hood cowl weatherstrip removal

[bad2bone]

? on underwood heat removal
? on sideways or torrential rain storms and the coil pack getting wet -
After removing cowl weatherstrip i put a 16" strip of insulation just covering area that is above coil pack ;that hopefully will stop water getting on it? Any Ideas?
Looking for input from those who have removed and what circumstances they have incurred along with any custom ideas
Thanks for your replies

 

[Boostrules]

I thought it would allow heat to escape and actually lets air enter from windshield area thus less air goes thru radiator and is counter productive in running cooler engine temps.

 

[Nick Micale]

I thought it would allow heat to escape and actually lets air enter from windshield area thus less air goes thru radiator and is counter productive in running cooler engine temps.

The simple way to prove removing the cowl weather strip is good, first put your hand at the base at the windshield when the engine running is at operating temp, then remove the rubber and see how long you can keep your hand there, maybe a couple seconds.

When the car is moving at all, ambient cooling air will flow around the engine and out at the windshield, or you could install GNX vents in the fenders.

Another "internet falsehood" is removing the thermostat will run hotter because water flows too fast?

With our usual summer temps at 110 deg. or better, we have lots of experience keeping turbo cars "cool"!

 

[Jerryl]

Here is a good post with video.

Question on radiators

During the summer months I always remove the rear hood gasket that lets more air exit the engine compartment. That's a high pressure area, not a low pressure area. If it does anything, it pressurizes the engine compartment and lowers airflow across the radiator the faster you go.

www.turbobuick.com

 

[earlbrown]

That's a high pressure area at the base of the windshield. That's why ''cowl induction hoods'' are a thing.

Kinda hard to let the air out when it's a pressurized area. Some does make it out at rest though. You can tell because the HVAC intake can move engine smells into the cabin for you at red lights.

 

[WE4REAL]

Mines been removed for years. I did leave a piece around the small area around the HVAC inlet to maybe block some hot underhood air. My car runs fairly cool. Mine stays garaged so I don't know about the weather question. I don't have the baffles around the radiator either anymore.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

That's a high pressure area at the base of the windshield. That's why ''cowl induction hoods'' are a thing.

Kinda hard to let the air out when it's a pressurized area. Some does make it out at rest though. You can tell because the HVAC intake can move engine smells into the cabin for you at red lights.

This.
And I tested it, with actual measuring equipment:

https://www.andrewdscott.com/?p=481

If you remove that weather strip, at speed the high pressure area at the base of the windshield will actually force air into the engine bay from the back. Depending on how fast you're going, it can get bad enough to stall airflow through the radiator.

The best place to put a vent is just ahead of the bulge. It's a low pressure area on top of the hood, and a high pressure area below it where air coming through the radiator slams into the SLIC or the front of the engine.

But leave that weather strip installed. It's there for a very good reason.

 

[bad2bone]

This.
And I tested it, with actual measuring equipment:

https://www.andrewdscott.com/?p=481

If you remove that weather strip, at speed the high pressure area at the base of the windshield will actually force air into the engine bay from the back. Depending on how fast you're going, it can get bad enough to stall airflow through the radiator.

The best place to put a vent is just ahead of the bulge. It's a low pressure area on top of the hood, and a high pressure area below it where air coming through the radiator slams into the SLIC or the front of the engine.

But leave that weather strip installed. It's there for a very good reason.

thanks for reply - had enough answers to deduce the cowl hood weatherstrip in place is best choice. Whats interesting is that when my bumper fillers were gone it seemed to run cooler and faster. I saw an old f body car they did a custom rework on the front ent to allow air through front air dam of car. This was performed by putting a new piece in place of existing frontal area of car.

 

[Anthony P]

This.
And I tested it, with actual measuring equipment:

https://www.andrewdscott.com/?p=481

If you remove that weather strip, at speed the high pressure area at the base of the windshield will actually force air into the engine bay from the back. Depending on how fast you're going, it can get bad enough to stall airflow through the radiator.

The best place to put a vent is just ahead of the bulge. It's a low pressure area on top of the hood, and a high pressure area below it where air coming through the radiator slams into the SLIC or the front of the engine.

But leave that weather strip installed. It's there for a very good reason.

well done Andrew!

 

[TTipe]

well done Andrew!

This test was done well. Supportive data is running on the streets & drag strips (ie; hellcats, Mustangs, Camaros etc.) that have OEM hood vents.

 

[bad2bone]

thanks for input- anyone have specs or step by step application of cutting into front of bulge on hood and creating a vent (no leaks)?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

thanks for input- anyone have specs or step by step application of cutting into front of bulge on hood and creating a vent (no leaks)?

Don't cut the OE steel hood. Get a fiberglass one.

Then it's just a matter of laying out the template for the vent you're going to use, drilling a pilot hole, and cutting it out with a jig saw.

 

[Jerryl]

Food for thought;
In the locations listed by Andrew, do you want to create an high pressure inlet, or a low pressure outlet?