Have fuel pump now, need suggestions on rest of combo...

J Banning

Quench my thirst with C16
Joined
May 25, 2001
Ok, here's the deal.

I now have the following (thanks to a VERY generous b-day gift from my friends) :) :
- Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump (#11104). 12AN inlet, and -10AN outlet.
- Aeromotive 100 micron fuel filter (#12302). -12AN In/Out.
- Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter (#12301). -10AN In/Out.
- Competition Engineering Fuel Tank Sump.

QUESTIONS:
1) Would you recommend using a sump on the factory tank, or going to a cell? Does the baffle inside the factory tank need to be cut out? (Note: I'm short on time and cost is a concern).
2) What feed line to the rail do you recommed? -8, -10?
3) How about a return? Can I use the factory feed as my return, or should I go with a -8?
4) Where's the best place to mount the pump and TWO filters if I, 1) keep the factory tank and use a sump, and 2) ditch the tank and go to a cell. (Note: Pictures would be much appreciated.)

Thanks guys. Looking forward to seeing some of you at the Nats in May.
-Banning.
 
The Eliminator pump

I'm running the same pump on my Mustang. It's a 10AN from the tank to the pump, 8AN to a Y-block, then 8AN to each rail. I'm running a 6AN return through a 3-port Aeromotive regulator, billet rails and MSD 50's.

A few things with that pump...
If you're using this pump on the street you definitely should have a voltage controller (AM has one). These pumps have to be mounted lower then the pickup point in the tank. The pump should be powered and grounded with at least 12ga (10ga would be better). Use the largest fuel line possible going into the pump and use the correct filter before the pump. Sometimes people put their 10 micron filter in front of the pump instead of the 100 micron.

A few fab shops can sump the tank for you. Try Rhodes Custom Auto (www.rhodescustomauto.com) in Delaware. I actually think the factory baffling is cut out and they use a different baffle.
I'd think 8AN to the rail would be plenty. Are you going to use stock rails (anybody make an aftermarket rail for these cars?)? Most of the Mustang guys running these pumps mount them low and in front of the tank. Of course, the Mustangs have a nice spot on the tank cover for that. I'm sure a bracket could be fabbed out of aluminum plate for this in a G-body.
Sean.
 
Re: The Eliminator pump

Originally posted by Snorman
...If you're using this pump on the street you definitely should have a voltage controller (AM has one).

Why??
 
There have been lots of guys having problems with those pumps burning out on the street. The voltage regulator will allow it to maintain constant idle pressure, but will decrease the volume.
The controller varies voltage based on RPM and can be calibrated based on the application.
That pump flows tons of fuel (something like 800lbs/hr. at 42 or 45psi), so dialing it back during cruise mode is definitely beneficial.
Conversely, I've heard of guys running the 11101 and 11104 pumps and having no problems without a controller. But I'd definitely consider it with the -04.
S.
 
Banning, This is what ive done on my car. Some may disagree with it ,U know about using such a big pump and lines...but I sure dont have to worry about fuel... It has worked like a charm for several years and its safe.

I use the stock feed for a return with absolutely no problems. This is with a Weldon pump. I ran it like this with a stock sumped tank and now with a 10 gal alum cell in the trunk. I use Aeroquip pushlock nylon braided pushlock hose from front to back.

If you sump the stock tank it is imperative that you follow the instructions from what ever sump you are using. If you do not, it may lead to the car stalling when you hit the brakes unless the tank has lots of fuel in it. Ask me how i know....

I have some pics i can send you, just have to find them . I just installed a Weldon with PTE pre and after filters on a friends GN. I have to get pics of that. Email me directly.
 
Louie: You have an email.

Others: Do you really think I'll need the Aeromotive controller for this pump? What are the REASONS why I'd want to run this? This is something I was not expecting. Not to mention that one of the reasons I wanted to go to a single pump was to reduce the chance of failure (one pump instead of two). Now, if I have to run this piece, what happens if it were to fail?

Thanks,
-Banning.
 
Banning, Im resurrecting this thread to see what setup you ended up going with and what were the results??
Thanks,
 
Sorry about that! Here's your update...

I used all the items in my 1st post of the thread (see the top of the page).

First off, I could not have put all this together without the help of Jack Cotton of Cotton's Performance (www.cottonsperformance.com). Thanks Jack!

1) On the fuel cell, I did NOT use the two -8AN ports. Instead, as Jack Cotton & Aeromotive both recommended, I cut a hole in the cell and used a -12 bulkhead fitting, and ran a -12AN line straight to the first filter which is mounted directly on the pump body.

I put a plug on one of the -8AN fuel cell fittings, and a cool drain valve from Russell (or one of the other major fitting manuf.) on the other port. This is VERY nice to have. Actually, I just used it tonight.

2) I did NOT use the fuel controller. I don't drive the car often, but when I do it is usually 30-75 mile highway stints to our car club meets. I've had no problems.

3) I ran -10AN from the fuel pump to the rail, which Jack Cotton welded a -10 fitting onto.

4) I also bought a Accufab FP regulator (also from Jack) that he welded a -6AN fitting onto. I had planed to run a 3' length of the --6AN to the factory fuel hardline on the frame rail, but gave up on trying to flare the hardline and get the associated fittings to work. Instead, I ran -6AN from the rail all the way back to the rear axle. There I spliced into -8AN that I already had (using a -6 to -8 male adapter) that goes to the fuel cell.

5) I run a -8AN line for the vent. It goes into a bulkhead fitting in the trunk floor and vents to atmosphere.

Hope that helps. :)
 
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