Frustrated - considering dumping my "engine from he!!"

[S10xGN]

My crank sensor has only 2 slots, the slot furthest from the electrical connection is the one that (most easily) lines up with the slots in the balancer. If I were to swap slots, there prolly wouldn't be enough of the sensor left in the bracket for the clamp-bolt to "pinch" on and hold correctly...

I'm setting the cam sensor EXACTLY like I've done in the past, and it's always started before. I know the cam nose is assembled correctly, as I pulled the front of the motor off again *just to check* and make sure. Since the cam sensor "cap" has been cracked since the last successful start-up, I'll try replacing it first. Strange though, how my homemade cam sensor tool shows the same voltages as before when setting the sensor's position.

Sorry to hear the concensus on Optimas is for cr@p. Mine does show 12.6V with the battery charged, ignition off, so I believe I'm getting enough juice.

Chuck, you've given me a couple of things to try, thanks! Ya'll don't think the ECM is somehow bypassing the PROM and reading from the calpak?

Later,

 

[Steve Wood]

What does the battery read while you are cranking it?

 

[S10xGN]

Originally posted by Steve Wood
What does the battery read while you are cranking it?

Hmmm, something else to check...

 

[Chuck Leeper]

FROM HELL!!

Russ, DOES THE CAM SENSOR TURN WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE????

 

[S10xGN]

Re: FROM HELL!!

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Russ, DOES THE CAM SENSOR TURN WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE????

Chuck, I'm gonna recheck that - I remember when I disassembled and cleaned the base, the reluctor wheel fit the shaft quite snug - I have no reason to believe it's not turning, but it's definitely worth a recheck.

Later,

 

[S10xGN]

OK, I'm back at it again, still no luck. This is what I've tryed since last time:

• did the C3I troubleshooting procedure - I have both injection and ignition, but NO START.
• checked battery voltage while cranking - showed 11.0, GM says anything below 9.6 is no good.
• adjusting cam sensor while cranking engine - no luck.
• tried new cam sensor cap - no luck.
• swapped back to stock injectors and chip - no luck (did have one horrendous BANG from the exhaust, though).
• jumpered coilpack module power wire straight to battery - no luck.

Still haven't recieved my coilpack and module from John DiCarlo, that seems to be my last hope...

This piece of cr@p passes compression check, has spark and fuel, but absolutely refuses to start! It did smell very gassy with the 50#'s in it while cranking and a little white "vapor" was coming from the pass side breather, don't know what's up there.

If I can't get it going soon, I'll have a major frustration attack and most likely sell the Buick motor and wimp-out with a generic LT-1.

Later,

 

[TRENT THOMPSON]

real dumb one but check your grounds the last time my car cranked as described my main ground ( at the turbo bracket ) was not attached made it sound like the battery was low

 

[John Larkin]

It's been 2 weeks. What ever happened?

 

[S2V6RACER]

Hopefully he didn't blow it and himself up. Or more important, he didn't put a distributor and a carburator on it and axe the turbo.

 

[S10xGN]

<LOL> No such luck. Some people have REAL jobs and must work for a living ... like me!

We tore it all down, checked everything (found NO clearcut problem) and it's about back together, but will have to wait for awhile. The cam *may* have been off some - we worked all day Saturday on degreeing the cam (my fault - sorry piece of cr@p degree wheel confusing my 50 YO half dead brain), the dang thing kept being off 10° but it was the way the wheel is marked. It is RIGHT now for sure.

I promised my son his engine swap this next week, so from Friday through next Thursday, we'll be installing a 385" roller motor in his (daily driver) Monte SS - my "toy" will have to wait.

I will keep ya'll posted!