forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,845
If using a stock block, have it sonic checked to make sure all is good. After the cost of girdling a stock block, you will only have alittle more into a S2 with a China crank and rods.
Engine ?
- Thread starter 6togo
- Start date
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I am doing a complete build/restore and not pressed for time so if it takes a little longer to build due to funds thats fine. I have a big rear and big brakes frame is braced all tube adjustable CA's so far a cage might be used not sure if i want it which i know will hamper me if i go to the track! Trans will be heafty also depending on what route i go motor wise so i am trying to build a solid car and not sparing money as i go! I do agree to a point that the LS motors are really being pushed and think when you pop the hood on a TR it should be the V6 Like i said i am not opposed to the LS besides all the fab work and trying to keep A/C but i am still leaning towards the V6!
Chris
Chris
There is one alternative to the V8 and the stock block, and it's fairly inexpensive. Find a 3800 series II out of a 4th gen F body and turbo it. Parts are a little more available and less expensive but there's still some fab work involved. There's a thread in the general section of the forum about putting one in a GN and without a lot of mods he was hitting 10 seconds in the quarter right out of the box. You'd still be using a Buick V6 but it's closer in design to the Stage II engines so you get better heads and a much better block.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
- Messages
- 6,486
TurboTguy you did come off as a Dick i would hope you ask tons of questions before throwing money at your build figuring it out like you suggest i do! I slept great last night also i guess your post had that effect on me!
Chris
I did.
Glad you slept well.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
I am only "pushing" the LS option so that there will be at least one more 109 left for me.
I have gone through a "few" of these engines and have learned what they can and will take. (we've broken stock blocks when they were only running high tens due to a pump failure or just making a tuning mistake) If you do not have expert tuning skills, you MUST pay a GREAT tuner to do the tuning on a 9 sec. 109 block. AND you have to be able to understand what the car is telling you. Very little room for mistakes. It would be best to start with a 4.1 on center StageII block and have alot more strength and breathing capability with the 4" bore. By all means run a V6. That is why "I" personally bought my first GN. Making 125-135 h.p. per cylinder is alot to ask of a thin walled casting. We have a handful of folks on here doing that very thing. Ask THEM about what it REALLY cost them if they didn't do all the work (which sounds like that is your situation) then make that decision if the budget is there. (or how long it'll take you to come up with that amount) Grumpy is running 9's. (even though he cheats and has a girl drive it
) Listen carefully to him, and keep in mind he has been tuning race cars for a LONG time. Back when the ONLY way to tune was with a flashlight and a magifying glass reading spark plugs. (and a magnifying glass was high tech)
A bad tune up on a LS is gonna kill it, too.
All that I have posted is just my opinion of course and what ever route you take, I will still be happy to anwer any questions I can. Either option is doable. I think that you will need to budget closer $23K- $25K to make it SAFE and reliable, though. Cheaper if you do alot of the work. What are your mechanical abilities? Turning a wrench will save a bunch of money.
P.S.........I would be VERY concerned about YOUR safety in this kind of car without a certified chassis. Scary. Kinda like playing with whiskey, a lit cigarette and dynamite!
I have gone through a "few" of these engines and have learned what they can and will take. (we've broken stock blocks when they were only running high tens due to a pump failure or just making a tuning mistake) If you do not have expert tuning skills, you MUST pay a GREAT tuner to do the tuning on a 9 sec. 109 block. AND you have to be able to understand what the car is telling you. Very little room for mistakes. It would be best to start with a 4.1 on center StageII block and have alot more strength and breathing capability with the 4" bore. By all means run a V6. That is why "I" personally bought my first GN. Making 125-135 h.p. per cylinder is alot to ask of a thin walled casting. We have a handful of folks on here doing that very thing. Ask THEM about what it REALLY cost them if they didn't do all the work (which sounds like that is your situation) then make that decision if the budget is there. (or how long it'll take you to come up with that amount) Grumpy is running 9's. (even though he cheats and has a girl drive it ) Listen carefully to him, and keep in mind he has been tuning race cars for a LONG time. Back when the ONLY way to tune was with a flashlight and a magifying glass reading spark plugs. (and a magnifying glass was high tech) A bad tune up on a LS is gonna kill it, too.
All that I have posted is just my opinion of course and what ever route you take, I will still be happy to anwer any questions I can. Either option is doable. I think that you will need to budget closer $23K- $25K to make it SAFE and reliable, though. Cheaper if you do alot of the work. What are your mechanical abilities? Turning a wrench will save a bunch of money.
P.S.........I would be VERY concerned about YOUR safety in this kind of car without a certified chassis. Scary. Kinda like playing with whiskey, a lit cigarette and dynamite!
I appreciate your input and was not just talking about you with the LS swap and fully understand what you are saying! I have been a tech for 20+ years and i hate to say it but i enjoy wrenching on my toys more than driving them guess its my hobby even though i dont work on cars for a living anymore. I think i am going to stay with the V6 and keep on searching for a nice 153 block and if that dont turn up i may go with a TA block this was my plan from the git go! I have talked to my guy at the body/custom shop about a cage he said no problem i am just not crazy about losing the back seat access and the side bars because he said removable side bars will not cert. dont know if thats correct or not.
Chris
Chris
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
8.50 and slower a swing our bar IS legal. Street driving a car with full cage creates some interesting safety concerns, too. What happens if your head hits the "halo" bar? Padding will help, but a helmet is the best choice. If street racing (which you should NEVER...EVER do and I mean that) wear a helmet. Now days street racing will get you locked up or worse yet kill an innocent person, which YOU will have to live with everyday. Take it to the track. A 9 second car will get away from you REAL quick. A freind just had his 10.30 car go sideways INSTANTLY when he stabbed the throttle on dry pavement at 60 mph. Ran right into the car next to him...right into the other guys door. No one else was on the road and he felt safe. He has been driving 600-950 hp cars for many many years, too. Stuff happens fast at 650+ HP. The road is not prepped and a drop of antifreeze will ruin your day.
Take it to the track.
Take it to the track.
