Flat Tappet Camshaft Reliability...

[MCH86GN]

I just got done re-building the engine in my car after the bearings were starved of oil due to the stock oil pan during Auto-X's..... I installed a COMP 206-206 flat tappet cam with Z-paste on the lifter surfaces & cam lobes, Installed the cam and lifters then made a mark on each lifter with a black sharpie and turned the cam to view that the lifters were turning. One lifter (can't remember which one is supposed to turn in the opposite direction as the rest) some lifters turned more distance than the others so I swapped them around until they all moved pretty much the same distance as each other. This is a very important step because if for some reason one does not turn and you start the break in process that lifter will more likely take out that cam lobe.
Proper cam break in with 10w30 and 2 bottles of ZDDP during break in and the first 100 miles, changed oil and added 1 bottle of ZDDP and all is well so far..

We also tested the LBS of each valve spring (2-sets) before each one was installed on the head.

My oil pressure Hot at idle in Drive is about 25-30 psi....

My break in procedure was fresh oil in, with ZPaste and ZDDP and then once break in was through changed the oil and added ZDDP. Not sure if during the initial break in whether or not 1 or 2 bottles of ZDDP were used, but Bruce at Aggressive Performance has had only a few guys return with their cars, after flat tappet installs. He is not sure why. As far as springs, I have Champion Ported Irons, I didn't specific any springs and I did however specific that I had a stock CAM. Anyway, I'm going to switch to conventional motor oil and of course I have stocked up on ZDDP.

 

[we4Mateo]

I still can't decide after reading this thread. I'm a firm believer in the abilities of ZDDP and my current FT cam is working great with my light 75lb springs from T/A . I never regret putting a FT cam in my otherwise stock 109 and my numbers are everything I could ask for. I just don't know if I trust another FT in my multi-thousand dollar build that'll need at least 110lb springs to do what I want to do next. This thread does not quite give me that level of confidence. I also don't know if I want to put the 130-160lb springs that have been recommended to me on my heads for a roller install. I have had two very knowledgable Buick guys indicate to me that a modest roller set up with enough preload will be as quiet as a FT cam, especially with stock rockers, so I'm over that. No one in this thread has yet to indicate that they do what I do in driving 10k miles per year, except with a moderate FT cam and 100lb plus springs without issue. I'm looking for 10sec power and 100k mile reliability, so I'm building a 9sec shortblock and running it 10.50 or slower. What would you do? I'm really looking for anyone out there that has even 50k miles on a performance FT cam with the proper springs. How many miles and how many runs down the strip? How fast? I think it'll be hard to find this as ZDDP hasn't been out that long and I can't find many people driving their cars 10k miles per year. Do I want to be the ZDDP guinea pig though?

Thanks, and this is a great thread.

 

[278cikiller]

With all theses cam numbers that were mention did anyone have to change push rods?

 

[MCH86GN]

With all theses cam numbers that were mention did anyone have to change push rods?

I had a Comp CAM 206/206 installed and I used stock push rods

 

[we4Mateo]

I used stock pushrods with my flat tappet erson 208 but will use custom ones with a roller.