H&R sway bar rattling noise problem fixed.

Has anyone here ever experienced some rattling noise coming from their H&R sway bar?...I know where it's coming from...it's the 4 rod ends (2 left hand thread, 2 right hand thread) fastening the bar to the crossmember which are causing this noisy problem because the ball inside them becomes loose. I replaced all four with better quality ones (I hope!) with greasable fittings on them. The ones that came with the bar became noisy shortly after installing the bar...dunno why. I lived with that for three years but decided that enough was enough and replaced them today. The car feels much quieter now that it makes me wonder why I waited so long to fix this??...:rolleyes: I have several H&R products on my car and the quality is top notch, but what about their rod ends?...Maybe they're from another source, but I think they're not up to par with the rest of their products.

Claude :)
 
Has anyone here ever experienced some rattling noise coming from their H&R sway bar?...I know where it's coming from...it's the 4 rod ends (2 left hand thread, 2 right hand thread) fastening the bar to the crossmember which are causing this noisy problem because the ball inside them becomes loose. I replaced all four with better quality ones (I hope!) with greasable fittings on them. The ones that came with the bar became noisy shortly after installing the bar...dunno why. I lived with that for three years but decided that enough was enough and replaced them today. The car feels much quieter now that it makes me wonder why I waited so long to fix this??...:rolleyes: I have several H&R products on my car and the quality is top notch, but what about their rod ends?...Maybe they're from another source, but I think they're not up to par with the rest of their products.

Claude :)

I have the same problem.:( What Brand and where did you get the new Rod ends?

Thanks,
Guy
 
Same here and mine only been on the car a couple months. I wonder if they can be drilled and taped for grease zirk.
 
Part numbers and did you get the ones with grease seals on the outside?
 
Has anyone contacted HRpartsNstuff about this? I would think they would be willing to change them out or fix this problem.
 
The part numbers I got are: JMX-82 (2 of each -right hand thread) and JMXL-82 (also 2 each -left hand thread) but I'm not sure about the manufacturer. The thread is 1/2" UNF and they DO have some grease fittings but no grease seals on the outside...I must say that I did not think about calling H&R about them...:rolleyes: Although the car is quieter now, I don't know how long they will last, but I'm optimistic...they should be good for quite a while.:)

Claude;)

P.S: I'll get the name of the manufacturer and post it here tomorrow...
 
rod end info and part #'s...

Here's more info about the rod ends...They're "FK Bearings" part # JMX 8Z (right) and JMXL 8Z (left)...NOT "82" as I wrongly posted in my previous post...:redface:

Claude ;)
 
Guys this might be too easy,

But my H&R bar was making that awful rattling noise, and I finally got it up in the air on a rack that keeps the weight of the car on all 4 wheels and simply tightened the bolts up where the bracket attaches to the frame. After doing that I have no rattles at all on the car. Its a pleasure to drive again. That being said I am going to look into those part numbers.
 
But my H&R bar was making that awful rattling noise, and I finally got it up in the air on a rack that keeps the weight of the car on all 4 wheels and simply tightened the bolts up where the bracket attaches to the frame. After doing that I have no rattles at all on the car. Its a pleasure to drive again. That being said I am going to look into those part numbers.


Yep, that's basically the cause of the situation. The main cause for ANY rattling (in 99.9% of the cases we hear about) are the bolts not tight enough. This is ESPECIALLY true for the bolts that hold the upper rod ends to the crossmember brackets. When we weld the brackets up, the ears on it bend out slightly, which is great for ease of assembly. BUT, if you don't tighten the **** out of the bolts, there will be a slight clearance on the sides of the rod end to the bracket. All it takes is .001 and it will rattle. It will seem like the bolts are plenty tight, but you have to do extra there to bend the ears back straight & get them to clamp securely. After seeing this thread, I will have to do another install myself & actually get a torque spec for those bolts to ensure no rattles. My guess is after re-installing other rod ends, you probably bent them in the rest of the way & got rid of the rattle, and probably didn't have anything to do with the rod end themselves.

