DIY Progressive controller

mschaffer66

New Member
Joined
May 10, 2007
Has anyone out there ever thought of, or built their own?

I've saw a lot of DIY non-progressive ideas. Basically a pump, a solenoid, and a pressure switch.

It doesn't seem like a very hard thing to accomplish at all. I just am not sure if its worth the time to figure it out, the trip to radio shack, and the build time considering you can get something proven for a few hundred dollars.

I was kind of thinking about building one just for a nice winter project while I'm on restrictions after a surgery.

Any thoughts?
 
I've used the autospeed.com.au kit (21.00 dollars) for the past 4yrs. It only has a single adjustment for turn on, but it's worked fine for my setup. I tune my ecu for the mixtures and timing I want so it's not that vital IMO to have tunable meth inj setup.
 
I've just designed a PWM circuit for a tach project. Have built it and am now calibrating it. Anyway the design principles would be similar, with a bigger transistor (or FET) to drive the pump and the addition of a boost sensor and error compensation circuit. Might spend $50 for parts, so I don't know that you would save a lot.
 
Our controller has over 50 in parts and takes 4 hours to build start to finish. This is buying parts in quantity. Let alone the figuring stuff out as the controller has to match the pump. Example frequency and current drive. Once this is done you need to figure out the curve for your Buick. Once this is done you still need the hard parts tank, lines, fittings, nozzle, wiring, etc.. and the pump is a whole other issue.

Anything can be done cheaper.. where you draw a line in the sand is the issue on how cheap you want to go. Technically an alky kit can be made for less than 30 bucks using a hobbs switch and your existing ww tank.

The trial and error process is where the issue is at. The cost of a blown head gasket figuring stuff out is a price. Sometimes its not just the HG which can lead to a lot of headaches in the rebuild. My controller took 13 revisions before it went to market in 2003.. and few changes have been made as the testing has been done. This is why I havent jumped on the bandwagon to make changes to something that doesnt give issues. :wink:

I cannot speak of the Labonte, Snow, CM, or any other controller. Or their curving which can lead to drivability issues. But I guess there is always a tradeoff going with cheaper.

Good luck on your project.
 
There's a chip out there that does PWM on it that you can use the output to run into a high current MOSFET or 2.

Do a google search for it. Took me a while to find it.

It's about a buck fiddy. :p

0-5 volt input too, adjustable frequencies etc. plenty of bells and whistles.

Boy the gloom and doom theories regarding a linear light dimmer circuit is amazing. :biggrin:

Probably more blown headgaskets with kits than DIY since some o' dem DIY folks is smart. ;)

I don't run the big honking sureflo pump yet on the car so I only use it to pump water out of basements, but it works just fine with my controller at 12 volts.

Don't PM me or ask for info.

It might end up replacing a billion parts in some kit. :biggrin:

It's on the net however for another PWM motor purpose, a general search should find it.

Whole PWM controller should run about $40 less wire and connectors.

It ain't rocket science.

I hear golf carts now use PWM for their high current motors, and have forward and reverse too. :cool:
 
Funny how old those links are. The 59 pump is now 89, the 8.00 denatured is now 14.00. And the 2687 pump will die in methanol currently..

Get one of those vellman kits for 25.00 and a hobbs switch.. cheap controller.
 
Nice chip and it's under a buck. :biggrin:

I get denatured for about $8 a gallon in 5 gallon cans. :)

Methanol is $6 a gallon around here, which isn't around here actually a bit of a drive.

Hey you could do a whole DIY progressive install for under $200. :cool:

Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa ;)
 
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