Cutting Out At ~14 PSI Boost - Suspect Fuel Pump

[joeb1300]

I put 10 on a engine that was blown up because it was stolen. Rebuilt for e 85 hardly a few parts

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[turbo89]

I put 10 on a engine that was blown up because it was stolen. Rebuilt for e 85 hardly a few parts

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Do us a favor .. stay out of the thread .. your not helping the OP nor anyone else with your ignorance ... lets get back on target here and try to help this guy out

 

[joeb1300]

Your right i will and I'm not smart enough to get it to run like it should.

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[captrob]

How about pressure dropping because there is a return line.

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The regulator valve is spring loaded closed, so as long as the pressure is below the set point it should be relatively sealed. If the regulator valve was not sealing, it would be hard to make pressure(bypassing all the time). If the diaphragm was torn, then pressure would not rise with boost and probably have fuel out the vacuum port. If there is no fuel in the vacuum port, then check pressure rise by running the pump...add a set pressure to the port(mitey vac)...and see if fuel pressure rises. If it does, then regulator is fine. If it doesn't, then either the pump is not up to task, or regulator is bypassing to much fuel out the return.

You need to systematically rule out parts so that you can find the offending item/items.

If pressure drops immediately after shutdown and a properly working regulator, then it can only be leaking injector(wet cylinder), a split fuel pump hose, or bad pump check valve.


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[joeb1300]

So in my case i had to much fuel pressure in the beginning couldn't bring it down enough. I added a new stainless 1/2 inch main line for larger supply of fuel then pressure would not go under 50 psi. So I used the original main as a return and this brought my pressure down. So is my fuel regulator bad? This is a brand new accufab ?

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[joeb1300]

So in my case i had to much fuel pressure in the beginning couldn't bring it down enough. I added a new stainless 1/2 inch main line for larger supply of fuel then pressure would not go under 50 psi. So I used the original main as a return and this brought my pressure down. So is my fuel regulator bad? This is a brand new accufab ?

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Im sorry my pressure went up after i changed to a bugger pump.

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[Chuck Leeper]

Do you even have a GN or a TA

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Not sure how you got involved in this thread, as I've not read every post. However, if you inserted your post to put your problem up for help, I'd suggest you start your own thread.
If this is not the case, the back/forth needs to stop.
120 replies, and Terbro is still fishing for a fix....

TIA,

 

[captrob]

So in my case i had to much fuel pressure in the beginning couldn't bring it down enough. I added a new stainless 1/2 inch main line for larger supply of fuel then pressure would not go under 50 psi. So I used the original main as a return and this brought my pressure down. So is my fuel regulator bad? This is a brand new accufab ?

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Larger pump flows more than the engine needs at lower rpm = more bypassed fuel. If the return line is too small, then it can't bypass enough and the rail pressure cannot be controlled below that point.

Large pump with bigger return lines; or double pump with higher rpm or boost switch on the second pump : two ways to get to the same goal...more fuel at wot.


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[joeb1300]

Alright...it's time I get to the bottom of this! I had my motor built by Nick Micale and he told me he installed (and hot wired) a DW300 or 301 (apparently they're the same) fuel pump at the time. But I'm having a very consistent issue with not being able to run above about 14 psi boost.

What happens perfectly *very consistently*, is right about 14 psi boost, it cuts out. Running E85, and initially only having 60 lb injectors, I thought that might be it. So I upgrade to 80 lb injectors, and a new TurboTweek chip to match, designed for up to 25 psi. No change at all...still basically a near totally loss of power at 14 psi. It really feels like it's not getting enough fuel.

I know, I should probably have a scantool, but I do not. If I have a run where I stay below 14 psi, it feels *perfect*, and generates great, smooth power, and the Scanmaster reads around 800-820 O2 MVs. However, if I stayed in it once or twice briefly for a couple seconds through the power loss, and the MVs were dangerously low. As I remember I saw a high 600 and a low 700 once. So now, not only there's no reason to, I let off the moment it happens.

So...in talking with Nick, he thought maybe it was an insufficient ground to the fuel pump. I added a 10-guage ground to the stock ground and it had no effect at all.

At this point, while I can see that the fuel tank straps appear to be in a different location than originally, suggesting the tank was dropped, I'm thinking that he made a mistake and didn't put in a DW300/301 FP.

But that's why I'm writing this thread. Because I'd like some feedback on other possibilities - before I buy another DW301 FP and drop the tank, assuming I need to install one. There's a hell of a lot more power in this motor asking to be unleashed with another 5-6 psi. Well, of course I know I could go higher than that with E85, but at this point, I plan on keeping the car for years, and don't want to stress the motor that much. I'm sure I'll be happy with 21 psi for a while.

So...any suggestions? Again - it runs perfect up until 14 psi, and then - it's flat on its butt. I took it to an 1/8th mile track and raced my buddy last Fall in his stock 2015 Camaro SS (426 hp), and had him by 1-2 car lengths all 4 times we raced. I had it set for ~15 psi, and when it cut out and went flat, I'd back off to ~90% throttle, and the car would take off again.

Last thought: I believe Nick installed a new stock style fuel filter too. Are those okay flow-wise for E85?

