I'll say this one more time then ignore it if you like, but Ive been in/built all types.
Ive owned late model mustangs and GN's. I'm VERy familiar with both and rarely had 1 day go by without having the hood up on either.
You need to make a powerband, and KEEP the motor in its powerband down the track. You need minimal loss of power to the ground in the first 330ft.
So like Ive said before.
Big turbo. I suggested a 62mm.
Comp cam beehive springs and caps and measure the installed height so they can get you the right springs and shims, BUT dont call them until you have the retainers off cause the keeper grooves tend to look like **** on the GN's and you may lose alot of seat pressure....you may need new valves and rule that our first. Very few people who change out springs inspect the keeper grooves.
Dutt neck will suffice.
Get an alky kit. ANY alky kit, as long as its not all ****ed up like the one I bought on the parts section here and spent 2 years band aiding to keep it working. Best to get alky control or SMC...but honestly, these days, SNOW has come up with totally unbeatable designs and nozzles with actual fluids engineering behind them that create AWESOME spray patterns and use MAF control so you always have the right amount of spray.
As usual Ive gone into too much detail...back to the basics again.
Create the powerband. Keep it in the powerband. Get there quickly and get it to the ground.
An Art Carr 16930 with about a 3600 FLASH stall will get you in the powerband QUICK.
The 62mm Turbo will MAKE the powerband.
The tall gearing will KEEP it in the powerband, if you run that converter. The difference between 3.36 and 3.42 is a stupid argument to have. Its damn near the SAME gear!!!!
Get GOOD tires and at the very least get some Pep Boys special shocks in the rear. You dont want the rear end loading and then rebounding which makes the whole thing pointless.