Frame Notch PIA, What Are Your Labor Details, Price and Money??

[GNVYUS 1]

LET'S MAKE THIS USEFUL FOR FUTURE READERS

What did your notch cost, parts and labor?

How long did it take to do the notch labor wise?

Post pics of your notch frame and with tires?

Update on my notch, sometimes you can't buy happiness. Picture is 325/50/15 MT Street R.

My frame notch has been a real PIA, I can't ever just pay a huge amount and it's 100% done I guess.

Frame notch $6100, but it looked like the factory and was done with expert care, literally other shops couldn't tell it was notched. But....it had some small areas not marked and mathematical mapped out to make the notch useful for huge tires.

Issues to be aware of for your notch..
Original notch blended out too soon and rubs. You want to make a mark on the frame that is from the edge of the tire thread at the front and rear of the tire. This mark guarantees the notch has to at least go that far forwards and back and be FLAT the whole way. I suggest then going 1" more beyond this mark if you ever go to 30" tires.

The notch doesn't have equal thickness throughout. Make sure you have them MEASURE the thickness along the way so you don't have unequal thickness.

Shop can't get me in for many months for the fix so I find a local fabricator so I can finish up other things.

It's a FrankenFrame notch and after $2000 more you get the picture attached after the suspension shop gets it.

No one to blame but me, I try not to tell people HOW to do their jobs, just what I want and try to help with parts and vision.
What I should've done is sit down with them and see what they planned to do and pay them for their time to map out the repair. This would've entailed the measuring above and using the existing outside face of the frame vs welding plate and it looking rough and sticking out.

My Issues Even After Repair..
Frame isn't totally flat still from top area to rear area and there's like a 1/4" difference in notch width. My left tire has only a 1/2" spacer (rear end was shortened) and looks great tucked in, right tire has 1" spacer to clear the notch bump. My rear end is totally straight and this was aligned recently to confirm.

F me, I could've bought a frame, had it blasted, powdercoated, braced and then notched for what I got in this and probably installed yet I'm still not done. Now I'm in too deep to do my initial plan above but if you know me, I don't let BS derail my plan and I'll make happen somehow or literally do the above and then find those that have actually done this for real vs theory.


LET'S MAKE THIS USEFUL FOR FUTURE READERS

What did your notch cost, parts and labor?

How long did it take to do the notch labor wise?

Post pics of your notch frame and with tires?

 

[434nova]

I was just thinking about getting my frame notched today. What are your specs on the wheels and is it a stock length rear? 325 50 15 is the tire I would like to use also.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Moser 9", shortened 1" with 325/50/15 ET Street R on 15x10 4.5"bs. This changes with what rear end, factory rear end would be 5.5"bs.

Let me just say, even this was a PIA. Moser has a form online that's very detailed except in the form area it asks about shortening the axles. I have the saved form where I said 1" shortened. They eventually called my shop and said they couldn't shorten, then built my rear, I hear about this and call them. Moser says they can only do stock unless the rear end has been notched or tubed, I say I ordered it that way because I'm notched, they then need $800 to shorten, repowdercoat and move shock brackets. F me again, unreal. Great form but they needed to add...

Factory Frame
Notched/Tubbed Frame

 

[434nova]

Ok interesting. I have a moser fab9 in my car but its stock length, I am also running a 15x10 wheel with a 4.5 back spacing with 275 60 15. With a full frame notch and a stock length rear a 15x10 with a 5.5 should work. I’m going to give my chassis guy a call and see what’s he charging and his turn around time is. When I had my nova he made me custom wheel tubs and he fabricated my trunk floor and made me rear frame rails when he did my mini tub. This was about 15 years ago and the cost was 2000 back then. Curious to see what he charges now. Here’s a pic of my Buick rearend setup now.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

1 & ONLY time dealing with the jerkoffs at Moser.
Their c clip eliminator axle kit was a total shitshow.
Seal crushed when they assembled it. Needed special tools to replace.
Bastard seal that they would not sell me.
Then, it was the "you didn't assemble it right", bullshit.
My next purchase was a Quicktimes 9".
Done right except for the wonky lower shock mounts.
I modified and notified them.
Recently read that they still have that issue. Some folks never learn.

 

[dynoman]

I'm notched, they then need $800 to shorten, repowdercoat and move shock brackets.

Interesting , because I measured how much I could shorten each side ( which was 1.5" ) without touching the lower shock mounts . I gave the dimensions to Quick Performance and it bolted right up ...except for the funky angle of the lower shock mounting which I fixed with an angled spacer .

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Quick performance was $1000 cheaper but like 6 weeks build time, Moser builds in 3-5 days depending on powdercoating.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Usefully
I will add this
There is no reason to notch with today's teck
The new turbos,suspension,shocks, wastegate teck, and the ramp ability of the new computers recodering shock and wheelspeed data,in the right hands will get the wheelspin out of the carnwith a proper driver.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Quick performance was $1000 cheaper but like 6 weeks build time, Moser builds in 3-5 days depending on powdercoating.

