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fuel pump hot wire kit problems.

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torandiablo

New Member
Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
5
Hey guys im quite new to the turbo Buick scene and my 86 t type has a fuel pump hot wire kit. Im not sure exactly which one but it is hooked up to the alternator. It kept blowing 30 amp fuses until today it finally just shorted out and I couldn't even replace the fuse without it sparking and blowing the fuse instantly.

My main question I have for diagnostic purposes is do any of these fuel pump hot wire kits bypass the fuel pump jumper?

Even with the fuel pump fuse blown the jumper should kick the pump on correct?

Is the fuel pump relay on the firewall still in use with a hotwire kit?

Lastly, will a shorted oil pressure sensor cause the short with the fuel pump system?

Thank you.
 
Sounds like your actual hotwire line is shorted to ground.

You'll most likely have to bypass the hotwire kit to make the fuel pump prime lead run the pump.
 
Hey guys im quite new to the turbo Buick scene and my 86 t type has a fuel pump hot wire kit. Im not sure exactly which one but it is hooked up to the alternator. It kept blowing 30 amp fuses until today it finally just shorted out and I couldn't even replace the fuse without it sparking and blowing the fuse instantly.

My main question I have for diagnostic purposes is do any of these fuel pump hot wire kits bypass the fuel pump jumper?

Even with the fuel pump fuse blown the jumper should kick the pump on correct?

Is the fuel pump relay on the firewall still in use with a hotwire kit?

Lastly, will a shorted oil pressure sensor cause the short with the fuel pump system?

Thank you.
Look at it this way .... Your stock fuel pump wiring does not change when a hotwire kit is installed . The difference is your stock wiring " turns on " the hotwire relay instead of the pump directly . The hotwire kit is just a source for the high current needed for the fuel pump by the heavy 10ga wire from the alt. to the relay , through the relay ( which is energized by the stock wiring ) , to the pump . So anything not working with the stock set-up will effect the hotwire kit turning on . You can eliminate the hotwire kit at the back of the car by unplugging the stock wiring connector from the hotwire relay and plug it into the connector from the top of the tank that is plugged into the hotwire relay . Start there and report back . Good luck , Sam
 
Just unplug the connector at the tank and put another fuse in it. If the fuse blows again the problem is in the hotwire setup. May have pinched the hotwire to ground somewhere. If the fuse doesn't blow the problem is in the tank wiring or the pump itself.
 
Yes like earl band mike said follow that wire that goes from the alternator to the fuse to the relay to the tank check it it might be pinched and gone through the insulation . Or it could be in the tank .when I had this problem it was in the tank
 
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If you want to check just the hotwire side , first remove the relay at the back of the car , then replace the fuse in the hotwire feed. You do not need a 30a fuse to test if the wire is shorted to ground , anything less will blow with a short . If the fuse blows then you have a short to ground somewhere along that wire . Check that it didn't come in contact with the driverside header and melt through .
 
Bunch of assumptions here. We have no idea what kit he has. The relay could be in the front or the back. Or the kit could be home made and who knows how that's routed.

If you look at blown fuse closley you can get a hint of what you're looking for. If the 'horseshoe' part of the fuse lays over, leaves a mark on the plastic then burns in two, that's from high current. If you look at the plastic and the 'horseshoe' exploded radially, that's a direct short to ground.

You said you started off blowing fuses, then proceeded to basically exploding them. That means you had something causing a high current draw, then it progressed to a direct path to ground.

Like mentioned above, start unplugging everything you can and see when the blowing stops. In this case, the only thing to unplug is the stuff at the back end as the middle of the car only has a wire.
 
Did I miss this somewhere? Is the the hot wire fuse by the alternator blowing or the the one in the fuse box?
 
Sounds like the 30a hot wire fuse behind the alternator
 
Thanks everyone for the replies, I found the problem it was just a shoddy unclean install near the relay in the back of the car on the hotwire kit. A bunch of wires were ran with zero slack in the trunk and had ripped the relay from the actual casing and was grounding out. Thank you all though I understand how the hotwire kit works now and how it is ran in my car.
 
Good job !!

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