Electrical fuel pressure gauge question
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Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
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Caspers has the adapter.
Bryan
Bryan
I just got an Autometer gauge, too. The adaptor you need is -4AN female to connect to the rail (gotta remove the schrader valve) X 1/8" NPT female. Be sure to Teflon tape the thread on the Autometer Pressure transducer or it WILL leak. Also, take care not to over-torque the transducer onto the adaptor (ask me why!). I'm glad the adaptor I originally got was brass!
I didn't buy another transducer. I figured it best to use the one that came with the gauge. The 107133 adaptor will work for you.
I'll tell you that I bought one similar (I can't remember for sure where I got it). Anyway, it's brass with a -4AN female x 1/8" NPT female very similar to the Casper's piece. The adaptor I got is very cheesy (I didn't buy from Casper's). It worked when I originally installed it, but I had to take it apart to verify FP recently. When I unscrewed the transducer, the threads on the adaptor came out with the transducer. Complete trash.
I had bought two other pieces from Summit that I thought would work. One was just too long & looked like crap so I trashed it. The other looks really good (it's an Earl's fitting), but I've got to get a -4AN plug or cap to go on the end of it. Hopefully later this afternoon I'll be able to post up with my solution that looks half-way decent. I've seen some pretty "innovative" looking setups on the end of TB fuel rails, but none that I've really liked yet.
Her's what i did.
1) Pulled the schrader out of the rail (there was still fuel pressure in the line, so i used some absorbent cloths to soak up the fuel).
2) i got this fitting - SRP part no 192-4 or 192-4BLK. They didnt have the black one in stock where i went, so i just used one that i already had that was red and blue. It's an adaptor that is -4AN female on one end, -4AN male on the other end, and a female 1/8" NPT port off the side.
3) Screwed the -4AN female onto the end of the rail and used a 9/16" wrench to snug it. No tape required on -AN fittings. Left it so that the NPT port was between 1 and 2 o'clock.
4) PTFE taped the male threads of my pressure transducer and CAREFULLY screwed into the 1/8" NPT port of the adaptor. Snugged it down with a 7/8" wrench. Just enough that it won't leak.
5) Got myself an SRP part no 3752 (probably available in black if you put BLK on the end of the part #, but not sure. I can't find it in the catalog i got in the store). It's a -4AN cap and screwed it onto the end of the adaptor and snugged it down. No tape on AN fittings.
6) Key on and check for fuel leaks. Store away the schrader and original brass cap and voila! Done. Wish the fittinhs were black, but i'll change 'em out later.
Pretty easy. I hope I dont tick off any moderators, but i got this stuff at Smiley's Racing Products in The Woodlands, TX. They were EXTREMELY helpful and let me try all the fittings before I paid for them, and even loaned me a few wraps of PTFE tape for the transducer. I will be a repeat customer as i like to be able to actually see what I'm buying sometimes. They have a few locations in TX and one in OK. Anyway, hope this helps someone.
1) Pulled the schrader out of the rail (there was still fuel pressure in the line, so i used some absorbent cloths to soak up the fuel).
2) i got this fitting - SRP part no 192-4 or 192-4BLK. They didnt have the black one in stock where i went, so i just used one that i already had that was red and blue. It's an adaptor that is -4AN female on one end, -4AN male on the other end, and a female 1/8" NPT port off the side.
3) Screwed the -4AN female onto the end of the rail and used a 9/16" wrench to snug it. No tape required on -AN fittings. Left it so that the NPT port was between 1 and 2 o'clock.
4) PTFE taped the male threads of my pressure transducer and CAREFULLY screwed into the 1/8" NPT port of the adaptor. Snugged it down with a 7/8" wrench. Just enough that it won't leak.
5) Got myself an SRP part no 3752 (probably available in black if you put BLK on the end of the part #, but not sure. I can't find it in the catalog i got in the store). It's a -4AN cap and screwed it onto the end of the adaptor and snugged it down. No tape on AN fittings.
6) Key on and check for fuel leaks. Store away the schrader and original brass cap and voila! Done. Wish the fittinhs were black, but i'll change 'em out later.
Pretty easy. I hope I dont tick off any moderators, but i got this stuff at Smiley's Racing Products in The Woodlands, TX. They were EXTREMELY helpful and let me try all the fittings before I paid for them, and even loaned me a few wraps of PTFE tape for the transducer. I will be a repeat customer as i like to be able to actually see what I'm buying sometimes. They have a few locations in TX and one in OK. Anyway, hope this helps someone.
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Question? You know the fuel rail gauges we use has a tendancy to fail due to vibration. Is it possible for the transducer to meet the same fate if connected directly to the hard-line or would it be more prudent to use a short pc of braided flex and relocate to the fender or firewall to avoid said damage? Seriously, not trying to be facecious, as I'm considering a hood mount.
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Isolating the sender surly won't hurt. It would also prolly help with smoothing the trace signal.
RL
RL
1KWIKSIX
Well-Known Member
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- Sep 29, 2007
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Just be sure to use only teflon lined stainless braided hose for any situations where you're using gasoline thru it! Once you measure up how long you want it.....you can go to any industrial hose shop and they'll make this line up for you.