Ok before you buy anything contact me ill give you whatever you need if i have it. Fuel lines fittings translators data logger or Scan master Casper caps ill give it to you free.

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[Pronto]

Im sorry my pressure went up after i changed to a bugger pump.

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You needed a larger RETURN line.

 

[turbo89]

You needed a larger RETURN line.

NO HE DIDNT !!! that's the problem its not the RETURN LINE !!!! its the regulator !

 

[Pronto]

After 7 pages lets try this. Although it's for Hondas, much of the information is exactly the same for us. It explains how both styles work and how to do some diagnosis.

 

[Boost231]

Wow, went on a cruise for a week and you still haven't fixed the problem.

I'll just be here eating my popcorn for further entertainment.

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[turbo89]

Wow, went on a cruise for a week and you still haven't fixed the problem.

I'll just be here eating my popcorn for further entertainment.

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Just think if it left the shop "CORRECT" we wouldn't have any entertainment

 

[Reggie West]

I have known Nick for a long time now and I trust his advice on anything Buick.

If he did the work and it is not doing what it is supposed to go back to him and let him figure it out. At the end of the day, this is business.

You pay for a service and a result and you should get it. I have never known Nick to screw over anyone. What is worse, you have no tools to check anything and you cant solve this problem without them. Maybe there is something else going on here we all dont know of but either you want the problem solved or you dont.

We all know how much money these cars take to build but as you have said it is not doing what it is supposed to. What are you going to do about it Terbro?

 

[Boost231]

Just think if it left the shop "CORRECT" we wouldn't have any entertainment

At this point who's to say it didnt. Seems like a intermittent problem and maybe it didn't occur when nick had the car.

Then again maybe it did we don't know. We need to have the OP to test the regulator still with pressure to the port and or swap it with a known good unit and if that doesn't fix it it's time to drop the tank

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[Reggie West]

No one has ruled out wasetgate control working correctly either.

 

[turbo89]

At this point who's to say it didnt. Seems like a intermittent problem and maybe it didn't occur when nick had the car.

Then again maybe it did we don't know. We need to have the OP to test the regulator still with pressure to the port and or swap it with a known good unit and if that doesn't fix it it's time to drop the tank

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I appreciate your diplomacy .. However If you read the OP's posts ( CAREFULLY) ... a lot becomes very very apparent . I am not throwing anyone under the bus nor do I care to get into that drama .

I can tell you this I FULLY AND 100% can say the OP has been very transparent and has posted to a very high level factual information that I think makes things cut and dry .. and I am willing to help out in any way I can to help him resolve the issue ...

It's not hard to figure this out at all .. it's simple step by step diagnoses that is so routine with these cars its not even funny .

What we don't need is guys muddying up the thread with their own car's problems and having this guy go off on tangents ..

To the OP .. if you need tools or scan equipment or whatever .. let me know .. I'll send it to you .. if you were closer I would help you drop the tank and take a peek
( HINT HINT ) .. I know what its like to not have spare time and wanting to make the most efficient use of what free time you have.

Let us know how we can help

 

[Terbro]

Good Lordy...the website failed to send emails to let me know there were new posts over the last 2-3 days. There's been a whole lot happenin'!

Some folks are can be rude, but I'll ignore that stuff. But that's the nature of the "Internet tough guy".

Anyway - an update: I'm waiting for my new fuel tank to arrive before I drop the tank. And no...no need to tell me the fuel tank isn't the problem. I know that. It's just that it looks like crap, has a big dent in it, so while I'm dropping it, mind as well swap in a new one. The best price I found incidentally was from 1A Auto. $165 shipped with new straps. Canadian made.

The new tank will arrive just about the time my son and I are heading out on a short trip for a couple days for Spring Break, so I probably won't have time to drop the tank for about a week.

 

[Terbro]

I appreciate your diplomacy .. However If you read the OP's posts ( CAREFULLY) ... a lot becomes very very apparent . I am not throwing anyone under the bus nor do I care to get into that drama .

I can tell you this I FULLY AND 100% can say the OP has been very transparent and has posted to a very high level factual information that I think makes things cut and dry .. and I am willing to help out in any way I can to help him resolve the issue ...

It's not hard to figure this out at all .. it's simple step by step diagnoses that is so routine with these cars its not even funny .

What we don't need is guys muddying up the thread with their own car's problems and having this guy go off on tangents ..

To the OP .. if you need tools or scan equipment or whatever .. let me know .. I'll send it to you .. if you were closer I would help you drop the tank and take a peek
( HINT HINT ) .. I know what its like to not have spare time and wanting to make the most efficient use of what free time you have.

Let us know how we can help

Thank you very much turbo89. This positivity is very refreshing. I'll say that the majority of posters have been very helpful, and then someone comes in with an attitude out of nowhere, says something rude or insulting and, while I trying stay positive, being human I have an ego...and it just throws the whole spirit of things down. So peeps like you are great to bring it back up...thank you.

I've had some good input related to the FPR, and so it sounds like it's probably not it, with the pressure testing I've done. I think I'll take off the upper housing just to check and confirm that the diaphragm's integrity is good (just because it looks so easy to do), then drop the tank.

If that doesn't reveal anything, I will take you up on your offer...greatly appreciated. Terry