First 1/8th mile outing on 109 stroker

BARRACUDA1968

Well-Known Member
Finally got the car to the track after 2 years. I had a good time but not too impressed with the combo at this point but I'll get there.

First pass was 0 boost off the line at a 2.0 60 and 7.9 at 90 mph. I'm using old slicks but hooking ok just no boost.

2nd pass I tried to spool it at the line and according to the PL I got maybe 3 psi? 1.8 60 7.7 at 91 mph

It was the same story for the next few passes. My PL kept shutting off at launch so I only managed to get one full run but on the 2nd run I glanced at the boost gauge at it was 15/16 until 3rd and then creped to 18/19.

This is where is got interesting. 3rd pass I turned the actuator 2 full turns. The 60 dipped in to the 1.7's and I got a tad more mph. Boost was still around 16 psi until 3rd gear and crept to 18/19.

4th pass was same setting and pushed the car through the light trying to build boost. I got the gauge to hit maybe 3 or 4 pounds and the car pushed through so I let off and put the car a little sideways and just made my pass.

5th pass I turned the actuator in another 2 full turns. Total of 4 now. 1.8 60 7.7 at 90 mph. I watched boost on this pass and now I saw 16/17 until 3rd and it maxed at 19 psi

My thinking at this point is to get the boost to come on quicker by turning in the actuator rod. I wasn't increasing full boost but I did see boost increase through 1st and 2nd gear by doing this. I caught a log on this pass thankfully. The log looked good so I decided to turn the actuator in 2 more full turns. 6 total.

This was the last pass so I did a John Force burn out and built as much boost as I could without pushing the car. 1.76 60 7.5 at almost 92 mph. Boost was closer to 17/18 1st and 2nd gear and maybe 20 in 3rd. My PL shut off again so no data. I had 0 KR all day accept one blip on the 5th pass I think when the car shifted from 2nd to 3rd.

I let the car shift itself all day so I may pick up a little if I did the 2-3 shift myself. My tranny is getting lazy there which I expected. It's not built for this set up but holding on for now.

So what did I learn? Well I need to get the 60 down in the 1.5's My slicks are old but I don't think is my biggest issue. Some how I got to be able to build boost at the line. It looks like my convertor is stalling to 2700 rpm on the brake and flashing to 3100 at launch. Boost comes on real hard from there but I'm still under 17 psi at the top of 1st gear.

I'll post up a log from my 5th run so you guy's can take a look.

Maybe some kind of boost controller will help I don't know? It seemed like my brakes were holding but I could be wrong there too.

Any advice would be appreciated. The car's got a lot left in it but until I get the 60 figured out what's the point.

 

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It looks like my convertor is stalling to 2700 rpm on the brake and flashing to 3100 at launch.
I hope this is a typo,the converter should flash a lot higher than 3100.a converter will behave differently the more power you hit it with.you have to get the car to leave on boost.
 
Trying to build boost at the line



Launching



Right after launching



I'm not real sure how accurate the timing is on the PL as to the real event but this should give you an idea of what the convertor is doing.
 
Do you have any brake/suspension mods?
How do you want to go about fixing the launch? There are a TON of ways to get good 60's.
 
I have HR rear suspension with bags, I didn't play with those at the track. I also have drag shocks but they wouldn't set when I tried them before going to the track. I left my front sway bar on the car.

I need to be able to build say 10 psi on the brake before I play with the rest.
 
There is no way in hell are you going to get off the line any better and get decent numbers with that converter?

My street car with a TE-45A and street radials was at the track for the first time last Saturday and with a 1.86 60', the 1/8 mile times were 7.41 @98 MPH with about the same boost you had. My traction was so bad I lifted off the throttle on the pad. Maybe I could have had better traction but I did not want to lower tire pressure as my wife and I had to drive home!

The trans shifted about 5200 max, and if I would have shifted about where you were, my numbers would be much better, but with no tach I let the trans do it. When I "fix" the governor, it will be shifting at 6000 RPM!

I have done many TE-45A turbos, and a 3600-3800 stall and 10" converter is what is needed for the car to perform properly street and strip.

You do not need a $1000 converter, we use a 10" non-lock up which is about $600.
 
I just looked at my log on that run and left the line at 11 psi, and in one second from launch is was at 14 psi where I momentarily left off the throttle and boost dropped to 12.5 psi.

At the 2 second mark I was back in the throttle and at 16.5 psi.

When I reached the 4 sec. point, it shifted to second at 5200 RPM and 18.6 psi.

You need to get that 45A into its power band to kick your ass off the line!
 
I bought this convertor from Husek back when I had my first 3.8 engine with TA60 so I was more suited for that combo. I kind of figured it wouldn't work the best for the new engine etc but had to try it.

I don't want a non lock up. I drive my car a lot on the street and many highway miles. I'll probably re stall what I have as Husek and I talked about that already. I'm going through the trans this winter so I'll do it then. For now I'll just have to see what I can do with what I have. I'm going to a 1/4 mile track next month.

My goal here is to run a high 10 and call it a day. This car may go to the track 3 or 4 times a year. It's a heavy weight at 3940# with me in it so it's a pig but it should run the number with the right stuff in it.
 
The first time riding in the car at WOT, I noticed the lag it had. Trust me, its not too bad for the combo. He can do a bunch of things to make it go away and to get better 60ft times, but it is ultimately up to him. If it were me, I suggest the e brake technique at the track. There is no money spent and it will yield good 60ft times so he can get a solid baseline of the car in the 1/4 and see what its doing. Otherwise he can invest in the aluminum drums and s10 cylinders to hold more pressure at the line.
 
[QUOTE="BARRACUDA1968, post: 3594466, member: 36800.............."I don't want a non lock up. I drive my car a lot on the street and many highway miles. ....................."[/QUOTE]

My first experience with a non lock up converter was in 1987 when a 10" NLU was installed in my 3K mile new TR, and only minor mods like a chip, dual exhaust, no cat, and non-stock K&N air filter.

At 65 MPH I could not tell any difference in RPM after the change?

The factory was compelled to meet CAFE standards, and even 1/2 a mile per gallon was huge, which is about the difference between the 2, but every little improvement helped them meet their goal.

In the performance world of converters, simple and lighter is better for spooling, and not having a extra clutch disk and parts to lock it up is not desirable or needed.

Throughout the years I have built and worked on our cars, I have made many mistakes, and also I have learned a lot in the process as well.

I make this statement not to be a smart-ass, but to dispel myths and share the good stuff that has worked for many hundreds of GN's, not just an opinion, or what may have been true for 1 or 2 cars, but actual real-world experience! :)
 
No converter will stall if the wastegate is open. PEROID. You have boost problems. You have powerlogger problems. Fix all the issue we spoke about when you called me multiple times yesterday when you were at the track. There are many things you need to address. You will never get a good pass until you fix everything. I know you are frustrated but from what you told me the car was not ready to be raced yet.
 
That converter is way to tight to properly launch that car. 4000-4100@ 10psi would make a world of difference. 60' will come down a lot


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