Frame swap

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Im not putting a cage in it till way down the road and boxing the frame seems extreme for a car that Im driving daily. Notching the back frame scares me too because im not a fan of taking my car and making it half as strong. I understand that people have done it and its worked out but with how much Im going to be driving it Im thinking more about if I get rearended and the frames notched thats a critical spot of resistance since it is already disadvantaged by being bent.
 
OK, I gotta ask the obvious question. Why is there a hot air maf on your car, and how's that working out for you????
That switch with the nipple on it over where the MAP sensor would be is the hobbs switch for the boost lights on your digital dash, a vacuum line gets hooked to it. The wastegate solenoid with two nipples leaves one open to atmosphere. The valve in the heater hose also needs a vacuum source hooked to it.
 
OK, I gotta ask the obvious question. Why is there a hot air maf on your car, and how's that working out for you????
That switch with the nipple on it over where the MAP sensor would be is the hobbs switch for the boost lights on your digital dash, a vacuum line gets hooked to it. The wastegate solenoid with two nipples leaves one open to atmosphere. The valve in the heater hose also needs a vacuum source hooked to it.
You say obvious, I say mind blowing haha. How do you know its a hot air MAF. If it is a hot air MAF then it would make sense as to why it seems that I have two different types of original intakes :rolleyes:Gotta love first timers... Well I dont have a digital dash so that can go, and as for the heater hose when you say to just hook a hose to it, do you mean a certain hose or just any hose with vacuum.
 
Because the hot air maf's are visually unmistakable. As for the vacuum supply to the heater hose valve, that's pretty complex. It get's its vacuum supply via a line that comes into the engine bay from the passenger compartment under the heater/AC assemply. Inside the car is a vacuum manifold sorta thing that is controlled by the heat/AC controls.

You've got yourself quite a project there, getting everything under that hood hooked up correctly!! I don't envy you your task.
 
i did not mean to comme of ass an ass i just had to ask because in my eyes i woulda boxed it notching if done proberly will not reduce frame integraty and boxing the frame wheter you want major power or not would of just been a good move because its alot of work to take the car back off if you decide later you wanna make power and go fast but you are right it is not necesary my plan next winter is to body off the car and fully box the frame
no for the maf have you had the car running with that maf on im suprised that works ?????
 
i did not mean to comme of ass an ass i just had to ask because in my eyes i woulda boxed it notching if done proberly will not reduce frame integraty and boxing the frame wheter you want major power or not would of just been a good move because its alot of work to take the car back off if you decide later you wanna make power and go fast but you are right it is not necesary my plan next winter is to body off the car and fully box the frame
no for the maf have you had the car running with that maf on im suprised that works ?????

Haha its okay I wasnt sure if you were or not, bad side of the internet. I also dont consider myself an excellent welder and thats a project I would only do if I was good. If you can do it I would definitly suggest it because from what I hear it does do wonders but its just more of a project then what I would want to tackle. As you can see from my MAF deliemma, Im mainly working off of General knowledge, pictures, and this board haha. Luckily I havent tried to start it yet so thats one less problem I would have to track down.

Because the hot air maf's are visually unmistakable. As for the vacuum supply to the heater hose valve, that's pretty complex. It get's its vacuum supply via a line that comes into the engine bay from the passenger compartment under the heater/AC assemply. Inside the car is a vacuum manifold sorta thing that is controlled by the heat/AC controls.

You've got yourself quite a project there, getting everything under that hood hooked up correctly!! I don't envy you your task.

Yeah after looking at some pictures I saw what you were talking about and your right its wrong so thats just another thing to be added to the list haha. I actually have that line in the other pictures so now I know where that goes. Any chance you know where the other line that looks like it goes. Also their are three wires that come up arounf the same place(green,tan,white) and they seem to have weather proof plugs which I dont know if their original or someone added them. Do you know where they go or the other wires in the pictures. any advice will help!!
 
id recoment upgrading to a lt1 maf or ls1 maf with translator this way if you maf fails its easyer to track down a new one
 
Yeah thats what Im thinking to, their goes my tax refund (In school so I dont work much:D)
 
Hard to tell about the lines, they've been modified. However I can help with some of the connectors. In the very last large picture in your post #39 you show 4 connectors. The black single square connector appears to be the supply for the hood light. The larger 3 wire weather pack connector is for the pressure switch on the powermaster brake system, which has been replaced on yours by a vacuum brake system. The eyelet is a ground which goes to a bolt on the firewall just behind and above the driver's side valve cover. Now, for the odd looking 1 wire "squeeze" connector, it very well could be for the knock sensor (rear of enging block under ignition module.

