Fuel pump not coming on

[sams86gn]

Is there an easy way to check either possible problem?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Just need to do a visual for a pinched wire. If it is pinched it will likely be at the tank.

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[sams86gn]

Ok I dropped the tank and took the fuel pump out and hooked it up directly to my battery and it works fine. I don't see a pinched wire anywhere else. It is blowing fuses. Any ideas where a likely spot for a wire to get pinched?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Not a good idea to run the pump while dry. What you can do is this: reinstall pump into tank, put some fuel into tank (2 gallons?), run a rubber line from sender outlet to return at sender. Run pump from battery with a 10 A fuse in line.

If the fuse pops then either the sender wiring or the pump is bad. Note that it would be better to connect it to the actual fuel system. As the above method won't build pressure.

Maybe do this first, as it is quick & easy:

Check if the stock location fuse pops with the sender harness connector disconnected (key-on, engine-off). If it does then there is a short elsewhere in the wiring. Check the drivers rear corner in the trunk. That connector has the sender wiring for the gauge and the pump voltage.

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[sams86gn]

Not a good idea to run the pump while dry. What you can do is this: reinstall pump into tank, put some fuel into tank (2 gallons?), run a rubber line from sender outlet to return at sender. Run pump from battery with a 10 A fuse in line.

If the fuse pops then either the sender wiring or the pump is bad. Note that it would be better to connect it to the actual fuel system. As the above method won't build pressure.

Maybe do this first, as it is quick & easy:

Check if the stock location fuse pops with the sender harness connector disconnected (key-on, engine-off). If it does then there is a short elsewhere in the wiring. Check the drivers rear corner in the trunk. That connector has the sender wiring for the gauge and the pump voltage.

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alright...I disconnected the sender harness and the fuse still pops. Wiring in the drivers corner of the trunk looks fine to me. Should I just wait on the hotwire kit and see if that fixes my problem or will my factory wiring have to be in working condition for the hotwire kit to work?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

The hot wire kits that mount the relay by the tank use the factory relay & wiring to operate the hot-wire relay.

Another item to check, behind the alternator are two connectors that are left open. The one with the gray wire is the power lead to the fuel pump. Make sure that it isn't shorting on anything. Also check the wiring at the relay connector. And at the oil pressure switch.

The open green connector is a tach lead from the ICM.

Note that the FP/INJ fuse is supposed to be a 15 amp fuse.

Some other areas to check: that fuse feeds a pink/black wire that goes to the injectors, the FP relay, and oil pressure switch.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[sams86gn]

The hot wire kits that mount the relay by the tank use the factory relay & wiring to operate the hot-wire relay.

Another item to check, behind the alternator are two connectors that are left open. The one with the gray wire is the power lead to the fuel pump. Make sure that it isn't shorting on anything. Also check the wiring at the relay connector. And at the oil pressure switch.

The open green connector is a tach lead from the ICM.

Note that the FP/INJ fuse is supposed to be a 15 amp fuse.

Some other areas to check: that fuse feeds a pink/black wire that goes to the injectors, the FP relay, and oil pressure switch.

RemoveBeforeFlight

well...You were right again! It was the grey wire and had shorted out because a bald spot in the wire! You have no idea how much help you have been. Thanks

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Hey, good job finding the short. Now it's time to do some driving.

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