Cutting Out At ~14 PSI Boost - Suspect Fuel Pump

[Terbro]

Found the (immediate) culprit - 25 amp fuse at the fuse block. I got lucky...the writing has been worn off on half of the fuses, so I just pulled the first illegal 25 amp fuse (figured it'd be a big one), and it was burnt. Borrowed the wipers fuse, and that did it...fuel pump primed and motor fired up.

Haven't driven it yet. I want to prepare for it to burn again. I'll go get more 25 amp fuses, and have them on in the car before I go anywhere.

And...just remembered the fuse for the hotwire kit is in the engine bay. Just checked it - blown.

If these fuses don't blow again...I'm almost thinking I might be starting to see the end! Which means you know what (that which I've been hoping for, for a almost a year) - BOOST BABY, BOOST!

 

[Terbro]

Welp...I've got great news: Problem is fixed, in its entirety. Replacing the fuse in the fuse block resolved that issue, and the hotwire kit is now working again after replacing its fuse.

But most importantly - what we have, is fuel proper fuel pressure rise!!!! As Tom Cruise said in the movie Taps....It's beautiful, man! FP went up according to boost just like it should.

I had to jack down the FP down (to 43 w/the line off), as it was way too high with the new fuel pump. Couldn't handle all the fuel at boost. And I still have tuning to do...sure wish I had a datalogger. I increased the boost 2.5 turns on the wastegate actuator rod, and it wants to go...but will need some tuning (cut out briefly once or twice). But all in all, I can tell it's much happier now. I think the turbotweak chip will be my friend here.

But...it just occurred to me...I just bought a laptop. What's the most popular datalogger app for Windows 10? Maybe I can learn to tune properly!

 

[Boost231]

Cutting out? How much boost? What plugs and wires? What coil? Sounds like more electrical issues.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Boost231]

Don't want to re read everything,

was voltage checked at the pump before dropping the tank?

What about under boost voltage?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Terbro]

Cutting out? How much boost? What plugs and wires? What coil? Sounds like more electrical issues.

Right, but this cutting out is very different than before. It's sudden and only for a moment, more like a hiccup. I think you might be on to something with the plugs...I might check the gap. I get the "feeling" that something can't take the high boost. Or, there's still too much fuel.

So far, the sequence was: fixed the problems, went for a run, cut out, realized that fuel pressure was too high (at 14 psi boost). Lowered fuel pressure to 43 w/line off. Significant improvement...cut out far less (smaller hiccup).

2.5 turns on wastegate actuator rod: bigger hiccups again.

Will answer plugs and wires question. I believe it has stock coil. Well, I don't know - stock looking. Most likely aftermarket.

What do you recommend plugs gap should be?

 

[Terbro]

was voltage checked at the pump before dropping the tank?

What about under boost voltage?

No.

 

[Boost231]

I'm guessing you had a intermittent voltage issue to the pump that showed it face when changing to the new one.

Did you check the hotwire fuse before the new pump?



Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Terbro]

I'm guessing you had a intermittent voltage issue to the pump that showed it face when changing to the new one.

Did you check the hotwire fuse before the new pump?

Just went for another run, and it cut out more than earlier today...more than just a hiccup - more like before. Low 02 MV reading on Scanmaster was 632! So I need to resolve this issue quick. Thankfully, I shut it down quick. I took the FP gauge off, but because I saw it rising beautifully earlier today, I'll assume that problem is resolved, and that's not the issue.

No, I did not check the hotwire pump before the new fuse, but the pump wouldn't have run. The HW fuse blew when I touched the wire to the bumper...I'm betting. When the HW fuse was blown, I only heard a click at the rear of the car (either the HW kit or the pump). It would've done the same with the old pump.

So, I'll let it cool down and check the plug gaps. What should they be gapped at?

 

[Boost231]

I would put the fuel pressure gauge back on it. I'm going to guess you'll see it fall off again.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Boost231]

Also lower the boost as much as possible before you hurt it.

