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Here are some drilled rotors for ya!

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DailyDrifter

The Slow and the Curious
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,118
This was on a Porsche 996, the guy did race it on road courses. These rotors are about 13" diameter. I just posted this picture to show people what happens to drilled rotors after abuse. I've tried cutting rotors similar to this but the cracks are still there. Enjoy
 

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YEP! That is what usually happens to Drilled rotors!

That's why it's better to go with Slotted rotors instead! ;)

If you look at that better you can actually see that the cracking starts from the hole and works it's way outward...

Looks NASTY.... :eek:


SW.
 
Are those the stock discs? How much track racing did he do? Did they ever fail? Did he ever crash?

Just buy more discs! You own a 996 for ****'s sake!:biggrin:
 
YEP! That is what usually happens to Drilled rotors!

That's why it's better to go with Slotted rotors instead! ;)

If you look at that better you can actually see that the cracking starts from the hole and works it's way outward...

Looks NASTY.... :eek:


SW.

I always hear people saying to go with drilled rotors :rolleyes: , so I figured I'd post some "Real World" results. I myself have powerslot rotors.

Are those the stock discs? How much track racing did he do? Did they ever fail? Did he ever crash?

Just buy more discs! You own a 996 for ****'s sake!:biggrin:

You would be suprised how cheap Porsche owners are at times :eek: . I'm not sure how many miles the car was driven on the track, and I believe they are stock rotors. No he didnt crash, but you can run into problems if you keep driving like this. I would hate to be going 100 mph and have a chunk crack off :eek: .

I cut a pair for my buddy's porsche one time that looked like the rotors above, I told him not to race with them, but of course he doesnt listen :rolleyes: . For average street driving I would think they would be OK, but when you start to severly heat cycle them you are going to have problems.
 
At one of our car club meets a number of years ago we were lucky enough to have a tech session held by a couple of Baer's big wigs!

The told us, in no uncertain terms, there's NO PLACE for cross drilled rotors on a street driven car. Slotted yes, drilled no. They will always crack and need replacement on a regular basis, which is not conducive to a daily driven ride.
 
Look at these big bastards!

CCRM rotors. This is a 20" wheel.
 

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Eh rotors were meant to wear out anyways...:biggrin:

Personally, I just prefer the look of drilled rotors... Cryoing them can also help to reduce this effect.

What people never say about drilled rotors is that they crack when they get into the "red hot" zone... If you're DD brakes are getting red hot, then you need to slow the hell down! You see cracking on road race cars and race cars mostly.

The only real performance advantage of drilled rotors is mostly from reduced weight... they are mostly for looks. Slots do the cooling, drilled just makes them look cool!
 
Yep, I like the dimpled or like Scott said, slotted rotors best. My ACDelco C5's are drilled but I was unable to find any dimpled or slotted ones. The ACDelco's are what came stock on the C5's so I hope they are quality. I'll probably never really get the brakes red hot but I do a little punishing on them. I started out with standard flat C5 rotors but just didnt like the looks of them. They did work great with the Hawk pads though!
 
I dont have a problem with drilled rotors, they do let the gases escape during high speed brakeing, But on a daily driver there is no need for it. Slotted rotors do the same thing as drilled, but I have never seen a slotted rotor crack.
 
Drilled and slotted rotors are useless unless it's a race car. More cost and hassel than anything. Manufactures have finally started getting smart and only slotting them in the middle rather than going right to the edge because it is very common for them to crack at the edge.
 
As far as vented rotors its a toss up...Good compound that doesnt gas and is a bit harder on the rotors or better rotor life due to less aggresive compound pads.

Its a whole science in braking components. Biggest thing in our Buicks is the factory rotor doesnt exihibit enough brake torque for the weight of the cars.

Pad and rotors (better quality stuff) can help but can only do so much if the brake torque isnt there. Slotted or vented
 
Hey Guys,

Here is my 2 cents.. for what it is worth :)

99% of the drilled rotors (or any surface modifications, slots, dimples etc) are purchased due to cosmetics. They were originally designed for outgassing of brake pads. Pad technology has gotten MUCH better, and this isnt so much of an issue nowadays with better quality pads.

For street use it is not an issue (usually) since in most cases these cars will never see the abuse a track car will see. For track cars we do not recommend drilled rotors. The thing is with track cars in most cases rotors will fail due to cracking (even when plain). All rotors are basically grey cast iron and they can take only so much abuse/heat cycles before they fail.

The biggest issue with the factory brake system is the rotor is small, straight vaned (left and right are the same), and the caliper is cast iron so it has poor heat dissipation, and real poor recovery when it gets heat soaked.

So basically they are cool looking, ok for most on the street... and not recommended for track.

:)
 
I have been told that Porsche actually casts the holes into some of their rotors!
Conrad
 
Hey Guys,

Here is my 2 cents.. for what it is worth :)

99% of the drilled rotors (or any surface modifications, slots, dimples etc) are purchased due to cosmetics. They were originally designed for outgassing of brake pads. Pad technology has gotten MUCH better, and this isnt so much of an issue nowadays with better quality pads.

For street use it is not an issue (usually) since in most cases these cars will never see the abuse a track car will see. For track cars we do not recommend drilled rotors. The thing is with track cars in most cases rotors will fail due to cracking (even when plain). All rotors are basically grey cast iron and they can take only so much abuse/heat cycles before they fail.

The biggest issue with the factory brake system is the rotor is small, straight vaned (left and right are the same), and the caliper is cast iron so it has poor heat dissipation, and real poor recovery when it gets heat soaked.

So basically they are cool looking, ok for most on the street... and not recommended for track.

:)

Hey Rick,

While we got you here.... what pads does BAER use/recommend with their systems [i think mine is the 13.1" Track, with PBR calipers].... i noticed the ones that came with it dont "dust" as much as the other pads ive used before on other vehicles..... and would like to keep it that way.:cool:

thanx and love the setup you sold me over 5 yrs ago.... ps NO CRACKING:eek:, not a daily but far from a garage queen
 
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