Fastest Pump Gas / Alky Car...?
- Thread starter GNBRETT
- Start date
Pacecarta, I see you're advertising that you have done these things on stock mains and bolts. What is the story behind that? Did you have that motor before you decided you were going to tear up the track, or did you build it like that knowing you were going into the nines?
Hope to get my car to hook up, A guy that does that kind of thing said he could get it to hook without hurting the street driving, Everyone keeps saying turn the boost up as it is running 133 in the 1/4 with 20-22 psi but when you take off it lefts the front tires and as soon as it does that the rear tires spin and drops the front tires but then it goes, Just running high 1.50's 60 ft, Best run was a 10.40 at 133 93 and alky but you have to keep the alky turned way down, Hope to get it all worked out
my suspenion set-up consists of boxed upper and lower arms with rubber bushings( bolts tightened up at ride height) and a Hr parts sway bar.
The biggest thing i was fighting was the extended pinion snubber. The car would launch set the back end down then bounce of the snubber and unload the tires.
my best 60ft off the T-brake has been 1.44 my best on the foot brake is 1.51. I also use the smaller radials 255/60/15's
So if you have the pinion snubber try removing it.
One other thing is that if you have air bags holding the car up to keep it from sitting down on wide tires that can affect the weight transfer.
HTH
The biggest thing i was fighting was the extended pinion snubber. The car would launch set the back end down then bounce of the snubber and unload the tires.
my best 60ft off the T-brake has been 1.44 my best on the foot brake is 1.51. I also use the smaller radials 255/60/15's
So if you have the pinion snubber try removing it.
One other thing is that if you have air bags holding the car up to keep it from sitting down on wide tires that can affect the weight transfer.
HTH
What a success story Pacecarta! Im guessing you are making it sound way easier than it is. I never had that level of luck keeping a budget build together. I had a 109 with billet caps and girdle and felt uneasy about making such power. The billet caps after two years beat the sh*t out of the main register, that when you rotated the block over the caps fell out. I am sure the motor must have had some vibrations that got the caps to walk at some point. My 109 alky setup ran 139, but it had champions heads and decent roller cam.
Wow, great runs Paul..... I think we are somewhat close to each other, I've been playing with my GTO since BG, but now it looks like I may get called out soon!!! Great power with relatively low boost...... my runs had a bit more boost thanks to a sticky puck!!
I had a buddy run his best yesterday at Cecil, 10.68@124, 24 psi, Julio's kit, Wawa 92 pump, 61 billet turbo...very streetable car, not sure how far down the list goes or what the bump is....I told him I'd check!! He needs a bar before he runs anymore up here... the black cars with no rollbars are not too welcome at Cecil any longer.... seems they are wise to the " I don't know what it will run" story.
I had a buddy run his best yesterday at Cecil, 10.68@124, 24 psi, Julio's kit, Wawa 92 pump, 61 billet turbo...very streetable car, not sure how far down the list goes or what the bump is....I told him I'd check!! He needs a bar before he runs anymore up here... the black cars with no rollbars are not too welcome at Cecil any longer.... seems they are wise to the " I don't know what it will run" story.
pacecarta said:ive found that too , billet caps that drop right out after the nuts are taken off .
the stock caps were sound and i wasnt looking for the headaches ive seen with billet caps ...considering this was only to be a "10" second motor
My mind is blown right now. I've always thought billet caps were a must without a girdle. I have a forged eagle crank but I just don't know if i could throw the stock caps on it. Where does the problem arise with billet caps? Bad machining?
IMO - No Expert - The problem arises with "cap walk". If the billet caps get moving around they become a hammer to the crank register. Since the billet caps are a harder material it can beat up the crank register to the point the block is compromised. Do let me say there are strong arguments FOR billet caps for they are considerable stronger material than the stock caps and will not crack under comparable loads. It's really a d*m if you do, d*m if you don't kinda thing, the main point being the tune. If there are no harsh vibrations being transferred to the caps, they should not walk. I thing the best thing for a good 109 build is a forged crank and one hell of a balance job. .
I totally agree . The crank flex and harmonics will destroy the block caps. I have seen stock caps fail under a girdle due to this and in combo with the tune being totally wrong.
I think a real balancer is a major part of the harmonics reduction.
