EGR Removal - With Pics

[Coelacanth]

I must've searched nearly every EGR-related topic on this site to find out how to remove the EGR assembly and although I found lots of discussion, I couldn't find any with pictures, which makes the job a whole lot easier...so I'll document the procedure for anyone else who's considering this task.

The EGR solenoid with round black plastic cap isn't easy to get at until you remove the rest of the assembly. First, disconnect the one hose that plugs into the T fitting on the firewall. Then, there are 2 nuts holding on the EGR block to the right of the solenoid; a 10mm on the front, on the right side of the valve cover, and a 13mm behind it on the manifold. I got at the one in behind with a socket U-joint and an extension. Once it's loose, disconnect the connector at the back of the block, and the spark plug wire holder that's attached to the block.

Once the block and attached hoses are deflected, you can get at the single 13mm nut holding on the EGR solenoid with an open-ended wrench.

After you've removed the solenoid, disconnect the hose that runs to the round black & white check valve (to the left of the solenoid).

My question for those who've done this already, do you simply reattach a hose running from the check valve on the left to the now-open T fitting on the firewall, install the EGR block-off plate and call 'er done?

 

[Coelacanth]

EGR assembly after removal:

EGR port cleaned up, ready to install block-off plate:

 

[TurboBob]

I......

My question for those who've done this already, do you simply reattach a hose running from the check valve on the left to the now-open T fitting on the firewall, install the EGR block-off plate and call 'er done?

Yes, presuming the chip you are running is set up for it. Otherwise you will set a trouble code.

Note, EGR block-off plates are tough to seal. A vacuum leak there will run poorly.

Bob

 

[Coelacanth]

Thanks Bob, that's exactly what I've read several times on here. Apparently they have more problems sealing if the plates are less thick, this G-Body Parts plate is really thick, though. I also read that the hardest part to seal is at the top where there's no mounting bolt. I think maybe some of the sealing problems are people not applying the RTV sealant properly, or not following the directions.

I put a bead of RTV around the circle stand-off on the block-off plate and around the perimeter of the plate, above the mounting bolt. Waited 15 minutes for it to start to tack, then bolted it on nice and tight. I'll wait 24 hours before starting up the car and checking for leaks, though I wanted to back the car out of the garage and give it a wash.

I cleaned up the mounting surface thoroughly with a razor blade and some rubbing alcohol:

Installed the EGR block-off plate and ran a hose from the check-valve on the left to the T-fitting on the firewall:

Pic of EGR removed & blocked off:

 

[TurboBob]

it may not stay sealed, you have a nut/stud way at one end, and backpressure and boost pushing up on the plate.

its ugly, but I used the original hold-down bracket to keep my block-off from leaking.

Bob

 

[Coelacanth]

I read that too, and kept that OEM hold-down in case it's needed. I read that some people bent the 2 arms a bit in a vise so it will apply more pressure...I'll do that if necessary.

 

[DR BOOST]

i block the passages with epoxy and then put the block off plate on for a finished look

 

[Coelacanth]

My concern for blocking off the passages with epoxy is that it could break off and get into the motor. I suppose the best solution is to have the passages welded shut, but that requires removing the whole manifold. Lots of people report having no leak issues with the block-off plates, so I'm hoping I'll be in that category.

 

[earlbrown]

Lots of people report having no leak issues with the block-off plates, so I'm hoping I'll be in that category.

Lots of people don't leak test their engines too.


Those plates really need two small fasteners up by the top hole to fortify the clamping pressure. Those block off plates are more like a reed than a cap.

When I did mine I went with brass NPT plugs. I like how it turned out.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/780097-post8.html

 

[Coelacanth]

That does look nice, Earl, I read that article a year ago. Not everybody is gonna pull off their manifold to block off EGR, though. Some people have tighter budgets than others and simply can't spare no expense.

 

[earlbrown]

I did it that way because it cost me $1.

but I guarantee it will never leak too.


Making chips right there can be down with the intake on the car you just have to take precautions. Pulling the plenum will allow to cover up the EGR hole that corresponds with the top rectangular hole. Stuff a rag in there, then blow it out with compressed air, and you're good to go. Or blow through it the whole time so chips can't fall in there in the first place.


The other hole goes to exhaust bowls. Pop the crossover pipe off and bust the engine off. Bye bye debris.

 

[thomas cory]

When removing EGR, does it set off any service lights on the dashboard?

 

[Coelacanth]

It shouldn't...unless you're still using the stock chip. I'm using TurboTweak chips (previously an AXiS chip but currently a TT 5.7 chip) and those are programmed to ignore the EGR...so removing it had no ill effects...just a nicer, tidier engine bay.

 

[thomas cory]

It shouldn't...unless you're still using the stock chip. I'm using TurboTweak chips (previously an AXiS chip but currently a TT 5.7 chip) and those are programmed to ignore the EGR...so removing it had no ill effects...just a nicer, tidier engine bay.

Great to know , I have the TT5.7 installed. Going to order the block off plate thanks

 

[phil_jordan]

Nice thread. Thanks for sharing!