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Dual feeding directs.... or modified direct drum with extra clutches?

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We dual feed because it works. No other reason.;)
 
I use the Sonnax O-ring valves without any issue. I don't see any need for bigger unless perhaps you have some bore leakage which when wet testing the pump on the bench can be pretty interesting :).

Ive used these on some also. If you could get others to bench air test the PR system more would be using them.
 
Im not an expert and love reading threads like this. I have a set way that i build 200s... i certainly do not have as many under my belt as most that have posted here (maybe 10-12) I like my line pressure to be between 240-260 at max TV. I used to run more pressure (290ish) but had pretty harsh part throttle shifts and seemed to break hard parts a lot more often. (it was an out of the box art carr kit) Now with the lower pressure i use the dual feeding. Every time I've pulled a tranny the directs have looked very nice when dual fed. For me it works and makes sense. Having less line pressure but still having the firm shifts while not stressing the pump and other internals as much is the main advantage. I am by no means saying anybody else here is wrong. I have been in a GN with a tranny built by Brian and thought it shifted very well. Im glad to see a thread like this where people are sharing info that may have otherwise been a "trade secret" Thanks guys.:D
 
Ever thought about how much power you lose from trying to build near 300psi in the pump?? (not to mention breaking parts)

Food for Thought, when trying to get all the FREE hp you can, you don't need to waste it on super high pump pressures..


I have my own ideas about the perfect 200 too, Just like Russ...lol
 
V6 I stated this before.If just pulling the tv cable all the way out at idle can drop rpms 200 in some cases imagine with psi output at wot increased to over 300 psi.This is why pump rotors and slides break,besides misaligned converters and pumps or bad installation techniques.I have never had a 2004r transmission returned to me for a broken rotor or slide in the last 5 years,or a broken anchor pin.In most cases i use the oversize 101 steels and 6 thin frictions(the new raybestos style),and a .250 pressure plate.
 
Ever thought about how much power you lose from trying to build near 300psi in the pump?? (not to mention breaking parts)

Food for Thought, when trying to get all the FREE hp you can, you don't need to waste it on super high pump pressures..

I agree. Back in the early 90's I was running 300+ pressures in my trans trying to cure flaring problems on the 2-3 shift. I didn't have any failures but when I disassembled the pump for inspection after a few thousand miles I found a lot of excessive wear and galling on the rotor dog ears and vane slots, vanes, and inner surface of the pump slide. That's when I decided to go dual feed. Lowered pump pressures back to near stock with no pump issues since. :)
 
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