G7 Hanger Assembly issue

[Pronto]

Ceramic balls are also used for mixing things like paint in cans and ball mills where they grind items smooth. Think pmoore4321 has it right.

 

[GNRick]

I couldnt get the -6 an (earls brand) return line to seal right near the tank. I first tried a cheapo china made piece (-6 with a 3/8 hose barb) in the fitting and tightened down. It leaked all over. Then I tried a russell fitting. Didnt work, still leaked all over.

I had bad luck with those Earls fittings when I tried installing my fuel pressure gauge. First one lasted a year, second one lasted a day or two. Turbofabricator referred me to a website that sells stainless steel fittings. Hasn't failed in 3-4 years now. I think maybe those Earls fittings are made for low pressure carbureated cars.

 

[Pronto]

JIC fittings are the same as AN. Lots of places online sell the JIC ss fittings. Some hose manufacturers use hose that need their specific fittings though.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

JIC fittings are the same as AN. Lots of places online sell the JIC ss fittings. Some hose manufacturers use hose that need their specific fittings though.

True! Very important to not mix and match hose and fittings from different manufacturers on the same assembly.

 

[GNRick]

So would you guys agree that Earls (and other aluminum fittings) have no place on fuel injected cars? I've seen them on turbo buicks and wondered how long they last.

 

[earlbrown]

IF you're not worried about pretty anodized colors, go with JIC. They're designed to handle 1000's of PSIs in very harsh environments.

And since they're steel, and not flashy, they're about 1/20th the price of an AN fitting. (and you can tighten the crap out of them in you need to with out making an aluminum coily

 

[Chevman2448]

This is for the return line under the car so it wont be seen anyways. I prefer the plain black ones myself and stay away from the flashy color AN fittings regardless of where they go. The line is earls, the fittings I was using were not Earls brand.

 

[earlbrown]

Measure the two and make sure one of them isn't 45*. It might be a silly solution.

A return line really has no load on it. The only pressure is pretty much flow restriction of the line itself and whatever curves and steps are in the ID.

 

[Chevman2448]

I figured out a way to do it with earls brand pieces. An Earls -6 converted to a NPT fitting with the same size brass fitting with a 3/8 hose barb. If that doesnt work the end probably isnt installed right. This is on the manufacturer's end since the hose I bought was pre-made.

 

[earlbrown]

if you have a leak with a hose barb and a quality clamp you must have slept with Murphys wife....

.....and his mother.

 

[Chevman2448]

LMAO....the leak was on the AN side thank you very much.

 

[Pronto]

So you used the racetronix piece that has a female an6 and a barb on the other end? I used that fitting for a while and it was fine. Some transmission sites sell the same fitting for an6 trans lines to 3/8" hose. I haven't seen any other conversion fittings in steel. If you can flare an sizes you could make a small length of tubing to adapt to the rubber hose.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Chevman2448]

I used the standard G7 pickup assembly. This is on the end of the return line itself. Im using rubber lines from there to the tank.

 

[Chevman2448]

I stated earlier that my boost gauge wasnt working. I think I know why. It is a boost only gauge and should be connected to a pressure source not a vacuum source. With that said where is the best way to connect it? Im not really sure I want to drill holes in the doghouse.

 

[Pronto]

Sounds like your issue with the line might not be the fitting its self. Are you sure you cut the hose good and square and have it pushed in all the way? The woven metal shielding can mess you up too. If it's not assembled right it will leak. The leak can look like it's coming out fitting. I would take the time to remove the fitting and double check how it was assembled.

Vacuum sources become pressure sources unless there is a one way check valve in them.

 

[GNRick]

Boost gauge installation. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/bgauge2.html

 

[Chevman2448]

Sounds like your issue with the line might not be the fitting its self. Are you sure you cut the hose good and square and have it pushed in all the way? The woven metal shielding can mess you up too. If it's not assembled right it will leak. The leak can look like it's coming out fitting. I would take the time to remove the fitting and double check how it was assembled.

Vacuum sources become pressure sources unless there is a one way check valve in them.

The -6 AN hose came pre-assembled. I didnt have to mess with the fittings. If that is the case it sounds like my Boost gauge is toast. I can hear the turbo spool but the gauge does not move.

 

[Chevman2448]

Boost gauge installation. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/bgauge2.html

That is how I installed the gauge. With a t fitting connected to what the map sensor connects to. Now I have it connected to where the charcoal canister was. A previous owner took the canister out.

 

[earlbrown]

I stated earlier that my boost gauge wasnt working. I think I know why. It is a boost only gauge and should be connected to a pressure source not a vacuum source.

where in the world did you have it tapped at? All the vacuum lines also see boost. That's the reason for the two check valves that keep boost out of the charcoal canister and the HVAC stuff.

 

[Chevman2448]

I had it tapped (originally) to the same source as the map sensor. Now its tapped where the canister used to be tapped. If the vacuum lines also see boost my gauge is no good. It will not move at all.


Earl, what are your Cr42's gapped at?

Edit: it appears that I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I tested the gauge with a compressor and it worked just fine. Time to go through the vacuum system.