Dumb ? Of The Day... Front Shock Removal?

[~JM~]

Planned on changing my shocks this week-end.

Stuff happened & I didn't have as much time as I had initially planned. Of course the nut on the front shock studs is frozen in place. I've applied some penetrating oil & letting it soak over night. I'll try some vice-grips on the shock shaft & hope that they will prevent it from turning.

If that doesn't work, what other method should I try?

I don't have access to a cutting torch. Do have a saw-z-all, but I wonder how effective it would be, if I can even get it in there.

Thanks.

 

[dynoman]

Are you talking about the top of the shock , the end of the shaft ? If so there should be flats on it to put a wrench on to hold it while installing & removing . Also I have used a propane torch to heat nuts & bolts up enough to loosen them .

 

[~JM~]

Yes. I finally noticed the flats when I sprayed them with oil.

I will give that a try.

Thanks.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

A long cold chisel and hammer will split the nut in short order.

 

[Nick Micale]

Planned on changing my shocks this week-end.

Stuff happened & I didn't have as much time as I had initially planned. Of course the nut on the front shock studs is frozen in place. I've applied some penetrating oil & letting it soak over night. I'll try some vice-grips on the shock shaft & hope that they will prevent it from turning.......Thanks.

You are on the right track!

Put the vice-grips on the shaft in the spring as it will keep it from turning.

The nut should be accessible with a 9/16" socket on a long extension.

 

[~JM~]

Well... The car kicked my @SS again today!

I've probably owned near 100 or more internal combustion powered pieces of equipment, minibikes, go-karts, motorcycles, cars, trucks, Jeeps, 2-stroke, 4-stroke, etc, throughout my life & I've wrenched on all of them to some degree or another. Even know a bit about jet engine powered combustion turbines.

My '87 TR is the most difficult vehicle to work on that I've ever owned. Aside from the mix of metric & American nuts & bolts, there is the limited access & the 1/8th to a 1/4 wrench turn fun to contend with. I'm beginning to believe that my car is truly a demon bitch from hell whose sole purpose on this earth is to extract as much blood & money from me as possible!

Projects usually begin simple enough, then it heads South as soon as I'm deep enough into it that the car is disabled & immobile.

Changing out shocks... How hard can it be? The penetrating oil performed & the old front shocks were removed easily enough. The new shock was put into place & began to tighten the bottom bolts when "SNAP" the sheet steel nut retainer broke. Wasn't even applying much torque when it let loose. So now I have removed three of those nut retainers to be replaced, but the bolt in the broken one will not come out.

Moved on to the rear shocks. Outboard bolt on drivers side top shock mount is seized up. Can't figure out how to get a wrench up & around to the nut to hold it well enough to break it loose. Started to loose my patience at this point & decided to call it quits for today.

Advice, Voodoo dolls, Exorcism Rituals, whatever, all are welcome.

 

[Turbo Keith]

I feel your pain brother , I'm no mechanic by no stretch but I swear its like our cars like to screw with us . I upgraded my wheel cylinders a while back and thought I would never get those on but after a few ( more than few ) Beers and alot of cussing it all worked out . She will come around when she wants to . Good Luck Keith

 

[~JM~]

Thanks. I'm at that "difficult" age.

No longer able to roll around under a car on cold concrete & have yet to acquire a lift.

Still have no idea on how to handle the bolt that is stuck in the nut retainer.

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Oh I remember the job changing the front shocks on mine. Got so bad I cut one of the old shocks off. I also had a problem with one of the lower nut retainers. I had to wedge a large screwdriver or something to stop the retainer from spinning in order for the bolt to come out. It was not as easy as I made it sound.

I've done lots of stuff to the GN where I cursed at myself that I can't believe this simple job became so difficult.

