Attitude is important. I get pissed (or don't want to get pissed, so don't think about it), and nothing changes. When I just stand up from my chair, suit up in my car work clothes and head down to the garage...progress usually gets made.
Cutting Out At ~14 PSI Boost - Suspect Fuel Pump
- Thread starter Terbro
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Attitude is important. I get pissed (or don't want to get pissed, so don't think about it), and nothing changes. When I just stand up from my chair, suit up in my car work clothes and head down to the garage...progress usually gets made.
In the attached photo, notice the hood-mounted FP gauge. This was my 4th TR (GN1 heads...miss that car!), and it came on it when I bought it. Someone sent me a link to a virtually identical gauge some months back, but I forget now who/where that post/link is. Does anyone know where to get these? The duct tape rig up is lame. Nice to have it as such full time. I remember it being over $200, but still...a nice item.
I just found this Powerlogger: http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/43931/POWERLOGGER+SCAN+TOOL+#7383.html , but noticed that it doesn't mention Windows 10 operating system. I just bought a new laptop, with Windows 10. Is there a Powerlogger that is compatible with that OS, or do I need to buy another cheap used laptop with the older OS's?
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Found the hood mounted fuel pressure gauge: http://www.buickgn.com/fuelpressuregaugekit.htm
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TurboBob ( Bob Bailey ) makes the Powerlogger and can answer any questions , but go here first http://turbobuick.com/threads/powerlogger-and-windows-10-mr-bailey.432926/ . Windows 10 is OK .
Beautiful.
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It's discussed on the turbotweak site.........
Sing it with me - frustration, frustration, frustaaaation...
(but read to the end, 'cause I discovered something with the TPS).
Wanted to confirm the integrity of the FPR diaphragm, so I take out the four allen bolts on the top of it, as well as loosen the adjustment nut, hoping to get into it. The top housing wouldn't budge. Tried to coerce it with a small screw driver and channel lock pliers (neither too hard); still no. I then just decided to take a look at the vacuum line that normally goes to the cruise control, and discovered that it was no longer capped. It was as of a week or two ago, and think that might be the "new" cause, I capped it good and went for a run.
I hit it, and for the first time, all the way through the top of 2nd gear, it performed flawlessly. 17 psi, 820 MV reading, fuel pressure rising good. So I cruise for a couple minutes to cool it down and repeat. Same exact results - perfect. I finally think I've resolved it, so I go to fuel up at the local station and head home. On the way home, I decide to do one last blast to triple confirm and just enjoy. WOT, and it fully cuts out, almost like the ignition was turned off. I wasn't watching any gauges that time.
However, after I got home, I checked the TPS setting with ignition on. At idle - 0.44. At WOT 3.98. If I put all my strength into the pedal to the floor, I was able to squeeze out a 4.02. It should be 4.45, correct? Could that be the problem?
Ideal at idle is 0.45, right? What's the solution to get it right at WOT?
(but read to the end, 'cause I discovered something with the TPS).Wanted to confirm the integrity of the FPR diaphragm, so I take out the four allen bolts on the top of it, as well as loosen the adjustment nut, hoping to get into it. The top housing wouldn't budge. Tried to coerce it with a small screw driver and channel lock pliers (neither too hard); still no. I then just decided to take a look at the vacuum line that normally goes to the cruise control, and discovered that it was no longer capped. It was as of a week or two ago, and think that might be the "new" cause, I capped it good and went for a run.
I hit it, and for the first time, all the way through the top of 2nd gear, it performed flawlessly. 17 psi, 820 MV reading, fuel pressure rising good. So I cruise for a couple minutes to cool it down and repeat. Same exact results - perfect. I finally think I've resolved it, so I go to fuel up at the local station and head home. On the way home, I decide to do one last blast to triple confirm and just enjoy. WOT, and it fully cuts out, almost like the ignition was turned off. I wasn't watching any gauges that time.
However, after I got home, I checked the TPS setting with ignition on. At idle - 0.44. At WOT 3.98. If I put all my strength into the pedal to the floor, I was able to squeeze out a 4.02. It should be 4.45, correct? Could that be the problem?
Ideal at idle is 0.45, right? What's the solution to get it right at WOT?
Sing it with me - frustration, frustration, frustaaaation...
Wanted to confirm the integrity of the FPR diaphragm, so I take out the four allen bolts on the top of it, as well as loosen the adjustment nut, hoping to get into it. The top housing wouldn't budge. Tried to coerce it with a small screw driver and channel lock pliers (neither too hard); still no. I then just decided to take a look at the vacuum line that normally goes to the cruise control, and discovered that it was no longer capped. It was as of a week or two ago, and think that might be the "new" cause, I capped it good and went for a run.
