for intercooled you need to find a 3.8T LC2 engine pulled as complete as possible , with engine wiring harness , ecu , relays , esc module, sensors, ignition module, coilpack and brackets , you dont need the dash harness but you will need to do your homework to integrate the lc2 engine harness needs to your vehicle
anything you're missing or want to upgrade youll need to buy and they wont be cheap and will add up the costs $$$$$ ..things like .120A alternator (170) , intake (250), injectors(300) and matching chip (85), manifolds (200-1000), turbo (600-2000), downpipe (50-600), intercooler (100-1000) , MAf sensor or tranlator and lT1 sensor ..(100-300) , and air inlet assembly and filter .. there goes another benjamin or two and theres some unique brackets to the lc2 for accesories that add up the benjamins oh and the belt tensioner isnt a cheap item or easy to get a hold of if you need one .
depending on what options you want like a/c , pwr steering etc youll need those items too for the LC2 as the ps pump is unique and youll need a remote reservior for it
you'll need electric fan(s) for the radiator
a trans that can hold the power of the turbo motor and a converter for turbo ( 2004r or a built BOP 350 or BOP th400)
you may need to get a driveshaft made to fit depending on the trans you go with
also the rear gears should be upgraded to 3.42 and might as well do a posi while your there
then you need an efi fuel system..inline or external pump or a custom fuel tank with a pump in it .
drop motor in and then wire it into your engines fuse block plug for starter and ignition, volt lamp, etc
, youll need to add some switched circuits to feed the coilpack
now youll have an almost 30yr old LC2 and all the fun that goes with ownership like fixing ,tuning and maintaining. at minimum you should have a scanmaster and boost gauge , if you dont have rally pak add an oil and water temp gauge and consider a fuel press gauge, and a wideband
also keep in mind that buying all as a pulled engine can save many $$ but any pulled engine is still a used engine and usually theres a reason it was pulled . even if the motor was running doesn't mean its without issues .. you really should refresh the motor and seals before it goes in its parts are almost 30yrs old and that includes the wiring so just getting it into the car is one thing at that point you now basically have a 30yr old car that may need work to getting it running properly and that can rack your brain but its is easier if the mechanicals are sound to begin with .. no blown head gaskets , leaking rear main seal, worn out timing chain , worn cam lobes, bad valve seals , bent pushrods , burned valves , leaking intake gasket
then theres the accessory stuff .. tensioner that bounces , ac compressor that needs replacing , ps pump that chirps, waterpump that weeps, thermostat that should be replace , throttlebody that needs to be rebuilt for shaft wobble and bad seals , turbo that needs rebuild (light oil smoke at tailpipes is not normal) , hoses and clamps at intercooler that need upgrading
then the electrical stuff like reman mafs that dont work properly , ignition modules that seem ok but go south when hot , plug wires that need replacing
and then you get to play the lets go faster game ..bigger turbo , alky , higher stall torque converter , bigger injectors , bigger inlet setup, better exhaust ., bigger downpipe , better heads ..maybe a roller cam
then the its fast it should be pretty ..so on goes the fancy valve covers , some chrome and the addiction known as powder coating $$$
in the end when it works the smile of acceleration makes all the aggravation , time and expense disappear .