The 3 wire connector over on the other side by the hobbs boost switch we talked about earlier is the connector for a MAP sensor.

Now, this may be a little hard to explain so bare with me. In the third to last picture in post 39 you show a picture of the water valve. Just to the right of that is a metal vacuum line. That should have a line connected to the MAP sensor you dont have. On yours (if you had a digital dash) it would be connected to that hobbs boost light switch thingy).
 
Hard to tell about the lines, they've been modified. However I can help with some of the connectors. In the very last large picture in your post #39 you show 4 connectors. The black single square connector appears to be the supply for the hood light. The larger 3 wire weather pack connector is for the pressure switch on the powermaster brake system, which has been replaced on yours by a vacuum brake system. The eyelet is a ground which goes to a bolt on the firewall just behind and above the driver's side valve cover. Now, for the odd looking 1 wire "squeeze" connector, it very well could be for the knock sensor (rear of enging block under ignition module.

The 3 wire connector over on the other side by the hobbs boost switch we talked about earlier is the connector for a MAP sensor.

Now, this may be a little hard to explain so bare with me. In the third to last picture in post 39 you show a picture of the water valve. Just to the right of that is a metal vacuum line. That should have a line connected to the MAP sensor you dont have. On yours (if you had a digital dash) it would be connected to that hobbs boost light switch thingy).

Thak you so much. Do you think I can just tape up the powermaster wires and hide them? I knew about the vacuum line and had it hooked up but knew I needed a MAP sensor so I just unhooked it for now. I see you advertise for translators so I guess your the best one to ask. Since I need a new MAF I was wondering if it would worth it to get a regular translator with a newer MAF or should I just take the step up and get a translator pro or genII. Im not sure how user friendly each one is so if you could shed some light on the subject or point me to someone that does know that would be great.
Thanks again
 
As far as a Translator plus, they are no longer produced. They were replaced by the GEN II.
So.... The Translator lineup that is presently being produced is the regular Translator, the Translator GENII, and the Translator Pro

I tend to recommend to new Turbo Regal owners to go with the regular Translator. It's pretty much a plug and play solution that can't get much simpler. It allows the setup of any one of several newer GM MAFs, and with an Extender chip allows for several tuning options.
The GENII of course adds many more tuning abilities, but may have a bit of a steep learning curve for Turbo Regal noobs.

At any rate, FullThrottle can sureely set you up.
 
As far as a Translator plus, they are no longer produced. They were replaced by the GEN II.
So.... The Translator lineup that is presently being produced is the regular Translator, the Translator GENII, and the Translator Pro

I tend to recommend to new Turbo Regal owners to go with the regular Translator. It's pretty much a plug and play solution that can't get much simpler. It allows the setup of any one of several newer GM MAFs, and with an Extender chip allows for several tuning options.
The GENII of course adds many more tuning abilities, but may have a bit of a steep learning curve for Turbo Regal noobs.

At any rate, FullThrottle can sureely set you up.

Yeah I think im going with a regular translator with a LS1 MAF, just gotta wait for my tax refund.
 
Well made some real progress today...until I tried to put the cam sensor in. Was just trying to line it up the best I could but Couldnt get it to go in so took the piping off the front of the motor. Then I figured its been a while since the motors had oil thru it so I decided to prime it a little. Well suddenly their was a nice puddle of oil under the front of the car.:mad: Apperently I forgot to put the gasket on the oil cooler adapter to block seal...At least I learned this now and not while the car is starting up for the first time. Other then that I got the battery in and power/ground wores run. Turned the key on for the first time ever and the oil pressure gauge lit up so at least I got some of it right so far:D. On the bad side no check engine light so somethings not right with that.

Making progress and thats what counts in the end
 
Sorry for the lack of updates but its getting VERY close to strating. The translator should be at home waiting for me. I would start it tonight but gonna have to put it off cause I got tickets to the flyers game in the owners suite!!! But anyway, I pulled the doors and fenders off to start the bodywork and actually found more rust hiding under the door hinges and underneith all the original seam sealer. This stuff screwed my last regal so it ALL got scrapped out, ground down, and luckily their were no major holes so I was able to just weld up what wat missing and make it all smooth. Also on the first start up its not going to have anything after the downpipe so I just added a piece of pipe so the fumes arent just going out underneith the car. Ill be sure to have a video running of the start up so all the followers of this thread can hear it run and probably yell at me for doing something wrong:D. Also Ill have some updated pics of all the work thats been done.
 
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