals leaking.
I think there could be a couple issues here.
My old car "Super Junk" went 12.5 @ 104.7.
This was with the stock turbo and original 140,000 mile valve springs.
You should also be able to get the 60's in the 1.8 range as previously stated.
This can explain your MPH, but not your 60 foot.

You could disable the Alky and see if the car launches harder.
I can tell you on my old car adding a larger turbo to the combination
with the dead stock valve springs, really pushed them over the edge.
With just changing spings on a local car, they picked up several MPH.
I have some new in box Comp 980s if you need them.
looks like you recorded the burn-outs instead of the run on one of the files.
the more fuel i pulled and timing i added in first the better my 60' got.
looks too me like your not building enough rpm before you launch...its taking forever from when you mash the pedal before the maf maxes out, your boost peaks, and finally , make it to the top of first...the launch rpm is the only thing i can attribute to having all of those be off by the same amount.

what stall is the converter rated at?

i compared one of my runs side by side with yours as an example, at 10lbs of boost you would of had it floored for 3 seconds before you took off? that cant be wondering why it took soo long after you floored it for the mph to read that the cars moving...



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Also check your wheel cylinders, mine was pushing through the lights in NC at 2 lbs of boost. When I got to RC's shop I found the right rear had leaked all over the brake shoes. While there I decided to install the braided hoses while the system was opened. I didn't get a chance to go back to the track due to the rain that moved in but I can hold about 7 lbs on the street now.
Before I found the brakes leaking I was leaving at 0 boost and my 60' was 1.64 with 21 psi in my drag radials, my car ran 6.93 at 103 in the 1/8th at 22lbs of boost and 21* of timing on 93 and ALKY at a fat 10.5 a/f.

Try launching at zero with more air in your tires and see how it effects your 60'. This will keep the alky from spraying at launch. Good luck