Feeling kinda sick (paint)

[Paul Clark]

Got the car back from the painter. (black)
It's straight, but under the lights in the garage there are D.A. marks and scratches all over it.
He's already buffed it out, and I'm not sure how much CC is on it.
Can I save it, or should I just plan on parking in the shade from now on?
I'm bummed.
Thanks

 

[87we410877]

Got the car back from the painter. (black)
It's straight, but under the lights in the garage there are D.A. marks and scratches all over it.
He's already buffed it out, and I'm not sure how much CC is on it.
Can I save it, or should I just plan on parking in the shade from now on?
I'm bummed.
Thanks

Screw that if you just payed for a new paint job it shouldnt look like it needs compounding. Bring it back and see if he'll re-spray a coat of clear and re-buff it out for free. If not, take it somewhere else.

 

[Paul Clark]

He hasn't charged me yet.
Think I should get the bill first and then point out the flaws.
I removed (and am reinstalling) all the removable parts.
He did a good job straightening out the body, but everything else is way beneath what I was hoping for. Think that more clear (after "I" sand it) would help?
Any ideas on what I can expect him to charge?
Think I might be beating a dead horse here.
Darn.
Gonna go have a brew - or 12.
Thanks

 

[87we410877]

Im not an expert in paint and its hard to say what to charge here not knowing the severity of the damage and work that went into it. Good idea w/ the brews

 

[Gary Wells]

He hasn't charged me yet.
Think I should get the bill first and then point out the flaws.
I removed (and am reinstalling) all the removable parts.
He did a good job straightening out the body, but everything else is way beneath what I was hoping for. Think that more clear (after "I" sand it) would help? Any ideas on what I can expect him to charge? Think I might be beating a dead horse here. Darn. Gonna go have a brew - or 12. Thanks

----------------------------------------
I would not say anything until I got the bill. I would not reinstall any parts until everything is straightened out. I don't see any sense in painting more clear on to hide mistakes that should have been corrected in the paint. And I would nto take it anywhere else until everytihing is straightened out with the original painter/body shop. I would be bummed too, to say the least, and the 12 pack wouldn't even start to do it for me. When the 12 pack buzz wears off, you still have to deal with the paint job.

 

[Tommyg]

don't pay !!!

You're in the drivers seat on this one---not a nichel until he does it right.

 

[Larry Smith]

If your seeing DA marks in the paint, they are under the paint! You will never get rid of them without re doing the prep job and repainting. The quality of the paint job depends on the prep work underneath it. If you are actually seeing "color sanding" marks in the clear coat, the fix is to re-clear the car and do a better job of color sanding. Believe me, no one uses a DA to color sand clear.
Good luck and don't let yourself get bull!%@#$ted.
Larry

 

[brian]

"Believe me, no one uses a DA to color sand clear."

We do use a DA sander to remove nibs from the paint and level it. 1200-1500 grit.
I would take it back to the paint shop, and point out those issues. That is definatly not a "high quality job".
Any painter that has any self respect, or aspirations about doing a quality job will "finish" the job correctly.
I know that is what I would do.
Good luck Paul...
Brian Hofer

 

[jdpolzin]

Paul, I just did a wet sand on my car after it was just re-painted as well. What clear did he use? Do you know what grit the ca was wet-sanded? How many coats of clear were sprayed? You need to find these things out to get your answers. I wet sanded my car to 2500 grit which makes the clear almost like glass. Then buffed it. If you can find out how thick the clear is, you can go over it with 2000 grit yourself pretty easily. This will take out any micro sized lines in the clear. Then buff it yourself or have an experienced buddy do it. Most body shops only go to 1200 grit which is ok but on a black car, it is easy to see. Also, ONLY USE MICROFIBER TOWELS to wipe the car. Using everyday rags will makes scratches. If he did not use a quality clear, you will have problems with it hazing over after being in the sun. You want to let your car cure for a while and see if it hazes in spots. Some clear do and some don't. All depends on quality. Where are you located?

 

[Paul Clark]

Thanks for the replies, guys.
Larry is right. These marks (mostly from a DA) are coming from beneath the base coat, not what's on top. Orange peel isn't the problem.
I'm going to get him to come to my place and check it out under my lights.
If we can't come to terms, I'll be calling on you guys to form a vigalante group.
jdpolzin - sent you an email.
Paul

 

[forcefed3.8's]

It sounds like he used a DA to sand the clear before he buffed. DA scratches are harder to get out than wet sand scratches. Alot of new compounds have scratch hiders in them. After a wash, or even afew days of sitting, the hiders are removed, and some scratches are back. Some new compounds even trap solvent by bridging the clear over the scratches, and when the sun warms up the surface, the solvents escape, leaving the scratch behind. Old compounds were abrasive, and removed material, while alot of newer ones are chemical, and they actually move the clear around. On black, it is doubtful that you are seeing scratches under the base, this is more common on metallics as the metallic will stand up in the scratches rather than lay down. I always have the customer bring their car back for a rebuff after afew weeks. No matter how good you are, you will miss some scratches on a complete especially on black. I like to run a foam pad and glaze over the car after it is all back together to remove any light scratches left from touching or brushing up against the car. Sounds like it needs buffed again.

 

[REGALTURBO]

It is more common to see DA scratches in metallic colors but they can appear in a black paint job as well. We have done numerous black paint jobs on GN`s and we always use a black sealer prior to painting the car. Its doubtful that the scratches are on the surface if you are wet sanding and then rebuffing those areas where you see the the scratches, and they are still there. I can`t say what type of job you got for sure not knowing the details. But one thing to be aware of and something I think alot of people don`t realize is that unless the car was stripped, you will continue to have paint defects down the road as well. Any GN we have done, we have completely stripped the car. The reason being that they were painted in lacquer. With lacquer paint, there is no chemical bond with todays urethane products. No matter what prep work you do, you will not have good adhesion with urethane over lacquer. So unless it was stripped or epoxy primed prior to any repair work, you will continue to see die back, shrinking and possible blistering or peeling somewhere along the line in various areas of the car. If the car was stripped then I`d narrow your problem down to one thing, bad prep work. But again, not knowing the details of your paint job, what you paid or what product your shop uses, I can`t really say. Good luck.

 

[Paul Clark]

Thanks to all for the helpful advice and well-wishes.
I sanded the car and buffed my butt off. Lots of hours went into it, as I wasn't real sure what I was doing.
The result was a 1st place finish today in a car show.
I'd never had the car out in direct sunlight before today. No swirls!
I'm a very happy camper.
The bonus was that my '72 Chevy pickup (that I painted myself) also won 1st place in its class. '98 Dodge Intense Blue Pearl.
Going to go buy a lottery ticket.
Thanks again, guys. I appreciate it.

 

[Red Regal T]

It's common for paint to shrink into what was underneath it or into bodywork. As it cures, it shrinks in. That's why you can see some of the imperfections. If there was bodywork, eventually it will show slightly....sanding scratches and such. After the paint has cured, normally block wet sanding on the spots showing, will get rid of the imperfections. Sometimes they come back, and sometimes they don't. If they do, lightly wet sand again. Paint takes time to fully cure and when it does, you have to fix imperfections by wet sanding.

 

[rodman99999]

Glad to hear the problem went away !