Decided to pull the engine. PICS

[696]

If you don't mind please post some pics of the fitting. I'm converting to E-85 and may have to make the same thing.

 

[toomanymodz]

If you don't mind please post some pics of the fitting. I'm converting to E-85 and may have to make the same thing.

Here is the fitting. Basically you cut off the saginaw end of the return line (which is the most restrictive portion of the line) then attach this adapter. It provides a -6 male for which you can attach a hose-end to.
Holley Performance Products -6 AN Male to 1/4" Tubing Adapter AT165064ERL

 

[toomanymodz]

Well guess what...Jeg's called me today and said that the Earl's fitting is a new item and wont see production for probably a few months. Back to the drawing board.

I contacted Tim at Classic Tube and he can make me a return line. So that's my new plan. I'm going to photograph the original return line and specify where I need it lengthened to reach the fuel pressure regulator. This was needed since my intake is much taller than stock. He said he can make one for around a hundred bucks. It helped that Tim is a Buick guy and knew exactly what I was talking about.

 

[big reazon]

Man you car looks great all go with some show

 

[BuickMike]

Very cool stuff. Thanks for sharing. Makes my build look ghetto lol.

 

[toomanymodz]

Latest pics. We said heck with waiting for the return line fittings and put the line into a catch can for now. Fired up the engine. It started almost immediately. Had to adjust one rocker arm on the drivers side, but other than that, she purrrs like a kitten. Couldn't run it long though because the catch can would quickly fill up with gas. The IAC's, TPS and base fuel all look good.




Denny's nitrous-ready driveshaft with 1350 series U-joints. Metco safety loop:


CK Performance transmission with cast aluminum cover. Trans temp sensor too. Note how I have the dump facing the wrong way. Not sure why but it only fits that way:


New stainless Pypes exhaust:

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Just run a temp line into the gas tank fill pipe! Then you can run it longer while you get things sorted out. Hate to see you have a fire if the hose falls out of your catch can or it fills up.

With your dump pipe, you can always cut it and use a band clamp on it to position it wherever you want.

 

[toomanymodz]

I ordered a steel female saginaw fitting from Classic Tube, and an Earl's -4 male weld fitting from Summit. I plan to have Miller Race Cars weld the two fittings together for me. That should solve the return line issue.

The dump pipe is connected to the down pipe using a band clamp. The problem is that if I rotate it 180 degrees, the 4-bolt flange is at a horrible angle and no way will bolt up to the exhaust flange. It's as though the dump pipe was manufactured wrong. Like whoever made it put the dump part on the wrong side of the pipe. Not sure if I should contact RJC about it. Everything is new, so it's doubtful that my exhaust or downpipe are at fault. Nothing looks bent or out of place.

 

[toomanymodz]

Ok, the steel saginaw fitting just arrived from Classic Tube. The guys at Miller Race Cars welded it to a -4 Earl's weld fitting.


I knew this little oven was useful for something:


Finished product:

 

[SuperSix]

Toaster oven - cool.

 

[Heg87t]

Ok, the steel saginaw fitting just arrived from Classic Tube. The guys at Miller Race Cars welded it to a -4 Earl's weld fitting.
View attachment 151706

Finished product:
View attachment 151708

I am confused. Are you still using the stock Saginaw fittiing on the return line with this fitting then -4 to the regulator?

 

[toomanymodz]

Correct. I didn't alter the lines on the frame. This way I can easily put the factory engine back in if I wanted to.

Here is a pic of the braided lines connecting to the stock lines. I need to tighten the fittings a little more as I see a drop of fuel there.


Here is the latest and final pic of the engine. You can see the downpipe has turned a light gold from the heat. I drove the car about 8 miles yesterday. I can't believe how tight Dusty's non-lockup converter is. I won't miss the lockup at all. The idle is smooth, which surprised me since it's a 218/212 roller. This combo is very drivable. The only thing remaining is to hook up the lines to the oil cooler.

 

[gs462]

I doubt I will be done with my GN by then - and the T is too ugly to take to a show.

It's no UGLIER than the driver Marko, so Roll that bitch up town.

 

[Heg87t]

Correct. I didn't alter the lines on the frame. This way I can easily put the factory engine back in if I wanted to.

Here is a pic of the braided lines connecting to the stock lines. I need to tighten the fittings a little more as I see a drop of fuel there.

Thanks for the pics. So you did not improve the restriction just adapted AN lines right?
Is that why you choose -4 instead of -6?

 

[toomanymodz]

A line only flows as good as it's smallest restriction. The factory saginaw ends are very small and a -4 line is much larger in size. -6 wouldn't of provided any additional flow. I wanted a -4 return line simply because it was easier to bend and route down to the frame. I'm planning on using the Kenne-Bell boost-a-pump, which cranks up the volts to the pump to 17.5v. This greatly increases the output of the Walbro pump. It only does it under boost (it comes with a 5psi switch). With this setup, the factory return line is adequate, even with the restriction. I'll start another thread documenting the BAP installation.

 

[SuperSix]

It's no UGLIER than the driver Marko, so Roll that bitch up town.

You weren't saying that in BG after one too many.. Perv.

 

[turbofabricator]

You can use a steel 1/4" compression fitting with a 1/8" NPT on the other end and then screw what ever fitting you choose to use. I personally TIG the fitting on, but pipe thread works fine. Here is a picture of it: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/350143-finally-runs.html This will eliminate the TINY restriction in the return line. A 106% increase in cross sectional area. OR........you can use the vent line as the return line.

 

[Boost231]

looks good man, just make sure you put a zip tie on the hose going to the compressor side of the turbo please...

 

[toomanymodz]

Today I installed the RJC boost controller. I've zip tied those lines for sure.

Important note to everybody:
Note the breathers in the photos. They are Moroso (i think Mr Gasket might also make these) and they don't 'breathe' very well at all. If you take one and put it to your mouth and blow (don't let the wife see you doing this, haha), you will see what I mean. They are very restrictive. I've ran those before on big chevy's, but never on a boosted Buick. I'm fairly certain that this is the reason why I now have oil all over the tranny bell housing. The crankcase got pressurized (since these breathers basically held in all the pressure) and blew the rear manifold seal. This is still speculation since I haven't ripped the manifold off yet, but this is the most likely scenario that I can think of. I tested the PCV and it doesn't allow air to enter, only vacuum. But still, to be safe, I may install the RJC check valve anyways, just to rule it out next time. I'm buying the K&N style breathers. If you do the same test by blowing into them, you'll see how well they can vent air.

 

[dele1981]

thats real nice good job