Helps to come back at it the next day.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[~JM~]

Hmmm... Apparently I'm not the Lone Stranger: https://turbobuick.com/threads/help-i-snapped-lower-front-shock-frame-clip-nut.449430/#post-3743079

Interesting angle I hadn't thought of. Sounds like the thread pattern of the OEM shock bolts & the Bilstien replacement bolts are not the same.

https://turbobuick.com/threads/bilstien-shocks.336657/#post-2669014

 

[~JM~]

...I also had a problem with one of the lower nut retainers. I had to wedge a large screwdriver or something to stop the retainer from spinning in order for the bolt to come out. It was not as easy as I made it sound....

Spent about an hour with several variations of screwdrivers, small pry bar, pliers, to grab that thing. Sounds like grinding the bolt head off may be required.

 

[Buckshot G/N]

JM ..you hit the shaft and nut on spot when you mention you're at that difficult AGE. when I hit 55 it was slow mode.
At age 60 plus I don't bother, find that younger T/B Guru to play twister. Happy Mechanically

 

[Chuck Leeper]

At age 60 plus I don't bother, find that younger T/B Guru to play twister. Happy Mechanically

A mere child! Try too close to 80!! My age constantly reminds me "U R too damned old to work everyday!" {I work at a custom car shop.} I'm lucky, as I have a really nice young lady working there. She helps me up off the floor!
As for the mismatched bolt stuff, I have Vikings on my 86T. The bolts in the pkge are 5/16...My trusty Unibit/20V Dewalt, and that issue is solved.
As for the clips, they're gone too. Your idea to grind the head off works. A cut w/ the "Zizz wheel" allows the pieces to be removed, once the head is gone.
The nogo on the upper nut: I use an impact, and wring that sumbitch off! I also have a good supply of "customized" metric wrenches.
TB's a major PITA?? Try a Vette. especially, a newer model.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

 

[chasmat2316]

to get the stud at the top of the front shock off just take a deep socket with a long extension at least 24 inches and bending back & forth you will be able to break the top stud off in less than a minute. thats how shocks were changed when these cars were new! just lean on the extension till it bends the stud!

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I'm beginning to believe that my car is truly a demon bitch from hell whose sole purpose on this earth is to extract as much blood & money from me as possible!

This is it!!!
This is the quote of the month!

 

[~JM~]

I was so disgusted yesterday that I called the car Christine when I shut off the lights.

 

[~JM~]

Just a little update for whomever the next guy may be.

These replacement A-Frame nuts do not fit.



The sheet metal nut is too long. Perhaps the sizing has changed. I ordered & waited for two packages to arrive (Four nuts/bolts total) but they won't line up & clear the shock body at the same time.

 

[Turbo Keith]

Hey JM , Did you get those shocks on ? The reason I ask is I bought some rear Bilstein off the site and installed them with not so much trouble and I just ordered new ones for the front , 24-009492 is the part # , I believe . It looks as if they may be a Bitch to get off . Any advice would help , Thanks Keith

 

[~JM~]

Hey JM , Did you get those shocks on ? The reason I ask is I bought some rear Bilstein off the site and installed them with not so much trouble and I just ordered new ones for the front , 24-009492 is the part # , I believe . It looks as if they may be a Bitch to get off . Any advice would help , Thanks Keith

I did. The front ones are a bit more difficult. I ended up using a ratcheting box end wrench on the top side nut while preventing the shock shaft from rotating with either a small wrench on the flats, or an allen wrench. If I recall correctly, the old shocks had flats at the top & I think the Bilsteins required the allen wrench. The bottom side is where you can screw yourself. Do NOT use the new bolts that come with the Bilsteins. Use the OEM / original bolts. If you compare the threads you will see why. Apply a light dab of anti-seize to the original bolts & snug them up. You may have to use a floor jack to push the bottom of the shock up into the lower A-arm. Don't go crazy tightening the bolts. The OEM folded steel nut retainer isn't very strong. Good luck.

PS. The problem that I usually have with my car, is that most everything that has been messed with in the past, has been over-tightened.

 

[Turbo Keith]

Thanks JM for the reply , I just ordered them today and from Tire Rack for like 67$ each shipped and no tax .