Fresh motor leaks water!!!

[jhanson1750]

Well got my car fired up and checked for leaks and found a steady drip from the HG on the pass side over the starter once the cooling system pressured up. The heads I bought off the board have reciever grooves and 1007 fel-pros were used. I have NOT RETORQUED YET but don't know if I would trust it if it quit leaking after the retorque. I am worried that the wire in the HG may be out of the groove and keeping the head from clamping down correctly on the rest of the HG. I am thinking about just pulling the heads and getting the grooves machined off and using a thicker HG to make up the compression hight. Looking for any advice on this thing. Thanks Jon Hanson

 

[ttypewhite]

I would say, go with your gut reaction on this. Get rid of the lockwire. But keep in mind, as soon as you mill the heads you might have to use a different intake gasket to take up the slack that the milling has done. Your intake may or may not line up well when its done. So have the upper plenum off and look down the ports on the lower intake to make sure all is good before you button it down.

 

[BEATAV8]

Try a block sealer first. You may be pleasantly surprised.

GM cooling system sealer tabs work well. So does the ceramic based stuff found on the auto parts store shelves.

 

[J-B Racing]

This is a topic that I spoke about many times in the past. Fel pro a while back made a mistake in the instructions when they asked to make Grooves .008`` deep. Now on the New 1007`s they recommend to make the Grooves .012`` Deep. Because if this mistake, the Gakste does not make a confortable Bond and causes Water Seepage between the Head and the Block.


Joe

 

[BlackBandit]

What are your performance goals. IMO I would lose the grooves. I had receiver grooves in my heads and had them machined off. I'm not going to get out of the 11's with this engine though and probably won't go faster than an 11.5. I also figured if I wanted to use the heads in a faster engine I could just go to a cometic. Allot of guys are running pretty fast on those.

 

[jhanson1750]

Today 11:44 AM
ttypewhite I would say, go with your gut reaction on this. Get rid of the lockwire. But keep in mind, as soon as you mill the heads you might have to use a different intake gasket to take up the slack that the milling has done. Your intake may or may not line up well when its done. So have the upper plenum off and look down the ports on the lower intake to make sure all is good before you button it down.

The triangulation of the block, heads and intake should be kept to near stock alignment if the material removed by machining is made up for with a thicker HG. Jon Hanson

Today 12:25 PM
J-B Racing This is a topic that I spoke about many times in the past. Fel pro a while back made a mistake in the instructions when they asked to make Grooves .008`` deep. Now on the New 1007`s they recommend to make the Grooves .012`` Deep. Because if this mistake, the Gakste does not make a confortable Bond and causes Water Seepage between the Head and the Block.


Joe

I had the machine shop check out the heads but I don't know what the depth of the cut was. The heads were cut when I bought them. Jon Hanson

Today 12:59 PM
BlackBandit What are your performance goals. IMO I would lose the grooves. I had receiver grooves in my heads and had them machined off. I'm not going to get out of the 11's with this engine though and probably won't go faster than an 11.5. I also figured if I wanted to use the heads in a faster engine I could just go to a cometic. Allot of guys are running pretty fast on those.

I think that is the route I'm gonna take. Does any one know of the part #s for a HG that is @ .015 thicker than stock? Thanks Jon Hanson

 

[BlackBandit]

FWIW I didn't use a thicker HG and mine sealed. We'll see what happens when I finally turn it up.

 

[87NAT]

GM always dropped a couple of tabs in the cooling system from the factory.

Both of my engines dripped a little bit from the rear HG area until I put the GM tabs in them.

 

[ronbuick]

Well did you get your leak resolved, did you try the caddy tabs?? inquiring
minds need to know, thanks

Ron
l

 

[joemama]

Head studs or bolts? I've seen many of head studs seep coolant. GM tablets should put an end to it. Even if you have head bolts I would try the tablets before ripping the heads back off.

 

[jhanson1750]

Well I got is to quit leaking!! I used some of the better looking stuff at the local auto parts store (no big chuncks or flakes in the can) and followed the directions on the back. "Flush coolant system (not needed),drain the radiator, mix product with 3 quarts of warm water and pour into radiator, run engine for 20-30 mins, DO NOT RACE ENGINE OR DRIVE THE AUTOMOBILE!! Drain the cooling system and let sit for 24 hours with the system open. (no rad cap and drain open) I also pulled both rad hoses to let it "breath" a little better. The next day (Monday) I put the cooling system pressure tester back on and she holds 14lbs perfectly. The next thing is to install valve seals on the exhaust sides of both heads while retorquing. Then install the catalitic (sp?) converter and see if she will pass smog. If so swap out for the 3" DP and build the test pipe for it. THEN start tuning!!!!:biggrin: Guys thanks for all the replies and support. Jon Hanson

Ps. Does anyone think I should pick up the tabs anyway and throw them in just for insurance??

 

[vacuum 6]

Well I got is to quit leaking!! I used some of the better looking stuff at the local auto parts store (no big chuncks or flakes in the can) and followed the directions on the back. "Flush coolant system (not needed),drain the radiator, mix product with 3 quarts of warm water and pour into radiator, run engine for 20-30 mins, DO NOT RACE ENGINE OR DRIVE THE AUTOMOBILE!! Drain the cooling system and let sit for 24 hours with the system open. (no rad cap and drain open) I also pulled both rad hoses to let it "breath" a little better. The next day (Monday) I put the cooling system pressure tester back on and she holds 14lbs perfectly. The next thing is to install valve seals on the exhaust sides of both heads while retorquing. Then install the catalitic (sp?) converter and see if she will pass smog. If so swap out for the 3" DP and build the test pipe for it. THEN start tuning!!!!:biggrin: Guys thanks for all the replies and support. Jon Hanson

Ps. Does anyone think I should pick up the tabs anyway and throw them in just for insurance??

Now that is good news! What stuff did you use (ceramic stuff)? Sure pick up the tabs. IMO wait to throw them in.

 

[Mackinblack007]

That **** is magic, my father over heated his car, and it had gas in the water, he put in the magic sealer, and the car ran another 150k miles with no work needed.