Pittsburghkid
Displacement Replacement.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2009
Post where you're located. There may be someone nearby who can help you.
Hi, can you guys help me a little with some answers?
- Thread starter forcedinduction
- Start date
forcedinduction
move it like this'''''
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
im in long island ny
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
If unplugging the hotwire kit got the pump working take a look at the hotwire to see if has a blown fuse in it. The Racetonix hotwire kit has a fuse block that is attached to the back of the alternator. After you get the headgaskets done you are going to have to figure out why they blew; not enough fuel, too much timing, low octane, too much boost, electrical issue, bad injector, etc, etc...
Ill try and knock some of your questions off the list. Clean the surface with a cleaner that does not leave a residue. I used acetone when I did my head gaskets. Make sure the surface is spotless and devoid of any leftover materials. Clean well around the dowel pins. Lay the gaskets on dry, there's no need for anything to help seal, if done right with stock style gaskets. The bolt holes are crucial. Clean them the best you can. Brake and carb cleaner work great to blast all the grime out. I did that, blew in there with my air gun, then cleaned again with acetone.
You need to use a sealant on the studs! The bolts go right into the water jackets in the block. I used loctite 567 I believe. Ill have to check that when I get home. You can get the driver's head on with the studs in place, but not the passengers. Take some sealer of choice and put it in all the holes. Put the head on, align with dowel pins, then screw in each stud. I trick I heard from Bison is to place the studs in the head, then wrap a rubber band around the studs. That will keep them in place. Remember to also coat the studs in sealer. I don't think you can use too much, but I could be wrong. When I screwed in the studs on the passengers side, just a tiny bit pooled around the stud when fully tightened.
Use the ARP lube! I bought a big container of it and coated the washers, threads, and nut. This will allow proper torque to be obtained. Torque down, go have a beer, sandwich, soda, what have you, wait a couple hours. Go bsck in there, back the nut off a quarter turn, torque again. You will be gtg. I was told to check torque after applying boost but I haven't had the chance.
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You need to use a sealant on the studs! The bolts go right into the water jackets in the block. I used loctite 567 I believe. Ill have to check that when I get home. You can get the driver's head on with the studs in place, but not the passengers. Take some sealer of choice and put it in all the holes. Put the head on, align with dowel pins, then screw in each stud. I trick I heard from Bison is to place the studs in the head, then wrap a rubber band around the studs. That will keep them in place. Remember to also coat the studs in sealer. I don't think you can use too much, but I could be wrong. When I screwed in the studs on the passengers side, just a tiny bit pooled around the stud when fully tightened.
Use the ARP lube! I bought a big container of it and coated the washers, threads, and nut. This will allow proper torque to be obtained. Torque down, go have a beer, sandwich, soda, what have you, wait a couple hours. Go bsck in there, back the nut off a quarter turn, torque again. You will be gtg. I was told to check torque after applying boost but I haven't had the chance.
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TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
To add to above. I used brake cleaner to clean the surfaces. I kept a rag over the valley and have head of others that squirt some foamy shaving cream in the cooling ports to keep debris out.
I bought a top end kit from full throttle. It was around $90. Victor Reinz. I figured it would have all the gaskets and an extra set for the next time. I also went with studs but since only one side was blown only one side of my engine has the studs. If it ain't broke don't fix it is what my grandfather used to tell me.
I used Indian head shellac stuff on the studs that go into the block. I've heard the loctite 567 is good too but I've not used it . I have used the Indian head stuff successfully countless times on many different engines. Also good for front cover bolts that go into the water jacket.
Post up with any more questions.
Not hard. Take pix. Put it back the way you took it apart. Don't over think it.
Rich
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
I bought a top end kit from full throttle. It was around $90. Victor Reinz. I figured it would have all the gaskets and an extra set for the next time. I also went with studs but since only one side was blown only one side of my engine has the studs. If it ain't broke don't fix it is what my grandfather used to tell me.
I used Indian head shellac stuff on the studs that go into the block. I've heard the loctite 567 is good too but I've not used it . I have used the Indian head stuff successfully countless times on many different engines. Also good for front cover bolts that go into the water jacket.
Post up with any more questions.
Not hard. Take pix. Put it back the way you took it apart. Don't over think it.
Rich
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
dartguy340
T-Type guy
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
NOT CHARGING
-thecar had a huge stereo system in it with quite a few amps that were removed prior to me getting the car. leaving me with a ton of audio wires and some aftermarket alternator that is NOT CHARGING. but the alternator tested ok. how can I go back to a stock alternator? also the volts light does not come on but I am getting 12v to the alternator input (so I assume the bulb is ok or it was bypassed by the prior owner).
The volt light on the dash needs to be working for the alternator to charge. Check the bulb/wiring. Do a search for how to remove the dash bezel. It's not hard to do.
-thecar had a huge stereo system in it with quite a few amps that were removed prior to me getting the car. leaving me with a ton of audio wires and some aftermarket alternator that is NOT CHARGING. but the alternator tested ok. how can I go back to a stock alternator? also the volts light does not come on but I am getting 12v to the alternator input (so I assume the bulb is ok or it was bypassed by the prior owner).
The volt light on the dash needs to be working for the alternator to charge. Check the bulb/wiring. Do a search for how to remove the dash bezel. It's not hard to do.
forcedinduction
move it like this'''''
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
thanks.
so far I bought the head gaskets
bought a full spring cleaning kit that I pieced together
ordered the studs
bought the vacuum tubing.
is there anything else I need to buy beside some thread sealer?
what are sealing tabs? I have never heard of them.
is this the correct intake manifold gasket? http://www.pepboys.com/product/deta...ntake_manifold_gaskets_components/?quantity=1
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/84939-felpro-ms96033-intake-gasket.html
Looks like someone else used that valley set. This is why I ordered the stock victor reinz set from full throttle. Though I don't think it came with the valley pan. I believe I reused it. Been a few years and I don't remember.
http://www.hardwarestore.com/indian-head-shellac-gasket-compound-613357.aspx#1
Also, pay attention to the L bracket that goes from the head to the alternator. You need it or the bracket cracks. It only goes on one way.
The seal tabs go into the radiator when you are done. It helps seal up any weeps in the gasket.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Looks like someone else used that valley set. This is why I ordered the stock victor reinz set from full throttle. Though I don't think it came with the valley pan. I believe I reused it. Been a few years and I don't remember.
http://www.hardwarestore.com/indian-head-shellac-gasket-compound-613357.aspx#1
Also, pay attention to the L bracket that goes from the head to the alternator. You need it or the bracket cracks. It only goes on one way.
The seal tabs go into the radiator when you are done. It helps seal up any weeps in the gasket.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Yes that is the right intake manifold gasket. Sealing tabs are used to stop cooling system leaks or prevent them you can get them at an GM dealership in the parts dept. just ask for them they will/should know what they are.
forcedinduction
move it like this'''''
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
Im getting spooked by this job because its my 1st time and this car is so sensitive and not very forgiving. if there is anyone who as experience on long island ny who is willing to come and help me I am willing to pay you.
forcedinduction
move it like this'''''
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
thanks for the supportIm in Connecticut. Dont let it freak you out. We are here to help. Post pics when you get stuck. We will get you thru it. Then you will have to upgrade to the coveted gold membership.
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I assume I will have to remove the turbo and front wheel to get to these aftermarket headers right?
