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fuel pressure gauge how to?

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richy rich

Richy Rich
Joined
Apr 11, 2003
Messages
104
Hey folks,Im new here-Im installing an adjustable fuel reg on my 87GN Tommorow-Also will install a gauge,soo..I undo the end cap,unscrew the valve[from inside the shrader]Then does the new fitting screw inside the Shrader valve?Then from there get it to a 1/8 female pipe thread for my gauge-no problem-Just wondering on the brass fitting that screws into the Shrader valve-That be an Autometer 3275?Thanks for any help!
Rich!
 
Well, it depends what type of gauge you are using. Not sure what the Autometer 3275 is. There are pressure gauges that screw directly onto the rail without removing the schrader valve and others that do require removal of the valve. Just for example, I use the guage that Kirban sells. It's cheap and generic looking, but is accurate and attaches directly to the fuel rail.

Depending on what fitting you go with, it should be easy to tell if the schrader valve needs to be removed. If it is designed to be used with the valve it will have a little piece that will depress the valve as it is screwed onto the rail. Not difficult stuff.

BTW, the schrader valve can be removed with a paper clip. :)
 
BTW, the schrader valve can be removed with a paper clip. :)[/QUOTE]



Now you tell me:D
 
I'd go for the liquid-filled remote gauge w/ 3 ft braided S.S. extension hose you can bring out from under hood--tape gauge on windshield & real-life monitor FP. Also, rail-mounted gauges are often woefully innacurate.
 
Also, rail-mounted gauges are often woefully innacurate.

I'd have to respectfully disagree on that. I don't think it's a matter of how they are mounted, rather it's probably the manufacturer. However, there are innacurate gauges of all types. In my personal experience, I had the Caspers fuel gauge with extension for about a week and it burst for no apparent reason. Glad I smelled it before I had a fire. :eek: That one and the replacement one never gave consistent readings either. Thing is though, they look well constructed and everything else from Caspers has been top notch in my opinion...well except for the brass tee fitting thingy for the fuel rail. That thing is dangerously fragile. Just my .02

Sorry for the thread hijack.
 
I purchased one from Kirban, A little plumber tape screwed it on and works great. Does not vibrate, had it check for pressure accuracy against a real pressure gage and it was dead on.
 
K well turns out it was just a -4 male-off the fact. fuel rail,so I just used a -4 gauge adapter-or like one from an NOS purge kit-it has the 1/8 female pipe thread for the Autometer gauge-then capped the male end off the gauge adapter-K now it dentonates at 13 lbs boost or higher,w my new blue tops & RED 93 Armstrong Chip,Im still running fact pump[not hot-wired]will install 255lph Holley Pump tommorrow should that clear it up?-
 
anyone run the kirban's gauge with champion's billet fuel rail...i quickly looked it over and it doesnt look like it's going to fit? any ideas...thanks noah.
 
Im still running fact pump[not hot-wired]will install 255lph Holley Pump tommorrow should that clear it up?-

...Well, the pump should be hotwired no matter what. A new fuel pump/hotwire kit is one of the first vital upgrades that is a must for any TR. You must also get a scantool. If you can feel the car detonating, then your in for it. What kind of car and mods?
 
Car is stock,w a 9" Filter,new "blue tops",& 93 Red chip[yes for those injectors]-other than a valve cover breather-Thats it!
 
I'll stick with statistics, probabilities, & stay with the law of averages for remote vs. rail mounted--to say nothing of the usability factor for monitoring from inside cockpit (with a single strip of tape.:cool:
 
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