Head studs

blackbox

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2004
Hey guys this my first head gasket install. i am about to put my heads back on and have a set of head studs that im going to secure them with. The engine is still in the car and the arp studs are the ones with the allen key on top. Anyway i was told to put some type of sealant on the lower threads going into the block and then wipe away excess that oozes out of the holes. This procedure is with the block out of the car. My question is how do you wipe away the excess sealant if the studs are installed after the heads are in place.
 
I'd think if you go easy on the sealant there wouldn't be any excess to "wipe". Feed 'em in carefully and just go finger-tight. If they're new, don't forget to torque-cycle the nuts and washers 5 x's as per instructions (I'd do this before adding sealant and using an old head gasket). Then do your permanent install with the sealant.
 
Hey guys this my first head gasket install. i am about to put my heads back on and have a set of head studs that im going to secure them with. The engine is still in the car and the arp studs are the ones with the allen key on top. Anyway i was told to put some type of sealant on the lower threads going into the block and then wipe away excess that oozes out of the holes. This procedure is with the block out of the car. My question is how do you wipe away the excess sealant if the studs are installed after the heads are in place.

Take the bolt in and out 3 times so the sealant is thru all spots of the threads, id do more than just the first set of threads, id go all the way up and wipe off the excess. Let it set. Then assemble.
BW
 
Just torque them through the torque cycle five times to stretch the studs to their maximum. Torque them in four steps to the maximum value. Then loosen them and do it again, and again , and...............5 times. THEN do it one more time with new gaskets and sealant. Be sure to use the supplied lubricant on both sides of the washer and on the threads (upper section.) Use yuor old gaskets for the first five torquings.
 
so when i do the first 4 its without sealant and do i have to pull the stud completly out every time. Also i was told to strip the black coating off the studs do i do the top and bottom threads or just the bottom.
 
Also guys if i should remove the black coating should i do it before the torque cycle or on the final install. I also read to let the sealant cure for 12 hours or more before adding on the bolt and doing the final torquing. This procedure was with loctite 567
 
the bolts cam without instructions. Could some one post the proper way to torque down the ARP head studs. What are the values in what order and what sequence on the heads please? Thanks guys sorry for all the questions just want to do my first head gasket right.
 
Sorry, took a day off from the boards... Straight from ARP's site. Pay attention to #3, ARP studs come with the black oxide coating and I'd leave it alone if using their torque numbers.

"If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP research has verified the following “rules” pertaining to use of a torque wrench:

1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.

2. The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it’s ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less torque, special low friction lubricants are available. With special lubes, the required torque can be reduced as much as 20 to 30 percent. It is important to keep in mind that the reverse is also true. If the torque value has been specified for a particular fastener on the basis of low friction lube, installing the fastener with motor oil will result in insufficient preload; the torque has to be increased to compensate for the extra friction caused by the motor oil.

3. Surface finish is also important. For example, black oxide behaves differently than a polished fastener. It is therefore important to observe the torque recommendations supplied with each fastener."

Here's a chart (bottom of page) for the correct torque pattern, also try ARP'sFAQ for any other questions.
 
The studs are new so i need to torque cycle them. Do i do the torque cycle with the sealant already on the threads or do i wait till the final install. also do i pull the whole stud out with every torque cycle or just back off the nut and retorque?
 
The studs are new so i need to torque cycle them. Do i do the torque cycle with the sealant already on the threads or do i wait till the final install. also do i pull the whole stud out with every torque cycle or just back off the nut and retorque?

Save the sealent for the last one(final install), You do not have to take the stud all the way out just back the nut off a little.
 
thanks, what do you guys use to clean the block. I used a brilo pad(green dish ones) and it made a mess and did not take off some of the black baked on stuff.
 
Just torque them through the torque cycle five times to stretch the studs to their maximum. Torque them in four steps to the maximum value. Then loosen them and do it again, and again , and...............5 times. THEN do it one more time with new gaskets and sealant. Be sure to use the supplied lubricant on both sides of the washer and on the threads (upper section.) Use yuor old gaskets for the first five torquings.

good info ill try it on my block once its done
 
Hi,
I think you guys are being a little excessive. Torque the damn studs down to the value that came with them,on the box, and don't worry about excess sealant or any other mess.This is no Ferrari engine, nor does it even come close.The ARP GUIDLINES ARE FOR RACE MOTORS,and I doubt any of us can lay claim to owning such.Remember where you are on this one....
 
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