Girdled oil pan leak

[TurboWh1]

What process are you guys following getting the oil pan to seal up? I've had two rubber felpro perma dry gaskets on there and major failure both times. Thinking of trying cork and gluing both sides of the gasket. Also thinking of filling the counter bore holes with something to restore the mating surface potentially.

 

[bad V6]

Make certain all mating surfaces are clean, then clean again. I use a cork gasket with Permatex "The Right Stuff" on both surfaces, then torque to factory specs.

 

[TurboWh1]

Make certain all mating surfaces are clean, then clean again. I use a cork gasket with Permatex "The Right Stuff" on both surfaces, then torque to factory specs.

Thanks for the tip! I’m ready to try something new as what I’m currently doing isn’t working out so well. The right stuff is an excellent sealer! used it on my rear main and it did a nice job.

 

[Nick Micale]

You are "assuming" that the pan gasket is the culprit for your oil leak, and is not leaking at the girdle/block area?

When a cork pan gasket is properly installed, they seal extremely well w/o any sealer. It needs to be tightened over time in stages until it is finally compressed.

Using Right Stuff on both sides of a pan gasket is a nightmare if the pan is ever to be removed and replaced in the car?

The use of Right Stuff should have been used when installing the girdle to the block.

 

[TurboWh1]

I’m fairly confident that its not leaking at the girdle or rear main. The rear part of the block and flywheel are bone dry. I removed the pan already and I could see oil on both the girdle mating surface and the pan itself. The right stuff was used on girdle to block. I figured it would be a nightmare to clean up if I glue it but my oil leak is also a nightmare and I’ve installed two rubber gaskets. That pan is no fun to remove from an engine with a girdle. Let alone trying to toque the oil pan bolts in the car. My car is leaking like the Exxon Valdez

 

[Pronto]

My friend is trying a Cometics oil pan gasket on his TTA.

 

[TurboWh1]

My friend is trying a Cometics oil pan gasket on his TTA.

Let me know how it goes

 

[scgnx2]

Take a good look at the oil pan mating surface. When mine was leaking, I found some of bolt holes to be distorted from being over torqued. I literally took a hammer to straighten and make them rim flat. I used a cork gasket and its been dry since.

 

[ek02]

Use the RJC or TA pan gaskets. They are thick and seal well. RJC says to use The Right Stuff on the pan gasket but I always install the gasket dry and never had a leak. I also use the RJC crank scrapper.

 

[TurboWh1]

Use the RJC or TA pan gaskets. They are thick and seal well. RJC says to use The Right Stuff on the pan gasket but I always install the gasket dry and never had a leak. I also use the RJC crank scrapper.

I have a cork gasket but I have no idea where it came from. Was mixed in a box of parts with the last turbo regal I bought.

 

[Pronto]

From everyone I know that has done a pan gasket ( or many) they don't want the thin rubber style. Good point to check the pan flange.

 

[ITSAV6]

The thick cork is good, the thin rubber type don't do very good.

 

[TurboWh1]

Just ordered a cork pan gasket from RJC!!

 

[bison]

I charge at least $200 extra to remove and clean a girdled engines oil pan if it is rtv'd in place. Also on tear down in prep for machining I charge for the cleanup. I've spent over 2 hours removing rtv. Usually have to remove the girdle and drill it out or use small wire brush to get it all. Rtv floating loose inside the engine can lead to a really bad day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bison]

From everyone I know that has done a pan gasket ( or many) they don't want the thin rubber style. Good point to check the pan flange.

The rubber with a stock pan is perfect if the sealing surfaces are 100% oil free and the gasket and rear main side seals aren't cutting into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TurboWh1]

I've had extremely good luck with a rubber gasket on non girdled engines. I've installed 10 or so oil pan gaskets on stock engines with 0 issues. I'm 0 for 2 on girdled engines with non leaking pans. I hate to put adhesive on the pan gasket because I can definitely see how clean up would be a nightmare. I guess thats what beer and some tunes in the garage is for! I cant stand the amount of oil that is leaking. I'll probably glue the F@$k out of it but I'm not looking forward to the day I have to disassemble and clean up.

 

[Powertechn2]

I charge at least $200 extra to remove and clean a girdled engines oil pan if it is rtv'd in place. Also on tear down in prep for machining I charge for the cleanup. I've spent over 2 hours removing rtv. Usually have to remove the girdle and drill it out or use small wire brush to get it all. Rtv floating loose inside the engine can lead to a really bad day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rtv sucks to clean, a lot of the oem sealants are worse. Honda-bond is great stuff, but a bitch to remove. Way worse than RTV. As much as it is worse to clean up, it seals exponentially better. Just when you assemble something with it, you say a little prayer that includes something about having to not disassemble it ever.

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Im curious,why does girdled engine leak any worse than non girdled engine.

 

[TurboWh1]

Im curious,why does girdled engine leak any worse than non girdled engine.

There are counter bores in the girdle. The sealing surface isn't totally solid like the original pan surface. I'll post some pics when I'm home from vacation

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Ok, thanks for the reply.