Current lowering springs too low, which Viking Coilovers would work best?

[JKGeorge1116]

A bit of background. I have been building my Buick with the goal of being a decent all rounder with a large focus on improving the handling. Here are the mods that I have done suspension-wise.

• SC&C Street-Comp Stage 2 Plus Upper Control Arms with greaseable Delrin bushings w low clearance Nascar ball joints
• SC&C Front End Brace
• UMI Rear Shock Tower Brace
• GNX Rear Seat Brace
• Viking non adjustable shocks
• DSE 2 inch lowering springs
• Hellwig Tubular Front Sway Bar
• Hellwig Tubular Rear Sway Bar
• Lee's Power Steering Box
• 16" Enkei GNX style wheels
• F Tire Size: 245/50/16
• R Tire Size: 275/45/16
• Factory Spindles

I recently installed an older Baer 12 inch brake kit that utilizes C4 calipers, 12 inch rotors, and Baer hubs. Now the car has always sat SUPER low with the DSE springs but with adding the hub, it pushes the wheels out just enough to where the tires are hitting the passenger side fender and very close to touching on the driver side. Based on pictures of other folks with 2 inch drop, it seems like my car sits significantly lower. I did buy the DSE springs when they first came out with products for the G-Body back in 2011 and they use a different part number now so not sure if that first batch dropped the car lower than advertised.

I am looking at getting a set of Vikings Double Adjustable Coil-over kit. It looks like Viking offers two versions on their website, and Gbodyparts seems to have a third.

• Stock to 1.5" Drop: PN A224-450R
• 1.5 to 3" Drop: PN A234-350R
• 0-3": PN A204-450R (Gbodyparts)

Obviously the A204 version if it actually gives you 3 inch of range would be the best solution but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with that part number?
Otherwise For anyone running Viking coil-overs and has a similar brake setup, do you have any suggestions? 0-1.5 inches seems like it could be a bit too high but could be wrong. Ideally I'd like the car to be low but not at the expense of rubbing or bottoming out on bumps etc. Any feedback would be great.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

It's currently too low for the suspension to actually work right, especially in the back.
Drop ranges listed on kits are approximate. They may or may not do that on your particular car.
I'm not familiar with the Viking "coiloverover" kits. I thought Viking just made shocks?

The Viking kits you shared put the entire spring load (and the entire weight of the car) directly onto the rubber bushing at the top of the shock up against the frame. That's not enough. That spot in the frame isn't strong enough. The bushings will fail quickly and fall out, the shock lower washer will hammer the frame, making a racket and destroying itself, the hole will eventually deform, and you're going to end up with a collapsed front end at some point. That would be bad.

If you do coilovers on the front, you have two choices to do it right:

1) The QA1 style kits that use a conical spring that sits in the factory frame pocket (works, but limited spring rate and height choices)
2) Going to a 2.5" cylindrical spring, but this requires adding an upper shock mount and measuring the car to get the right length shock for what you want (best, but it's a weld-in): Enhance Your Car Performance with G-Body Chicane Brackets

Since you've already gone through one suspension setup and aren't happy with it, it may save you a pile of trouble and money if you stop here and take few minutes to call UMI or Ridetech or QA1 and talk to one of their folks. They'll talk you through your goals and give you some measurements you can take and then translate that into a product set.

Obviously the A204 version if it actually gives you 3 inch of range would be the best solution but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with that part number?

Stuff like this can be tricky. The kit can provide that kind of range, but to do that you're looking at a pretty long shock with a lot of travel. Depending on your car, you could end up bottoming that thing out and destroying it pretty quickly. Conversely, if you don't have enough shock travel, you'll yank the piston rod right out of the top of the unit. I know because I've done it. Just because it bolts in doesn't mean it'll work right. Measure five times, swipe credit card once.