You can type here any text you want

Engine assembly Q's

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Turborookie83

New Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
25
Assembling a motor and have the crank in and torqued. I cant turn the thing at all! I used plastiguage (i know be easy on me guys) to just check on the clearances and they all spec out OK. BTW it has a rope style rear seal..I was just worried if this is common or if there is a definite problem? The piston worries are because when checking some ring gaps i noticed i could move the piston a good bit side to side (being pin sides) in the bore but not up and down when the piston is completely in the bore. It's over .030 now and i had the hyperutectic pistons pressed on the rods. Can these pistons bend out of shape when the pin is pressed through the rod? I don't assemble too many motors..especially on my own so not too sure what the "norm" is for fitments on this stuff.
Thanks
Marc
 
Remove the rear cap and see if it turns over. If it does, then the rope might be binding. I would HIGHLY reccommend a neoprene rear seal. Change it NOW, 'cause it ALOT harder under the car, and the rope seal WILL leak. (they ALL do) If the crank doesn't turn with the rear main removed, pull the #2 cap (thrust cap) and see if the thrust bearing might be oversized, and the crank isn't. Basically, you'll have to start removing all the caps, one at a time, to see which one(s) are binding. Don't sweat plasti-gauge, it DOES work, if used correctly. Even after I use a dial bore guage, I still will "gauge" them just to have a second look. Never has led me wrong. If the pistons are hanging up in the bore, check ring gap. With Hyper pistons you will NEED to open the gap up larger than with cast or forged pistons. Read the instructions included with your pistons, and open the gap up to the high end, and even a thou or two more. I have seen some nasty things happen to hypers., due to tight ring gap. DON'T use the ring manufacturers specs, use the piston manufacturers specs.
Also, while assembling an engine, always turn the engine over after EACH and every cap is torqued. That way you will know when you have a problem, and can solve it before you move on.
PM me for my phone number if this isn't making sense.
 
first ? is

Did the crank turn free with crank ONLY in block?
Just reread your post--are you saying the rods and piston are in or not.
 
Just the crank is in right now. I know all the caps are in the right order, and it did seem to get extra tight with the rear main tightened. I will pull the rope seal and see how it does.BTW the ring gap is about .013 on the top ring, haven't really checked any others yet...too tight or am i good? There wasn't any directions with the pistons they are speed pros that were individually boxed since they were out of stock were i ordered them.
 
Back
Top