Alright guys...I was racing my buddys '96 Cobra, I got him off the line, and was on my way to victory, when a loud "pop" happened...the SES light came on, and when I gave the car gas, it kinda putted, or surged. I pulled over and parked it, shut it off, turned it back on, and no light. As I pulled away, I gingerly hit the gas, and it's like the turbo spools, and nothing happens...I get a little boost, but not like before it happened...Also, the engine compartment smelled of oil...I didn't see any, and the ground below was dry, but I could surely smell it...Please help, I'm devistated!!! Thanks
...help!!!
- Thread starter John84GN
- Start date
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Can you give us some more facts...did you see any knock on the scantool? (if you have one)
Can you hear a leak/hissing from where the turbo goes into the intake?
Are there bubbles in the AntiFreeze overflow tank?
Any Smoke coming out of the tail pipes?
Can you hear a leak/hissing from where the turbo goes into the intake?
Are there bubbles in the AntiFreeze overflow tank?
Any Smoke coming out of the tail pipes?
That's weird that the SES light came on. I would normally think you blew out the 0-ring but maybe not. Maybe your MAF went out. How does the car idle? Unplug the sensor and if it idles better (won't drive all that well) that's proabably your problem. Do you have a scantool to see what's going on?
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I just got an Idea....since the SES light came on follow this link, and get the code..that will help ALOT!!!!
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html
sorry guys...no scantool...I wish...but I'm just getting into the turbo "stuff"...no leaking, or hissing, but I do know that I have a small hole in the up-pipe...and the new on is already on order from ATR. I didn't notice any air bubbles in the overflow tank, and also didn't see any smoke from the tailpipes...also, the car idles fine, and if you drive it like "it has no turbo" all is good, it's just when I want to get in to it. The oil thing just has me almost to tears...I just bought the car a week ago, and today was the first time I drove it
...Any other thoughts...thanks
...Any other thoughts...thanks- Joined
- May 24, 2001
John..take a look at that link I gave you..even tho you dont have a scantool your GN does!
You can draw codes from the ALDL connector under the dash...just read the link...when that SES light goes on it means that there is a new code (could be pointing to what is wrong, and will make your life easier) And the code can be read with a paper clip....read a little bit of it..it should help you out!
You can draw codes from the ALDL connector under the dash...just read the link...when that SES light goes on it means that there is a new code (could be pointing to what is wrong, and will make your life easier) And the code can be read with a paper clip....read a little bit of it..it should help you out!
herb....did I mention that when I shut the car off when I pulled over, and then restarted it, that the SES light went out?!? It's been out and hasn't come back on...just from the time of the "pop" till I pulled over and restarted her...does the link you sent me still apply?
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Yes..it should still apply..as long as that light gets turned on when the car is running it should store the code...just go check it....ground out the 2 top right hand ports on the ALDL connector..you will see the light flash once, and then 2 times in a row..it will flash once, and then two times fast 3 times (that is the normal diagnostic code)
After it flashes the "12" 3 times it will display any error codes that occured if I flashes another code other then "12" then THAT is your trouble code...should take about 1 min tops!
After it flashes the "12" 3 times it will display any error codes that occured if I flashes another code other then "12" then THAT is your trouble code...should take about 1 min tops!
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
look below were the t/b bolts to the turbo at the bracket were the turbo sits in .
the top of the bracket is slotted and ive had mine acually lift the turbo up off the adapter from the mounting stud not being tight enough.....it would run fine till boost.
I MIGHT HAVE ASKED BEFORE BUT WHERE IN VA. ARE YOU?
the top of the bracket is slotted and ive had mine acually lift the turbo up off the adapter from the mounting stud not being tight enough.....it would run fine till boost.
I MIGHT HAVE ASKED BEFORE BUT WHERE IN VA. ARE YOU?
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
John, YES, the computer will store the code for whatever caused the light to come on!
NOW, lets see: describe the "pop"...like a loud balloon? Gunshot? A "bang", like something smacked the hood? A "boom"? (just trying to get a fix on the noise!)
Could the oil smell possibly be anti-freeze? Or rich exhaust maybe?
I'm wondering if maybe the MAF or TPS puked and it leaned out and backfired thru the intake? That may account for the oil smell, by forcing a ton of air thru the breather...and (hopefully not, but) it could've bent the hell out of the intake-side turbine blades, which would account for spool, but no boost...
first step is get the trouble code(s).
NOW, lets see: describe the "pop"...like a loud balloon? Gunshot? A "bang", like something smacked the hood? A "boom"? (just trying to get a fix on the noise!)
Could the oil smell possibly be anti-freeze? Or rich exhaust maybe?
I'm wondering if maybe the MAF or TPS puked and it leaned out and backfired thru the intake? That may account for the oil smell, by forcing a ton of air thru the breather...and (hopefully not, but) it could've bent the hell out of the intake-side turbine blades, which would account for spool, but no boost...
first step is get the trouble code(s).
I have no clue what the hell these mean, but the light blinked 3 times paused, and then blinked 4 times, and paused, it did this sequence for like 3 or 4 times, and then the sequence changed to 4 blinks and then 2...and it repeated this sequence a couple of times...hop this helps...I can't decifer it BFH...the sound was like a balloon...quik and loud, followed by a sudden loss of power. and no, the smell was definately oil...dunno from where, actually, is sorta seemed like it was coming from the driver-side rear, close to the firewall; now top or bottom, I couldn't tell ya. (It's kinda windy here) Red's...In Danville, about 3 hrs your east.
