Electronic Boost CTL's

[aperrego]

Originally posted by azgn
I know this will irritate a lot of people....but here goes

there is absolutely no reason for a boost controller unless you are a full on race car looking for consistent launch, etc

the stock wastegate will do the job (even without the solenoid)

these things, for the most part, fall into the same catagory as blow off valves

but....its your $$$$

Sue me I like bells and whistles.. BTW?How bout those Mease Inttr1s?

 

[Dan K]

I just ordered a Profec B Spec II from B&E.
I like the thought of it having the boost feedback. Almost like a set it and forget it, even with different atmospheric conditions.
In my mind it means that's one less thing I need to worry about at the track.

 

[salvageV6]

My argument was a solenoid is a solenoid.

Rarely do the stockers go bad and I doubt the "speed" of any aftermarket solenoid is any better, solenoid vs. solenoid.

Volume wise perhaps yes, but rarely is that an issue until you are very very fast.

Controllers do have more features and the feedback but brings added complexity to a rather basic wastegate system as is the stocker.

My BSTC may be "dumb" but I can set it within a pound which is within accuracy of my gauge anyway.

A normally set up system should not have creep or overshoot.

Those problems will complicate any type of wastegate system.

My point is you should not need to regulate within .1 pound and not need to spend money on a boost control system THAT complicated unless you WANT to.

I also wonder if the MAP sensor and the aftermarket controllers can make a well regulated boost control system with the stock wastegate arm?

Or is a racegate type system always used?

There is more to the system than just the controller and solenoid regardless of whether it's chip and solenoid or feedback controller and solenoid.

 

[EMcNeice]

AZGN,

I read your post on the electronic boost controllers.. before i blow my money on a BSTC, whats your reccomendation for boost control for a street car? I currently have the in car setup and it sucks. I have the underhood valve as loose as possible, and the in car valve off, the wastegate actuator is very loose, it still pushes 19psi.. can't get it to go down! I've tried just a bleed valve but it would need to adjust it every other day cuz it was very inconsistent. Whats your reccomendation? Thanks

 

[Sinful6]

Originally posted by salvageV6
My argument was a solenoid is a solenoid.

Rarely do the stockers go bad and I doubt the "speed" of any aftermarket solenoid is any better, solenoid vs. solenoid.

Volume wise perhaps yes, but rarely is that an issue until you are very very fast.

Controllers do have more features and the feedback but brings added complexity to a rather basic wastegate system as is the stocker.

My BSTC may be "dumb" but I can set it within a pound which is within accuracy of my gauge anyway.

A normally set up system should not have creep or overshoot.

Those problems will complicate any type of wastegate system.

My point is you should not need to regulate within .1 pound and not need to spend money on a boost control system THAT complicated unless you WANT to.

I also wonder if the MAP sensor and the aftermarket controllers can make a well regulated boost control system with the stock wastegate arm?

Or is a racegate type system always used?

There is more to the system than just the controller and solenoid regardless of whether it's chip and solenoid or feedback controller and solenoid.

Yes, it will work with the stock wastegate actuator. I have a twinturbo Supra which uses wastegate actuators that are much less substantial than the GN ones with no problems at all. The entire "electronic boost controllers only work with external wastegates" is an old wive's tale. The entire e-01 system consists of: Display, controller(like a TV remote), solenoid, pressure sensor, main unit(mounted out of sight, all other things plug into this)and the hoses to run it. Most others aren't so advanced, liek the profec B mentioned above consists of the unit, solenoid/pressure sensor(combined unit), and that's it.

Originally posted by azgn
I know this will irritate a lot of people....but here goes

there is absolutely no reason for a boost controller unless you are a full on race car looking for consistent launch, etc

the stock wastegate will do the job (even without the solenoid)

these things, for the most part, fall into the same catagory as blow off valves

but....its your $$$$

Yes, it can "get the job done", but why settle for that? You can do it much more reliably, and better(quicker spool, boost reduction in different gears, even boost vs rpm graphing!).

If you're going to be complacent with that then 87 octane will "get the job done" too...

 

[G McCall]

Originally posted by EMcNeice
AZGN,

I read your post on the electronic boost controllers.. before i blow my money on a BSTC, whats your reccomendation for boost control for a street car? I currently have the in car setup and it sucks. I have the underhood valve as loose as possible, and the in car valve off, the wastegate actuator is very loose, it still pushes 19psi.. can't get it to go down! I've tried just a bleed valve but it would need to adjust it every other day cuz it was very inconsistent. Whats your reccomendation? Thanks

EM,
Any stock type wastegate that will not go lower than 19lbs PSI probably has a high pressure spring. I think stock is 13 lbs. You may have a 16lb spring or ? I had this same problem years ago.

 

[EMcNeice]

Where would i find a different spring to change it with? A hardware store?

Originally posted by G McCall
EM,
Any stock type wastegate that will not go lower than 19lbs PSI probably has a high pressure spring. I think stock is 13 lbs. You may have a 16lb spring or ? I had this same problem years ago.

 

[G McCall]

I think you will have to buy the whole wastegate.
Check with one of the Venders.
However the main reason to go to a higher spring was boost creep. With your listed combo, a stock 13 lb spring may be to weak. I would try a 16lb spring wastegate.
Another way to test wastegate control is to connect a turbo bleed hose straight to the wastegate to check out wastegate control. Do not go through Y split plastic connector. This bypasses the stock solenoid (and y plastic connector) incase its malfuctining. Your boost would be controlled now by spring control in wastegate only. Chip will not control boost now but this was to test parts out. Hook it all back up after your testing.

Also, You may have to check the archives here and investigate opening the puck hole in the exaust housing.

 

[azgn]

I agree with Mr McCall on the HD actuator.....on my HD, I am hard pressed to get boost under 18 and if I do, the gate just blows open (not enough tension to stay shut against my turbo)

I just loop the compressor and wastegate and control my boost with the WG rod.....rock steady....then again, I do not change my boost settings very much once dialed in (1/2 turn either way usually) since I can control my fuel curve with the ME-R

I do not believe this is inferior in any way to the fancy electronic units unless you are a hard core bracket racer and use the controller to launch off boost (I launch off RPM.....)

several very fast cars use this technique and put a grainger valve in line set at their launch boost....this helps spoolup somewhat (I know of at least 2 TSM 9sec cars doing this.....)