First 1/8th mile outing on 109 stroker

No converter will stall if the wastegate is open. PEROID. You have boost problems. You have powerlogger problems. Fix all the issue we spoke about when you called me multiple times yesterday when you were at the track. There are many things you need to address. You will never get a good pass until you fix everything. I know you are frustrated but from what you told me the car was not ready to be raced yet.

I get what you're saying Dave but the car was as ready as it was ever going to get on the street. If you've read any of my prior threads I tested everything I could and completed several logs before going. I drove 2 hours one way to tune with Bo. Made several logs around home, checked fuel pressure etc etc etc. I had some fueling issues and a minor KR issue that I found and fixed. There is NO way I would have ever found this boost issue on the street with street tires. The car had to be loaded and launched. Ain't happening on the street.

The PL issue never happened on the street so how could I fix what I didn't know was broke? It shut's itself off when I launch, at least 5 out of 6 times it did. Why? I don't know but I'll work on it. I can't launch that hard on the street.

The only reason I mentioned re stalling your convertor is because you mentioned it in a conversation we had last winter. The only way to know (per our conversation) was to go to the track. I like the convertor and you're right I need to fix my issues before I judge the convertor.

I called you once from the track at 12.44 pm after making a few passes to get some advice mainly because I couldn't get much data from the PL. Don't recall giving the impression that the car wasn't ready? At the end of that conversation you told me to call you back and keep you updated which I did at 4:23 pm when I was done. That's it, 2 call's

Now that I have the info from the track and look back at how the car did with the issues it has I have a different out look. The car averaged 17/18 psi on the best pass and managed a 7.5 ET at almost 92 MPH with a 1.8 60. When you think about that at 3940# that ain't too shabby.

daves 2600rpm 9.5 lockup has been 9's with a 45a and you have a 3250.time to turn the boost up. 16psi in 1st is not going to get the short times your looking for or stall the converter

I don't ever log from a dig on the street and almost never from a slow roll. I was told to go 60 mph in drive and roll in to it. I was getting 19 ish psi consistently. After a pass or 2 at the track with no PL data I decided to keep trying the PL but keep my eye on the gauges. I knew I didn't have any KR so I focused on building boost at the line and watching boost down the track. I was surprised to see 15/16 psi though 1st and 2nd. 3rd would net a 2/3 psi increase which matches what it did on the street in a 3rd gear pull at 19 psi. Now I know I have a boost issue. Turned the rod in 6 full turns 2 turns at a time and saw results on the last pass from a 7.7 to a 7.5. 60 was a little better and so was ET. The 6 turns didn't increase max boost just bumped up boost in 1st and 2nd. I found that interesting and told me I'm bleeding off boost some how. Evidently not enough pressure on the waste gate.

I was happy to get the data I got at the track. I'll take all the advice I've gotten in this thread and re-group before my next outing in October.
 
Running "Tuner Style" is the boost problem. I got $10 on that.
Hook the stock setup back up and turn the SD2 settings down and creep them up each run. This will also help keep the wastegate shut longer to aid in spool.
 
I've been thinking about giving this a try. Here's my questions;

1) If I'm bleeding off boost now is it because pressure is pushing the puck open when I'm stalling before launch?

2) If it's bleeding off at launch why does boost increase in 3rd? if I'm bleeding off?

3) Will I need to solve this problem before using the stock set up or will that simply fix my issue?

Probably a dumb question but I have a LOT of tension on the actuator now, more than 1/8" and it's bleeding.
 
Now I know I have a boost issue. Turned the rod in 6 full turns 2 turns at a time and saw results on the last pass from a 7.7 to a 7.5. 60 was a little better and so was ET. The 6 turns didn't increase max boost just bumped up boost in 1st and 2nd. I found that interesting and told me I'm bleeding off boost some how. Evidently not enough pressure on the waste gate.

I was happy to get the data I got at the track. I'll take all the advice I've gotten in this thread and re-group before my next outing in October.
that's what testing and tuning is all about.
 
That fat line with a lot of pressure from the turbo is opening the WG instantly... This increases spool time. If you can delay this "Hit" to the wastegate, then you will decrease spool time. That is where the orifice in the plastic Y comes into play from the stock setup.

