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Fuel pump primes....then keeps priming

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Boostian

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
616
Anyone run into this before? I'm going to replace my Hotwire kit and fuel pump (as they need to be done anyway) and the fuel pump relay.

When I turn the key the pump primes then keeps running.

Injectors are good (just cleaned/balanced with no issues).

Oh, car will not start either. Just cranks.
 
Oil pressure switch circuit short to ground. Check the injection fuse. It's likely popped


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Inj fuse is ok. This happened previously and I thought it was a stuck injector.

Guy who did the work on my engine stated the oil pressure switch was removed when the gauge was installed. It was not teed off.

He recommended changing the Hotwire kit as it was repaired at one time. And the fuel pump and relay.

Only reason I'm asking on here is because he stated he had never seen the issue that I'm having...
 
I had one do that, noticed some electrical tape on the wire's going to the oil pressure switch, when i unwrapped it some dumb-ass had taped bare wire's together.
 
Do you have fuel pressure , or are you just hearing the fuel pump running constantly ?
 
Even if the sensor is gone the circuit(s) could still be shorted to ground, worth a look.
 
X2 on the pressure. Fpr might be bypassing and the pump keeps trying to build pressure
 
Ok. It warmed up to a sweltering 45* today so I took a quick look. My sensor is teed off and still plugged in. There was electric tape wrapped around the plug and sensor, almost like it was attempting to hold the plug on the sensor. I cleaned it up, plugged it back in and boom, primed for 2 sec and stopped. Started right up.

Think I'll be replacing the sensor, or at least cleaning it up real good when it warms up some.

Anyone know if someone makes new plugs for the sensor also? Mine is pretty crappy.
 
The problem is the plug itself. There's a short in it. Caspers has the plugs


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Plug gets rotted w/ oil. Rubber part allows short, and or the plug to become disconnected.
I made a manifold for the electric gauge and the switch. Mounted it up at the AC box, ran -3 braided to it.
Did away w/ the mess.
 
Plug gets rotted w/ oil. Rubber part allows short, and or the plug to become disconnected.
I made a manifold for the electric gauge and the switch. Mounted it up at the AC box, ran -3 braided to it.
Did away w/ the mess.
Did you move everything? Pressure switch and gauge sender? I'm trying to picture this...

Bison, pacecarta, thank you for the info. I need to replace this switch.

Caspers is exactly what I need but I'm not sure it's worth paying the money plus shipping and still have to seal it up. I'd want to use some kind of heat shrink over the whole plug to keep it from gunking up quick.
 
i dont even run that switch , and the connector i cut of and tape up
if you do the switch is old and due for a failure (cracks and leaks) , it should be replaced before it fails and springs a major leak

as for the open unsealed connector it shouldn't need anything, just plug it in , works for the head lamps
 
i dont even run that switch , and the connector i cut of and tape up
if you do the switch is old and due for a failure (cracks and leaks) , it should be replaced before it fails and springs a major leak

as for the open unsealed connector it shouldn't need anything, just plug it in , works for the head lamps
Yea my guy said most cars he works on the remove the switch, cut the wires uneven and cap/tape them off and put them out of the way. I don't know what way I'm gonna go.

As for the sensor. It doesn't leak. My turbo return line does and the oil makes its way down there.
 
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