 

[Boost231]

Plug gaps are one of those things, some run small gaps some large. It's going to be up to you but start around .032

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[silver/black]

Welp...I believe I found the problem. Nick never installed the DW fuel pump. Looks like he never opened the tank (see pic...9 months and <500 miles put on it in fair weather only since he's had it). It's got a Walbro 255 lph (F20000169) pump in it. This is a technical post, so I won't leave too much negative feedback on Nick here, but there will be a whopper in the Feedback forum at some point (but look for that feedback post as it will include him putting in some other un-rebuilt transmission, that had no 2nd gear, when he was supposed to rebuild mine...to name just one of many other complaints). And now this...he didn't put in the DW300 pump!

So - back to the solution: I've got a local performance shop that has an AEM 50-1000 320 lph (same flow as the DW) for $125 in stock. He tells me it's the same style as the DW...will drop right in. Anyone have any reason I shouldn't use that? The guy tells me most of these FP's are rebranded from Walbro anyway. Update: I just called AEM tech support, and he says that pump is designed for gasoline. He gave me the E85 equivalent (different internals, to tolerate E85 better), which is 50-1200...just in case anyone wanted to buy that pump.

I'll call around and see if anyone has the DW pump in stock...otherwise just order it online.

PS. What do we think about that sock? Dirty? Normal?

I have sat back and watched long enough..."if Nick said he put it in he did" wake the fuk up!! he didn't as you can see. He claimed to install my posi unit..charged me..maybe didn't think I would take off the diff cover...kept my parts and charged me!!! WTF. that is 1 example of the BS he perpetrated on me. so wake up turbo community. when you spend that kind of money you deserve quality service and TRUTHFUL service. maybe it's because we live a ways away he thinks he can burn us.?? search my tread kirbans flex intake...I have the email where he is blatantly lying...
I am so tired of anyone with an issue, the constant reply is send it to Nick, I wish I hadn't. For those of you that got good service, consider yourself lucky...
to the OP, I am out, good luck to you

 

[Boost231]

Thanks for the helpful info you contributed silver/black...

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Terbro]

It is very tempting to complain, and I might squeak one out briefly on this thread, but it's too easy to get out of hand, so I *constantly* bite my tongue. Nick is guilty of serious misconduct, but that's a different thread. And it's not to whine - I'm only interested in my fellow TR Community members. I wish people had spoken up...I wish I had known... (I've now had 3 people PM me with similar experiences as a result of this thread).

On that note, I just found something else, which looks to be a contributor to my issues. Three of the plug wire boots were only sitting on top of the plugs. Of course...high hopes when going for the next run after correcting, and...yes and no. As I said, I think it was a contributor. WOT more power, smoother, but then fell flat, like the ignition was turned off. No hiccup, no hesitating style cutting out as before. And now looking at 02 MV's and it's running rich. 840's. Could it now be pigging out with too much fuel, and that's causing it to fall flat?

I then wanted to see what the 02 MV's looked liked under 90% throttle. So I did a 90% throttle run, and it pulled very hard, smooth (~15 psi I think), and I kept my eye on the MV's the whole time. They were steady around 835-840.

Could I possibly have the opposite problem now...too much fuel?

Oh, and plug wires are Accel 8mm. Plugs are NKG UR5. Pulled one, and it was gapped at 0.038. Plug wires were touching, so I rerouted a couple to improve that as well (when I discovered the 3 that weren't clamped to the plugs). One of the boots had been arcing a lot, as you can see. That was one that was sitting on top of the plug.

What are your thoughts on my plug wires? Are those sufficient?

 

[Terbro]

I would put the fuel pressure gauge back on it. I'm going to guess you'll see it fall off again.

Was thinking the same thing. And then that last 90% throttle run...seeing solid 840's, but probably still a good idea. Why not...need to know.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Plug gap is way to big. Tighten it to .025".