BFH...the sound was like a balloon...quik and loud, followed by a sudden loss of power. and no, the smell was definately oil...dunno from where, actually, is sorta seemed like it was coming from the driver-side rear, close to the firewall; now top or bottom, I couldn't tell ya. (It's kinda windy here) Red's...In Danville, about 3 hrs your east.- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Keep playing with the codes...Just count out the 3 "12" codes, and then after those pay attention to the length of time between blinks..some times it is hard to tell the codes..it takes some practice!
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
1 Flash, A little break, and then 2 flashes back to back.
Each flash counts as 1...just count them in your head...you just need to get used to the back to back flashes, and the breaks between flashes.
so it would flash like - --, - --, - --, Error code, Error Code, Error code, - --, - --, - --
- = one flash
Each flash counts as 1...just count them in your head...you just need to get used to the back to back flashes, and the breaks between flashes.
so it would flash like - --, - --, - --, Error code, Error Code, Error code, - --, - --, - --
- = one flash
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
John, the sequence of blinking is your trouble codes! The first number of blinks is the first digit of the trouble code, the second number of blinks is the second digit...Therefore, 1 blink followed by 2 blinks = a code 12. (The ECM repeats each code THREE times, then moves to the next code. When all codes have been displayed, it will start over with code 12.)
Code 12 means the ECM isn't seeing a pulse from the crank sensor. You will ALWAYS get a code 12 simply because the engine isn't running!
From your post, it seems you have a code 34 AND a code 42. Code 34 is a MAF sensor code, and code 42 is an ignition module code.
There are 2 MAF trouble codes (33 and 34), yours is as follows: (quoting my manual) "To set a code 34, the engine must be running with the MAF sensor disconnected, OR the engine must be running at more than 1400 rpm with the TPS signal more than 50% (2.5 volts), and the air flow less than 10 grams per second (low frequency). A loose or damaged air duct can set a code 34"
(quoting my manual again) "Code 42 indicates that the ECM has seen an open or grounded bypass or EST circuit with the engine running"
Here's my diagnosis, for what it's worth...I think your ignition module took a dump while you were in WOT, and you had an intake backfire, and it's possible it blew the intake tube off the MAF sensor or the throttle body! This would account for the trouble codes! CHECK ALL THE INTAKE TUBING! Hopefully you'll find a disconnected tube, which will answer the MAF question.
The hard part is the ignition module. It could as simple as the connector plug needs some attention!
After this happened, the ECM went into "limp" mode, meaning the ECM is using default values in place of the sensor values to determine fuel & timing, etc. These things don't run very good in limp mode, especially if the ignition module isn't working AND the intake pipe is loose or disconnected! Some good news is, you're turbo is probably just fine!
Hope all this makes sense, let us know what you find! (just remember, whatever it is, it'll fix!)
Code 12 means the ECM isn't seeing a pulse from the crank sensor. You will ALWAYS get a code 12 simply because the engine isn't running!
From your post, it seems you have a code 34 AND a code 42. Code 34 is a MAF sensor code, and code 42 is an ignition module code.
There are 2 MAF trouble codes (33 and 34), yours is as follows: (quoting my manual) "To set a code 34, the engine must be running with the MAF sensor disconnected, OR the engine must be running at more than 1400 rpm with the TPS signal more than 50% (2.5 volts), and the air flow less than 10 grams per second (low frequency). A loose or damaged air duct can set a code 34"
(quoting my manual again) "Code 42 indicates that the ECM has seen an open or grounded bypass or EST circuit with the engine running"
Here's my diagnosis, for what it's worth...I think your ignition module took a dump while you were in WOT, and you had an intake backfire, and it's possible it blew the intake tube off the MAF sensor or the throttle body! This would account for the trouble codes! CHECK ALL THE INTAKE TUBING! Hopefully you'll find a disconnected tube, which will answer the MAF question.
The hard part is the ignition module. It could as simple as the connector plug needs some attention!
After this happened, the ECM went into "limp" mode, meaning the ECM is using default values in place of the sensor values to determine fuel & timing, etc. These things don't run very good in limp mode, especially if the ignition module isn't working AND the intake pipe is loose or disconnected! Some good news is, you're turbo is probably just fine!
Hope all this makes sense, let us know what you find! (just remember, whatever it is, it'll fix!)
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
John,
FIRST-- is your curved intake pipe still connected to the MAF sensor and the throttle body? I think your oil smell may just be some that got puked out during your "pop" and burnt on a header, probably the drivers side! Also, smell around the coil and ignition module to see if the oil smell gets stronger...
I have a troubleshooting flowchart for the ignition module, but it's too small to scan, so I'm going to try to reproduce it so I can post it! In the meantime, unplug the long plug on the ignition module (under the coilpack) and look for anything obviously wrong, like loose or broken wires or bad corrosion.
FIRST-- is your curved intake pipe still connected to the MAF sensor and the throttle body? I think your oil smell may just be some that got puked out during your "pop" and burnt on a header, probably the drivers side! Also, smell around the coil and ignition module to see if the oil smell gets stronger...
I have a troubleshooting flowchart for the ignition module, but it's too small to scan, so I'm going to try to reproduce it so I can post it! In the meantime, unplug the long plug on the ignition module (under the coilpack) and look for anything obviously wrong, like loose or broken wires or bad corrosion.
BFH...I haven't started the car since last night (not sure what to do next)...besides looking for something obvious, first...should I start the car w/o reseting the computer, and do you think that by reseting the comp. that this will solve the problem...thanks
