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It's experimental Matt. I don't think you'd like to pay for them though.Lots of R&D involved along with tons of research.:smile: If everything goes right it will keep more heat in the exhaust and drive the turbo really good.:biggrin:
Im sure they work I'm just not sure how the backpressure of the turbo affects them.Well I had to read up on stepped headers, but that sounds cool, and makes sense.
DoneWG gave me the idea and after sending emails back and forth for a while it's the way I decided it should go. Keeps the temps in the header longer so it hits the turbo better.
The cone idea sounds very innovative too. But how does the turbo affect the backpressure on them? I understand how they work on NA but from what I know the exhaust side PSI is higher than the intake side. So does all the exhast that exits the motor flow out evenly like a NA motor where there are pulses or does it get all jumbled up and just turn into a continuous flow of exhaust with no pulses.
If that makes any sense.
Already sent the info to Brian and he's waiting to see how it does.:biggrin: I have a feeling it will set the HA guys on edge because of how it controls the temps in the headers and how well it should make the car move.
Now on to more work. I spent most of the day in the shop doing the disc conversion on the rear and I can tell you one thing. Make sure you know how to sharpen a drill bit. I ruined 2 bits on the flange for the backing plate and had to sharpen another one so I could finish the job.
I started on the passengers side and I had to figure out what I wanted to do and how. I started by cleaning the rust off first, then painetd the area white so I could see the lines easier. I followed the directions that have been posted on line and added a little for mistakes. More than I needed in the long run but I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up. After the first cut I tried fitting the backing plate on and had to do some more trimming to the flange. The biggest issue is that GM made a ring around the Camaro flange that's not there on the Regal. You must do some measuring to get it centered. Not that big a deal but you have to be good at spacial referencing so you can get it centered.
Once I got the flange cut right I found that the two original bolts were just long enough to hold the backing plate on so I could mark the location for the upper bolts. Once I drilled though the two upper locations I put the bolts in and drilled the lowers. BINGO! This isn't that hard but it does take some thinking on how it needs to be done. Do your research on how to make it work and it will be fine.:biggrin:
Theres alot to read on here Charlie. Ill be getting started now
They're asymmetrical so when I get everything in the frame if I need to swap sides I can. They may be shortened but until final mock up is done the extra room will help me get things in the right location.