 

[Boost231]

I would put some new plug wires on for sure. I also like the spark plug boot heat sleeves for added protection.

It's not going to be rich from changing the pump if the base pressure is the same and return isn't a issue. More to it then that but not needed to get into i.


Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[turbo89]

I have sat back and watched long enough..."if Nick said he put it in he did" wake the fuk up!! he didn't as you can see. He claimed to install my posi unit..charged me..maybe didn't think I would take off the diff cover...kept my parts and charged me!!! WTF. that is 1 example of the BS he perpetrated on me. so wake up turbo community. when you spend that kind of money you deserve quality service and TRUTHFUL service. maybe it's because we live a ways away he thinks he can burn us.?? search my tread kirbans flex intake...I have the email where he is blatantly lying...
I am so tired of anyone with an issue, the constant reply is send it to Nick, I wish I hadn't. For those of you that got good service, consider yourself lucky...
to the OP, I am out, good luck to you

I feel for ya ... it happens ... but now you know better ... that's why I say "KARMA is a BITCH !! "

 

[Terbro]

I'm now of course cautious when reporting updates and results. Therefore, the following is preliminary only: Today, I re-gapped the plugs as suggested to 0.025 (all of them were right at 0.038). One was cracked - unknown as to whether I did it trying to get it off (replaced with a new one of the same type). Plug wire routing was funky (several plug wires touching each other, wires resting on valve covers, etc.), so I spent time and re-routed them so that none were touching (hopefully) and none were contacting the motor or other significant metal parts.

Went for a run...had a problem - too cold (snow flurries and ~33 degrees) and too much power for the Nitto DR's. After some cruising around and warming of the tires, I was able to get a couple WOT hooks through 1st and 2nd.

The cutting out, falling flat, and major power loss of before didn't show up this time. Smooth all the way through the power band in 1st. I noticed right at the top end of the rpm range at 2nd, it stopped pulling. Repeated that scenario twice with same "feel" results. Then I went home. Time for dinner.

Low 02 MV reading on the 1st run on the Scanmaster was 838. 2nd was 781. Haven't hooked up the FP gauge yet again, and I will to confirm, but it's looking like that issue is still resolved with the new pump, based on those data...and of course the performance. Again, boost was (I think) ~17 psi.

So, don't know if the ultra cold weather is a contributor...but I might be making progress.

Another periodic thanks to all those who continue to chime in with constructive input. Lots of respect for the TR Community as a whole.

 

[turbo89]

I'm now of course cautious when reporting updates and results. Therefore, the following is preliminary only: Today, I re-gapped the plugs as suggested to 0.025 (all of them were right at 0.038). One was cracked - unknown as to whether I did it trying to get it off (replaced with a new one of the same type). Plug wire routing was funky (several plug wires touching each other, wires resting on valve covers, etc.), so I spent time and re-routed them so that none were touching (hopefully) and none were contacting the motor or other significant metal parts.

Went for a run...had a problem - too cold (snow flurries and ~33 degrees) and too much power for the Nitto DR's. After some cruising around and warming of the tires, I was able to get a couple WOT hooks through 1st and 2nd.

The cutting out, falling flat, and major power loss of before didn't show up this time. Smooth all the way through the power band in 1st. I noticed right at the top end of the rpm range at 2nd, it stopped pulling. Repeated that scenario twice with same "feel" results. Then I went home. Time for dinner.

Low 02 MV reading on the 1st run on the Scanmaster was 838. 2nd was 781. Haven't hooked up the FP gauge yet again, and I will to confirm, but it's looking like that issue is still resolved with the new pump, based on those data...and of course the performance. Again, boost was (I think) ~17 psi.

So, don't know if the ultra cold weather is a contributor...but I might be making progress.

Another periodic thanks to all those who continue to chime in with constructive input. Lots of respect for the TR Community as a whole.

Glad its running better .... keep at it .. you'll get her dialed in ..