Hi, can you guys help me a little with some answers?

forcedinduction

move it like this'''''
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
I bought this 86 gn 3 days ago as is not running, but it had a great body so I decided to make a project out of it. he told me that he had a heavy modded engine in the car that blew up on him so he decided to have a fresh crate engine installed which he did and showed me receipts for. that worked great for him until he started noticing white somke from the turbo side of the engine bat and both tail piprs upon aceleration. so he put the car away for a few months. so when I looked at the car it would crank but would not start. but I took it anyway.
I started at the beginning with a cold comoression test and everything tested between 145-150. I didnt do the oil in the hole test because at the time I was just trying to get a baseline if the car had compression or not. I threw some new plugs in there. I looked at the turbo and I dont think its a stock turbo (maybe you guys can chime in and tell me). so I have compression, I have spark, so im guessing it was a fuel related problem. so I disabled the fuel pump hotwire and reconnected the pump to the stock fuel power feed and she started right up.
now my questions are:

WHITE SMOKE
-what do you guys think is causing that white somke? I was thinking head gasket at first but the compression is fine and there is no "mud" in the oil and no oil in the coolant. there is a lot of somke coming from the turbo and it has minimal shaft play but its there.

NOT CHARGING

-thecar had a huge stereo system in it with quite a few amps that were removed prior to me getting the car. leaving me with a ton of audio wires and some aftermarket alternator that is NOT CHARGING. but the alternator tested ok. how can I go back to a stock alternator? also the volts light does not come on but I am getting 12v to the alternator input (so I assume the bulb is ok or it was bypassed by the prior owner).

RUNNING IN OPEN LOOP

-the car stays in open loop and makes no difference if I disconnect the maf sensor. I tested this with a known good maf sensor. also can anyone tell me what size injectors these are?

CEL LIGHT ON

-I know I need a scanmaster but I wont have it till next week.

any help form you guys or girls would be awesome. I owned an 87 gn back in 91 and it was the best..
thanks for reading my thread

btw there is no bottom end noise at all. all that noise is coming the turbo and pulley area.
 

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Coolant getting by a head bolt. Oil has a blue tint.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 
White smoke. That's usually coolant. I would start there. I blew a headgasket one time and couldn't find coolant leaks anywhere. Checked everything and just couldn't find evidence. Pulled the heads and sure enough. Do a leakdown test. A compression test won't always show a blown head gasket.
 
thanks for your input guys :)
well that was just it I cant determine if the problem was headgasket related or turbo related.
what type of head gaskets do you guys recomend? and Im assuming arp head bolts right?
 
Inrxperienced builders may overlook the head bolt.

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X2 on the leakdown. Then put a squirt of oil in the hole and leak it down again. Remember, you don't know the history of this engine.

Are you getting spark? Fuel pump running, does it sound strong? Fuel pressure?
Lots of stuff to go over, especially after it has set.

Mine ran with this.
PICT0068.jpg


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You don't even know yet whether the head bolt threads were even sealed properly. You need to know that before a re torque.

That's one nasty looking WRONG alternator!!!.
 
If the bolts are tty, then tossem and get some nice arp units. Not intended to be tightened twice. ..:)

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how hard is the head gasket to do on this car?
im a motorcycle mechanic but I koow a little about cars.
is there a how to writeup on the headgasket?
 
Well, we've all done it once or five times...:)
Not hard imho

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Stock GM, Victor-Reinz or Felpro 9441pt are all good sets. I run the Felpros on my new setup.

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The Fel-pro 9441pt head gaskets work great. I have only blown 1 set of head gaskets and they were stock and that was in 1997.
 
should I order the arp head stud kit 123-4003? or 123-4203?

They both will work. It all depends on if you want regular hex head nuts or 12 point nuts, as you can see the regular hex nuts will save you some money. I use the 12 point nuts head stud kit on my engine.
 
They both will work. It all depends on if you want regular hex head nuts or 12 point nuts, as you can see the regular hex nuts will save you some money. I use the 12 point nuts head stud kit on my engine.
I just ordered it. but I would be lying if I said that I wasn't a little scared to do this job by myself. I wish there was a good step by step write up on how to do this the right way. I still have a ton of questions like
-what should I use to clean the deck surface?
-do I need to do anything to the head bolt holes in the block? clean? coat with anything?
-do I need to re prime the lifters? or can I just leave them alone?
-after I drain the oil and remove the heads should I flush the block/oil pan out with anything to flush out any coolant in the pan?
-do I put anything on the head gasket of deck surface? oil? or just dry?
-after everything is put back together do I need to prime the oil pump? how?

I have a pretty good idea on how to do it but I know how picky these cars are and I don't want to mess it up.
 
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