Help please.
- Thread starter Rob lange
- Start date
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williamsGN
'Horse sneeze' addict
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2007
- Messages
- 2,122
Cant find a good picture.. could try gnttype.org .. I couldn't find a good one. Here is a gasket shot you can use for reference.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...iidqmZ8znn8?itemIdentifier=68204_270025_3457_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...iidqmZ8znn8?itemIdentifier=68204_270025_3457_
set the cover flat on a work bench and start dropping bolts in. The should all stick up about 1/2". On the two SAE bolts with built in studs, the longer of the two go on the bottom/drivers side. The metric studded bolt(for not reason) goes through the water pump. The shortest small bolt is for the timing tab. The shortest thicker bolt is hidden to the right of the oil pump. You should have two bolts the same length... They go outside the water ports going into the engine without passing through the water pump. The 4 short fine thread bolts hold the water pump pulley to the water pump.
Make sure to clean the treads and apply sealant to all the bolts that pass into water or oil jackets. The easiest way is to just put sealant on all of them.
Oh, nd put anti-seize on any steel bolts that thread into aluminum.
You should have a bolt sticking up the same height as these in every location when the cover is sitting on a bench.
Make sure to clean the treads and apply sealant to all the bolts that pass into water or oil jackets. The easiest way is to just put sealant on all of them.
Oh, nd put anti-seize on any steel bolts that thread into aluminum.
You should have a bolt sticking up the same height as these in every location when the cover is sitting on a bench.
Just an update got the new timing chain installed, new cam button,oil pump thrust plate,and gears,cam sensor set with the kirbin tool,new timing cover,new high flow water pump and 160 thermostat,new oil pan gasket,and cleaned the pick up screen which was just about covered in crud (glad i did it).Also found some bad vac hoses on the turbo and actuator, replaced those,and now the car runs like a champ. All because I had a leaky crank seal! still waiting on my new wire set and intercooler hoses from kirbin. Once again thanks for the help to all!
Replacing those hoses on the turbo and actuator saved your bacon. Those things failing can blow the engine to pieces if they fail. Make sure to safety wire or zip tie them in place. It is VERY important that they maintain a good seal.
Ok, Will do.the old ones were all crumbly and half rotted, and I could never get the boost adjusted just right,I kept turning the rod out until there was no preload on the actuator, when i replaced the hoses the car was only making around 8 psi of boost! After preloading the rod I have it right around 15-16-psi with no knock showing on the scanmaster.
Thanks for the note on the vacuum hoses on the wastegate celenoid and turbo, will be replacing today.
I figured they'd be what ensures wastegate actuates, without that I can imagine the problems you'd have.
What is the best way to test the actuator? Bench test? How does the wastegate work? Does the vacuum come from the turbo?
Thanks,
Joel
I figured they'd be what ensures wastegate actuates, without that I can imagine the problems you'd have.
What is the best way to test the actuator? Bench test? How does the wastegate work? Does the vacuum come from the turbo?
Thanks,
Joel
pressure from the turbo physically pushes the wastegate. When the wastegate moves it dumps exhaust out without driving the turbo. The "boost setting" is a balance point between how must pressure is in the compressor housing .vs how much exhaust you dump to make that pressure.
If the wastegate hoses have the slightest pinhole the exhaust doesn't get dumped, boost shoots through the roof, and then you start a thread titled 'What's the best headgasket?"
Here's the test for all hoses under the car. Replace the wastegate hoses, they are bad (much in the same way all guns are loaded)... they're bad, replace them. On all other hoses, if you touch them and your fingertip is black as coal, it should have been replaced about 5 years ago. Oh, and stick the check valve in your mouth... If it blows and sucks (like my exgirlfriend) they need replacing too.
Years ago I remember some Toyota tecs talking about putting a hole in a supra's wastegate line with a needle and adding 100hp. Don't know how much I believe that 100 hp claim, but you know how dyno racing tuna's can be.
If the wastegate hoses have the slightest pinhole the exhaust doesn't get dumped, boost shoots through the roof, and then you start a thread titled 'What's the best headgasket?"
Here's the test for all hoses under the car. Replace the wastegate hoses, they are bad (much in the same way all guns are loaded)... they're bad, replace them. On all other hoses, if you touch them and your fingertip is black as coal, it should have been replaced about 5 years ago. Oh, and stick the check valve in your mouth... If it blows and sucks (like my exgirlfriend) they need replacing too.
Years ago I remember some Toyota tecs talking about putting a hole in a supra's wastegate line with a needle and adding 100hp. Don't know how much I believe that 100 hp claim, but you know how dyno racing tuna's can be.
the solenoids are pretty bulletproof. If you can't blow through it, it should be fine. Oh yeah, when you replace the wastegate hoses MAKE SURE the "Y" is installed correctly. You'll notice one ear has a small brass orifice in it. That one faces the turbo.
Thanks earl I was not aware of the brass, will pull appart tonight and re-do. Thank you very much for calling this out.
At the same time the hoses i got at pep boys were not very sturdy, they were vacuum/washer hoses, I just purchased dedicated vacuum hoses.
Joel
At the same time the hoses i got at pep boys were not very sturdy, they were vacuum/washer hoses, I just purchased dedicated vacuum hoses.
Joel