After 4+ years of selling these & LOTS of positive feedback, we have only heard of 1 person that thought the rod ends were worn out (from one of the very first bars we sold). I haven't ever seen any of our "worn out" rod ends if there actually are any out there. We buy the same top quality FK rod ends, but with a self-lubricating race so they do last a long time & don't rattle. They are the same rod ends we have been using for several years now, and are the precision 4340 Chromoly ones for heavy duty racing use.

Getting ones with a grease fitting is NOT recommended, because it lowers the actual rating of the rod end quite a bit. Anyone with our bar & rod ends can spray all the ends & hardware with WD-40 from time to time to flush off any dirt and help protect & lubricate them. We open up the packages and spray them down & make sure the balls are tight (but not too tight) before they get packaged up (like anyone else takes time to do stuff like that). We actually order them in a specific tightness (or fit) so they will move somewhat easy to transfer weight & not bind up, but also tight enough not to rattle for years. They also make seals that can be put on the sides to help keep junk out of them, but only knowing of possibly 1 set wear out in 4+ years, I didn't figure it was worth mentioning or offering. That's why we don't offer our rod ends as a separate item to order or replace, haven't had the need for it.

As mentioned in a post above, we can't stress the importance of letting us know if you have any issues with our products. 99.99% of the time it's a very easy fix & something might have got overlooked or done differently, and you shouldn't need to go and replace or buy anything else. We try to help when we can, but if no one lets us know, we can't do a thing about it. If ANYONE has our "old" rod ends out there that think they are worn out & had to replace them, I would REALLY like to see them. Might even give a T-shirt in trade for shipping expense etc.

I will personally make an effort to put an exact torque spec on that & make not to use WD-40 a few times a year to help with this issue. Basically the bolts we use there are 1/2" grade 8 with an all metal lock nut, and can take 90 ft/lbs oiled up or 120 ft/lbs dry. We spray them with WD-40 to help protect them & tighten up easier, so would "guess" 90-100 would be close. Doubt anyone with any rattles got close to that figure, especially with open end wrenches. Used to use the term "insane tight" for bolts like that & when you couldn't get in there with a socket :)

Just hard to keep up with everything & make updates to all the stuff at the same time. But when it will help you guys out, it needs to get done one way or the other. Just updated the sheet on the extra spacer washers to help make that easier to understand, since the picture was making it more confusing than it needed to be. Needed to do that for over a year now, but finally took time to do it after a couple customers let us know about it.

If you got any rattles, stick a torque wrench on the 1/2" bolts holding the upper rod ends to the crossmember brackets, and take them up to 80-90 and see if that doesn't fix it. I have broke the 1/2" bolts at well over 200 ft/lbs testing if the ends of the swaybar tubing would crush, and they didn't move at all :D
 
reply to Paul from H&R...

Paul, on my car, it was definitely not the crossmember bracket "ears" that were too much apart from each other...but rather the ball itself inside the rod ends that became loose, enough to cause the noise problem. I even showed them to Eric from Dynotech (from who I bought the bar) this weekend while at the "Buick Performance Weekend" event in NJ and he agreed with me that indeed the balls inside were loose...I still have them if you want to see them. Maybe installing greasable ones is not recommended...I don't know why not, but in my case, they solved the problem...
But don't worry, I'm not questionning the quality of your products...(I have your upper and lower control arms too and they're great!...)...I'm just explaining what I did to solve the noise problem ...
thank you,

Claude ;)
toofastforyou@sympatico.ca
 
Anyone with our bar & rod ends can spray all the ends & hardware with WD-40 from time to time to flush off any dirt and help protect & lubricate them


WD-40 is a degreaser and It will dry up in a matter of minuites. To suguest WD-40 as a lube does not sound very profesional.
 
Not true:

WD-40 works for 1000's of things, including degreasing stuff. It's main use is to displace water (WD stands for) and keeps stuff from rusting. It also flushes off dirt, lubricates, etc. It actually works better for rust corrosion than our commercial anti-rust spray we have at our machine shop.

