going on dyno - how do you think this combo wil perform?

[turbo84gn]

A very reputable shop did the head work, good valve job, intake seat 0.060-0.090-in. and exhaust seat 0.090-0.110-inch. I ported and polished the heads and chambers per the Buick Power Source Manual. I have not been getting any detonation that I know of, but I will spend a couple hours tomorrow morning with TurboLink making sure it is well tuned. The car is primarily street driven, never been to the track, yet. So it has been a while since I had T-Link connected. Did install a drive shaft loop a few weeks ago. Want to take it to Osceola some time this summer. Dyno test is tomorrow, May 28, 2010.

Converter is a D5 2600 stall from Level10.

FWIW - I wrote the rebuild guide on gnttype.org. Basic Rebuild Guide And I followed what I preached.

 

[Raist103]

ill go with 280-300

 

[Onalky87]

U guys woud no better then I would but I think 300whp with a cam 20# and a te44 seems low. But wat do I no. If that cars only 300 mine can't be more then 370whp on 24# :frown:

 

[Grumpy]

288 pump gas and 20#s

 

[pmoore4321]

Any updates?

 

[turbo84gn]

I haven't had turbolink hooked up for quite a while. Car is primarily street driven, runs fine, and no check engine light. Friday morning I hooked the scan tool up, and I was getting some real funky readings, with the key on and motor off. Was getting knock indications, water temp right then -40, prom id changing. One cycle of key gave me three malf codes, another gave me five, then the third gave me four, all with somewhat different codes. Even got the 53 code (I think) that t-link said was the water injection code that should never get set. One cycle even gave me a bad prom check sum. I reseated the prom chip (and little one next to it), no difference. Car runs too good to have all those problems, so I am suspecting t-link/laptop combo. Will try it out on the 84 sometime this week for a comparison. All that said, I did not take it on the dyno without a reliable scan tool at hand, didn't want to risk it. Sorry. I think I may invest in a knock sensor for the center console gauge pod. Still went in the open header cruise (took the plate of the TH down pipe). That was a lot of fun. Got a lot of thumbs up for the loud turbo whine :biggrin: Maybe next year.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

do yourself a favor and dont by the led gauge and put it in your center console.... IMO that would be worthless.... get an audible gauge, so you can keep your eyes on the road and all the other gauges, BOOST, Fuel, WBO2

a knock gauge down low would not do any good.... by the time you see it the damage would have already occurred.

 

[we4Mateo]

Every dyno is different too. I take the numbers with a grain of salt and I simply tune the car to get more out of it relative to what it did subsequent pulls, but IMO, trap speed at the strip is a better indicator of HP.

 

[buickruss]

I was at the Dyno waiting to see you run. I was interested to see what "our" combo would do. Hope you get the codes sorted out. You should bring it to Bunker Hill this June

 

[jasjamz]

Is this a new set of issues? Check the ECM connections for water. It can seep into that area an cause major issues. Check all of your ground connections too.

 

[pmoore4321]

Hope you get the probs sorted out

 

[marleyskater420]

I haven't had turbolink hooked up for quite a while. Car is primarily street driven, runs fine, and no check engine light. Friday morning I hooked the scan tool up, and I was getting some real funky readings, with the key on and motor off. Was getting knock indications, water temp right then -40, prom id changing. One cycle of key gave me three malf codes, another gave me five, then the third gave me four, all with somewhat different codes. Even got the 53 code (I think) that t-link said was the water injection code that should never get set. One cycle even gave me a bad prom check sum. I reseated the prom chip (and little one next to it), no difference. Car runs too good to have all those problems, so I am suspecting t-link/laptop combo. Will try it out on the 84 sometime this week for a comparison. All that said, I did not take it on the dyno without a reliable scan tool at hand, didn't want to risk it. Sorry. I think I may invest in a knock sensor for the center console gauge pod. Still went in the open header cruise (took the plate of the TH down pipe). That was a lot of fun. Got a lot of thumbs up for the loud turbo whine :biggrin: Maybe next year.

I had a similar situation where I got codes that clearly should never been set off. Turned out the ecm had water seeped into it. New ecm and problem solved.

Knock gauges are fairly inexpensive, and well worth it.

 

[forzfed]

I haven't had turbolink hooked up for quite a while. Car is primarily street driven, runs fine, and no check engine light. Friday morning I hooked the scan tool up, and I was getting some real funky readings, with the key on and motor off. Was getting knock indications, water temp right then -40, prom id changing. One cycle of key gave me three malf codes, another gave me five, then the third gave me four, all with somewhat different codes. Even got the 53 code (I think) that t-link said was the water injection code that should never get set. One cycle even gave me a bad prom check sum. I reseated the prom chip (and little one next to it), no difference. Car runs too good to have all those problems, so I am suspecting t-link/laptop combo. Will try it out on the 84 sometime this week for a comparison. All that said, I did not take it on the dyno without a reliable scan tool at hand, didn't want to risk it. Sorry. I think I may invest in a knock sensor for the center console gauge pod. Still went in the open header cruise (took the plate of the TH down pipe). That was a lot of fun. Got a lot of thumbs up for the loud turbo whine :biggrin: Maybe next year.

What version of TL are you running? I get the exact codes when I don't have the 9v battery hooked up to the cable.

 

[Onalky87]

Get the problem solved?