Think maybe there's a reason for that?

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Moser Brand bumping the price you mean Chuck?

Though Mosers 3-5 days is a great build and powdercoat time so that's like if Quick wanted $500 for speedy powder and assembly then you're looking at a small % difference in price.

Ya the notch is more for us non knowledgeable racers that also can't run a Radial Pro on the sheet like the Spoolinator does. LOL

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Moser Brand bumping the price you mean Chuck?

No. Maybe the longer lead time at Quick means they're busier??

 

[Mr.Spool]

Moser Brand bumping the price you mean Chuck?

Though Mosers 3-5 days is a great build and powdercoat time so that's like if Quick wanted $500 for speedy powder and assembly then you're looking at a small % difference in price.

Ya the notch is more for us non knowledgeable racers that also can't run a Radial Pro on the sheet like the Spoolinator does. LOL

The r is the street legal one
Works thale same

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Found a great way to make sure the notch is equal distance from the rotor the whole way through the notch, mine isn't equal, details below.

Tools You'll Need
Klein Tools 93LDM100C Compact Laser Distance Measure, 100 Feet, Measures in Feet, Inches, Meters

https://a.co/d/4nIS5g4

30" ruler or something straight and long like a block of wood etc to rest along the rotor hub face.

Why Laser Measurement?
You get the exact distance from a set point on the wheel to confirm the notch is equal distance throughout the 28 or 30" tire diameter. This is a guarantee that your eyes aren't deceiving you as you cut the frame and add the frames outside face or steel plate back on the frame.

My Frame Notch Numbers, The Problem Is Clear Now!!
After laser measuring my notch on the driver side, (passenger is worse) here's my numbers...

Driver side, lower frame near front door = 11 1/16" away from rotor face

Driver side, Top arch frame notch = 11"

Driver side, rear frame near trunk = 10 1/2"

The rear notch has been my issue, even after the repair frame notch I'm still 1/2" closer in the rear frame notch and it's creating havoc. This back half of the notch needs to be redone, moved in 1/2" and blended back to look factory. I'll then need to beat back the upper wheel well since the tire looks like it'll rub if moved 1/2" closer in and then car height lowered to say 27.5".

I'll then add Chucks rear frame brace GNS sells to strengthen up the frame so I don't get the quarter buckling on hard hits.

 

[rag231]

The dreaded quarter panel buckle!! Frame Bushings will have to be looked at as well.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Update....325/50/15 notch and tuck.
This is a very detailed approach to a notch, I had them measure so all 30" of the frame was equal distance so the sidewall would clear the same throughout.

**Notch is 30" wide (marked in purple pic 1)

**Equal distance cut from rotor face throughout 30" area on frame (pic 2)

**Reinforced with 3/16 plate that was laser cut (pic 4)

**3/16 Plate goes out the back of frame to thicken up the rear thin area. This rear area got thinner from equal distance cut so they opened/slotted up frame, slide the plate through the slot and then welded it to the rear of frames back to thicken the frame.
Plate is inside the front, mid and most of rear then extends past the back of rear frame to create a strong straight through reinforcement.
(Pic 3 shows plate poking out the rear frame slot)

**Looks like I gained 1 1/4" total BS and the 325s should tuck nicely now without 3/4 and 1" spacers (notch 1 wasn't equal distance).

Expected results, looks like there's 2 areas on the well tub that tires might rub, possible plans are pounding back, maybe relief cut and bending or if necessary mini tub but I'm more plan A and B.

 

[dynoman]

Your problem in the tires fitting is the rim width . On a 15 X 10" rim the sidewall bulge will rub on the wheel well , a 15 X 9 or 8 will allow the tire to fit better . My notch was flush with the bottom of the wheel well and I had to "adjust" The upper part of the wheel well because it tapers in slightly . This allowed me to fit a 295/65-15 tire which is 30" tall . Put a straight edge on the frame and adjust the wheel well so it is flush with it .

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Ya the 325 on a 10" wide is probably close to the full 13.2" section width vs a 9" wide wheel that'll suck back some thread width.

I suspect end of the week it'll be done and I'll post back pics with the fatties on and the coil overs dropped down to normal height.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

With the frame notched a tad more than normal they did a mini mini tub.

Pic 1 cut away (driver side)
Pic 2 finished (passenger)

Taking out the trunk spare tire hump, then they'll weld an extra 6" of 1/4" steel to the main inner frame brace (this brace runs on the inside then through the back side frame to match up with the rear of the frame) to really strengthen that area in the rear that got thin after the mega notch.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Finished, 325/50/15 tuck in there now.
30" wide in case I ever run that tire.

Had to remove the spare tire panel so they could get access to welding the inner 1/4" brace for more rear frame support.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Wow, it looks great! Nice work.