Measure your WG hole and make sure nothing is hanging up at full swing on the puck. Also see where the puck is landing on the WG hole...May be misaligned.

Check the actuator with a compressor and make sure it is working properly.
Check for any cracks or loose bolts that could be bleeding boost too.
 
Maybe start logging exhaust pressure and verify there are no leaks pre turbo?


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My whole exhaust system is new Jet Hot coated. I had one minor exhaust leak. Very easy to spot on new coating. All is good there.
 
I'm not really sure what max boost will take to get the car in the 10's? That's all I want to do. My puck is lined up perfect, I had a machinist drill the hole out for me. I witnesses it with grease before he did so I'm good there.

I got out some of my old time slips last night when I used to race my Barracuda. My 340 stroker with the old heads did a 1.54 consistently at a 7.0 95 mph. I had an off the shelf convertor back then which hurt me but still went 11.1 at 119. The new heads on the motor went 131 mph cleaning the track with the slicks though the 1/8. I had one outing with that combo and almost lost my rear end. Called it quits because it's a car I can't replace. (Long story) I four linked it since then but God gave me a free pass that day so I'll respect that and move on. That's how I ended up choosing a GN to get back in it several years later.

After looking at those numbers I have a way's to go. It's going to take a good 60 and a bunch more HP to get this #3900 sled in the 10's. I think that 7.5 et in the 1/8 would have equated to an 11.8 ish??? I'm not sure how well this car will back half yet but if we assume the norm at maybe 20 mph I'm looking at 11.8 et at 112 the way the car sits now. Since I'm new to the GN mannerisms I'm not sure what 22 psi full track will do with my set up? How much will 4 psi full track make a difference with my set up assuming an average to good tune?

The only way to find out is get back out there after fixing my boost issue and figure out why my PL keeps shutting off at launch.
 
My car went a full second quicker 12.0 to 11.0 with 5psi more. 19psi to 24psi and 116 mph To 124 mph
How big is the waste gate hole ? It made a big difference in mine .
 
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My car went a full second quicker 12.0 to 11.0 with 5psi more. 19psi to 24psi and 116 mph To 124 mph
How big is the waste gate hole ? It made a big difference in mine .

I don't remember exactly. I'd have to ask Husek what he told me to drill it out too?

I have a couple pics of when we did it.



 
Asking a lot of a Garrett .63 ex housing when looking to make 10 second power in a heavy car. I had choke flow around 122mph with a 3650lb car a few years ago.
I'm sure the stock MAF was more to blame. I know I picked up 5-6psi boost and 6-7mph by going to speed density and a larger a/r.


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I'm learning as I go but Turbo sizes and combo's is something I haven't even tried to research.

I just had this turbo at your shop a few weeks ago. I asked if there was anything we could or should do to improve it and you said a 45 has been in the 9's so leave it be. I did not tell you how heavy I was though.

Not much I can do about the weight so I'll have to manage what I have and work my way in to the 10's. Back when I raced the Cuda I started in the low 14's. Tweaked my way to high 13's on street tires. Then I started buying parts.:D

No knob to turn on a naturally aspirated car but a few years later I had the car dialed in at a consistent 11.10 at 119 with 1.5 60's I changed some parts but that combo would have went 10's if I would have stuck with it. All I needed was a good convertor and I was there. Pretty impressive for what I had at that time. Then I decided to put the original 4 speed back in it and buy a set of $5500 cylinder heads and over power every aspect of the car. Never got it out of the hole worth a darn but it did trap at 131 mph at a 11.10 with a 2,2 60. It's a beast on the street!!!!! and that's where it's staying.

I'll keep working at it. I'll get the boost issue fixed, fuel it properly and see what happens. I've done zero with the suspension. I have comp engineering drag shocks but when I went to adjust them before I went to the track they turned out to be junk. I'll get some QA1's. I also have bag's in the rear and I ran them empty. I did play with pressure in the slicks a bit. I started at 18 psi where my slicked liked to hook in the Cuda. Had a hard time deciding if I had any spin at the line though. As I tried to build boost at the line it pushed the car so I never got to hit the tires like I used to. Leaving a little soft and then hitting them with boost ain't going to work. No evidence of wheel spin in the PL log looking at the MPH. Not sure if you need to blow the tires off for that to register?
 
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