Welcome to WD-40 * Our Brands: WD-40 Product Information

Nothing like this lasts forever, but been having good luck with WD-40 and it doesn't harm the powdercoating.
 
First, I don't have any of HR parts products on my car. I could sure use some, (100 % stock chassis car) but other things take precedent sometimes over the fun stuff. Anyway, not to steal the thread or anything, but I just want to take time to thank Paul for his reply. Alot of time, especially in big business, such a small market as our cars would be just a side thought. It really makes a positive statement that he came on here and explained in detail some of the secrets and some of the "special" features of parts that he has developed and marketed. They may show up next week in a Hong Kong knock-off, but he still came on here and educated us about his product without being offensively defensive, or just plain rude, about it.
I am sure this candor will play a part in someone decision to not buy a Hong Kong part and spend more money to buy the original stuff. I know it does mine. I.E.: I feel that I was more than able to build my own alcohol injection but due to the positive comments about Razor's kit and the fact that I see him on here answering questions and being a member of this community and not someone out here just trying to make a buck, I purchased his kit. I even passed over some quality kits for less money from other vendors and I am glad I did. When the time comes I'm sure that I'll be just as glad to be a customer of yours.
Thanks again Paul for being the kind of vendor we can respect.
 
Right! WD works great to bust rust

WD-40 works for 1000's of things, including degreasing stuff. It's main use is to displace water (WD stands for) and keeps stuff from rusting. It also flushes off dirt, lubricates, etc. It actually works better for rust corrosion than our commercial anti-rust spray we have at our machine shop.

Welcome to WD-40 * Our Brands: WD-40 Product Information

Nothing like this lasts forever, but been having good luck with WD-40 and it doesn't harm the powdercoating.

But I speak from experience and WD-40 does not last. Not trying to bash anyone the bar is a great product but WD-40? Come on!
In this day and age there are allot better products you can use for lubrication and longevity. Spray some WD-40 on anything and come back tomorrow and see what you find. Dry as a bone! It will work great for cleaning but don't expect it to last.
I find Slick 50 in a aerosol can is a good long lasting lubricant. Come back in a month and its still there.
WD does not even come close to the last-ability of Slick. Check it out and see what you think. ;)
 
<snip>WD does not even come close to the last-ability of Slick. Check it out and see what you think. ;)


Will give it a try, always open to ideas that improve things. Thanks!
Most people don't have special stuff to use, and most people have WD40 around, and is DEFINITELY better than nothing even if it doesn't last long. Check out all the uses it has, it's amazing! Getting sticky tape & bugs off are the ones I like :)

I spray a lot of stuff a few times a year with WD40, and it seems to keep the rust away even after it dries up. Like I said, against our commercial version of anti-rust, spray 2 parts & leave them outside or inside, and the WD40 holds up better. Might be time for the shop to look for better stuff, but they buy it by the 55 gal drum :eek:

Also getting the "rattling" rod ends back to look over & see what's up. The ones mentioned above are from a bar purchased in '04. We did get similar rod ends from both QA1 and FK bearing back then, plus had some high strength ones without the self lubricating material (told would not rattle as quick). Will need to see which ones they were & see what happened there. I am pretty sure it's not a big or common problem from all the feedback we got so far, but want to be 100% sure all is well & as good as it can be. Any rattling issue for the last couple years have been easily fixed by tightening up the bolts as mentioned above.

Appreciate the comments corsair231. I like to make sure everyone is happy for years with our stuff, and also fine tune what we got going on now to make it even better if possible. Of course spending too much time on customer service might be why I could never get caught up or get new ideas going. Kinda double edge sword there when you are a small biz. Got it handled now, got full time help & building is almost done & setting up my own shop here, good things coming soon! Pretty much caught up now, and back-orders get shipped MUCH faster these days. Got more info in the other vendors forum/cust service posted there. Will update any info I find out when it's available.
 
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