FYI ARP Head Studs for Iron Heads outer studs under valve cover too long.

[mgmshar]

Obviously, if I was doing this over, I would use two washers in those locations. Unfortunately, this issue wasn't discussed until several months after I installed the studs.

Let's be realistic here, many people have used these studs, and not everyone is having this issue. Every block is going to have holes tapped to a different depth, every cylinder head is going to be spot faced to a different depth, etc. It's unfortunate that ARP didn't account for this when they designed the studs, but we are where we are.

I spent a lot of time sealing up these studs and torquing them down very methodically. I don't want to risk screwing with that work unless I have some data to indicate that I might be at risk. If I know how many threads are protruding above the nut when the nut is bottomed, and the amount of threads I see protruding on my car is close to that, then I'll go through the risk of removing the nut and installing another washer. If the number of threads protruding above the nut on my car is way lower than the amount required to bottom the nut, then I'm not risking it.

It seems like a simple request of someone who has a set of these studs out of their car, maybe a vendor who has sets on the shelf - on the medium length studs, how many threads appear above the nut when the nut is run down until it stops at the shoulder?

Hopefully this makes sense to somebody else besides me!

Thanks,

Mike
Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible using Turbo Buick

 

[robztheman]

I had this same problem, I doubled the washers. With one washer and the studs screwed all the way in the block I would say that ARP should of added about two or three more threads on the fine thread side the nut didn't touch the washer. That being said I didn't notice it until I started torquing ( the first pass ). I believe that by the time you get to 85 foot pounds that the stud would tap the block and it wouldn't be a problem. The short studs didn't need 2 washers. My heads have been milled not sure how much the gaskets are RJC bullet proof.

 

[mgmshar]

I called ARP earlier today, and the person that I spoke to claims that nobody has called ARP to report this issue. I found that surprising. He wouldn't verify how many threads will stick up past the nut at the point that the nut bottoms, so that didn't help, either. He seemed to think it would be OK for me to remove one nut at a time, check where the shoulder is, and torque the nut back down. He believes that the RTV I used should not lose seal when I do this, since it remains pliable and should hopefully keep sealing even if the stud moves a little while I'm doing this. He thinks it should be OK to use a second ARP washer if necessary to add some more space.

If I'm going to take the nut off, there's no reason not to add another washer, so I guess I'll do it.

Pain in the butt.

If you had a verifiable problem with the nut bottoming on the shoulder of the stud before hitting full torque, I might suggest calling the ARP tech line to lodge a complaint. If enough people call, maybe they will fix it. For the price we pay for these fasteners, we shouldn't have to worry about this stuff.

Mike
Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible using Turbo Buick

 

[turbo nasty]

The guy i spoke claimed he was the guy that worked with Kenny D back in the day to make them. And like I said before it seems like it fell upon deaf ears as he didnt really care.

I even put in a response in their feedback/ issue area of the site at the same time.....no response.

 

[BadAssGN]

Here is a Photo of the Offending Stud with Nut attached and bottomed out on the shoulder.

 

[mgmshar]

Look like about 11 threads are exposed above the nut. When I get my car back, I'll see if I have close to that many - if I do, off they come!

Thanks a bunch for posting this, Mr. BadAss! Much appreciated. Nice pic, by the way - very clear to see.

 

[BadAssGN]

Look like about 11 threads are exposed above the nut. When I get my car back, I'll see if I have close to that many - if I do, off they come!

Thanks a bunch for posting this, Mr. BadAss! Much appreciated. Nice pic, by the way - very clear to see.

Your Welcome. Iphone makes it easy......

 

[novaderrik]

why would they design a head stud with that much extra length on the end? seems to me it could be about 1/2" shorter overall, with the threads tapped as far from the end as they are now. this would shorten the shank up enough to leave a lot of room to make sure that the nut doesn't bottom out no matter what head/gasket combo people are running.

 

[Just a Six??]

I would guess that exact stud is used on many applications besides Buicks?

 

[DoubleD]

Hmmm I guess I'll have to pull mine apart and check. Thanks for the heads up!

-D

 

[bison]

I've found them too close for comfort on just about every engine ive assembled. Even some of the aluminum head applications there were offending bolts

 

[Daniel Jost]

I will be pulling my heads off tomorrow, I will get some pictures of it before I take the nuts off. If I find them bottomed out I will take a picture, But I don't remember them sticking out this far when I built the engine as this would have struck me as a WTF am I doing wrong?

,Dan

 

[1quick87GN]

I brought this issue up over a year ago (March 2011). Here is the link. It seemed like most believed it was something I was doing.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/problems-with-arp-head-studs.342643/

 

[mgmshar]

I will be pulling my heads off tomorrow, I will get some pictures of it before I take the nuts off. If I find them bottomed out I will take a picture, But I don't remember them sticking out this far when I built the engine as this would have struck me as a WTF am I doing wrong?

,Dan

How did this come out? Curious to see your pictures and whether you found the nuts bottomed out...

Thanks!

Mike
Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible using Turbo Buick

 

[Daniel Jost]

Sorry guys I got caught up in some stuff here. When I pulled the heads I found it to be VERY close! I would say that the head reached torque before it bottomed out, ONLY BECAUSE OF THE 1 WASHER as the bottom of the threads were close to the mating face of the head where the washer sits. I'll try to scale down some pics from my phone and post them here.

,Dan

 

[Daniel Jost]

Here are the pictures of the stud with the head still installed, with the nut on and all the nuts removed. I think everyone could agree that is very close! The head went back on with 2 washers.

,Dan

 

[Slow91z]

We installed my heads yesterday and if i screwed the nut all the way down before I installed the studs there were 10 threads showing...with everything installed there were 6-7 threads showing.

 

[S10xGN]

It would have a more noticeable effect with milled heads, decked blocks, and thinner HG's...

 

[BOP4ever]

I user the 12 point nut head stud kit the more expensive of the 2 sets I saw when buying snd I dont remember the threads sticking above the nuts much at all . I did get 2 longer studs where the shorter one goes that would have created a issue.
Wonder if the cheaper set with 6 point nuts are not the same as the 12 point in length or something .

 

[trbojo]

CHRIST....something ELSE to worry about on these over expensive "expertly r+d'd" parts for these cars?!?!?!? how about new unmilled gn1 aluminum's with a .040 cometic??? it seems the bullshit never ends with these things anymore...about to sell it and buy something i can actually ENJOY........