I hit it, and for the first time, all the way through the top of 2nd gear, it performed flawlessly. 17 psi, 820 MV reading, fuel pressure rising good. So I cruise for a couple minutes to cool it down and repeat. Same exact results - perfect. I finally think I've resolved it, so I go to fuel up at the local station and head home. On the way home, I decide to do one last blast to triple confirm and just enjoy. WOT, and it fully cuts out, almost like the ignition was turned off. I wasn't watching any gauges that time.
However, after I got home, I checked the TPS setting with ignition on. At idle - 0.44. At WOT 3.98. If I put all my strength into the pedal to the floor, I was able to squeeze out a 4.02. It should be 4.45, correct? Could that be the problem?
Ideal at idle is 0.45, right? What's the solution to get it right at WOT?
you can CANT ( angle ) the TPS to set the low and the high limit .. shoot for .45 idle and WOT 4.50 ish .. even 4.30 will get you enough
but more important check to insure the throttle blade is actually 100% open ..
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You might have to elongate one of the holes to get more "throw" out of it , use a rat tail file , just don't take too much . I had to on mine .
I believe in TB gods, and I think they're toying with my emotions...just for yucks.
Anyway, I rotated the TPS as far as it would go, and got 4.34 WOT. That give me a 0.66 idle, which equated to 1,400 rpms. I figured the ECM would calm it down after a bit, but then discovered the idle adjustment screw was my good friend. Got the idle right, and TPS at 0.44-0.46 Rechecked WOT TPS, and still at 4.34.
Took a peak at the TB blade and maxed it out there as you can see from the pic. Doesn't look like a full 90 degree angle to me, man. And again, that's maxed out with my hand at the TB...I'm betting it's less with the pedal.
So, went for a run to see what the new and improved TPS setting did, and...sigh - perfect again - well into 3rd gear. Only did one test, as it's dinner time.
So obviously, more runs needed, as the TB gods (or the actual car) have yet to confirm that the issue is resolved.
Thoughts on the TB blade?
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That's not a idle adjustment screw .. the IAC adjusts idle .. and you don't want the TPS to get set like that
I would say the TB blade needs adjustment .. its not fully open .. also you will then need to reset the TPS and most likely redo the IAC setting process
Right well, it's something that corrected the problem in the *short term*, at least. I understand about the IAC. Adjusting that screw at the TB, which directly lowered the rpms, *and* had my TPS drop right to where it should be was better than where it was. That said, the idle had calmed down the 2nd time I started it, which I thought it might, via the IAC. The owner of this car before me was obviously a major goof, based on many obvious things in the engine bay (mixed/matched bolts, a radiator that looked like it came from a Honda, etc.). So I wouldn't be one bit surprised if he had messed with that adjustment screw to begin with. I might have put it closer to where it should've been in the first place.
Anyway...how does one adjust the TB blade?
When you checked the WOT TB ... was the TV cable stopping the throttle from opening further .. the only mechanical stop to the TB is the arm on the side that hits the aluminum TB housing ..
better airflow and correct TPS adjustment .. check for what is causing the throttle to stop opening before the metal stop hits the TB aluminum boss on the side
I will check, examine and observe to see what's stoppin' 'er.
Just went for another drive. Did several more (3 or 4) WOT runs - so far, so good; absolutely no issues. Fuel pressure rising fine, 02 MV's in low 800's, and pulling good through the top of the gears. I think I still have the FP hotwire kit bypassed from yesterday. Don't think that's a factor (it was doing with and without it), and probably wouldn't need to hook it back up until I got into higher boost (again, currently at 17 psi).
I'm almost done for the night, but will take a look at what's stopping the TB blade to stop at WOT.
Keep at it .. you will get it to run 100% .. your chopping away at the issues and its starting to run better NICE WORK !
Actually, I think it's okay (or at least not as bad). When I first cranked it with my hand, I believe my finger pushed the throttle cable upward, causing it to hit the TV cable mounting (detent?) bracket. That's what happened the first time I tried it again, but then seeing what was happening, I nixed that action. And it then looked swing a full 90. I wasn't too optimistic about that happening with the pedal, so I propped my phone up and took a vid, and WOT'ed it from the pedal.
The phone's angle is pretty close to straight on, as you can see. I suppose ideally, if the phone is looking perfectly straight into the TB, the blade would be viewed straight on (full sliver factor), which it's not quite.
The phone's angle is pretty close to straight on, as you can see. I suppose ideally, if the phone is looking perfectly straight into the TB, the blade would be viewed straight on (full sliver factor), which it's not quite.
