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How are these end play measurements?

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Morkai

Morkai the Red
Joined
Nov 24, 2002
Messages
295
Well, I got about .020-.022" on the rear endplay with the yellow washer. I would like it under .010, but I haven't been able to find a larger washer around here that's not too big. Will this be fine?

Also, get about .025" on the center, between .045-.050 together with the output shaft free.

Are these acceptable? For some reason I had it in my head that I wanted the rear to be between .005 and .010, but to clean it up anymore I'd have to wait til next week for a washer. Gotta get this back in the GN this weekend or I don't have a ride for work next week. :o
 
Front pump end play

Well, got everything setup to check the pump end play, set the dial on it and zeroed it. pulled up on the input shaft easy until I heard the snapring cluck, reading was .028" Then pulled up hard and got about .040, so by my calculations I have .012" end play on the front. That's plenty within spec isn't it?
 
Thanks for all the help..

Why'd I even bother asking if no one is going to answer me?

You know, it's my first rebuild, I thought I'd get a little more help. I don't know if I'm even going to bother posting results...
 
End Play

My father and I are rebuilding his transmission now and we got about 0.019" on the rear endplay (with yellow washer) and we're working on the front unit now. We have the art carr rebuld kit with shorter 4th clutch piston. We have a lot of play (at least 0.125") in the 4th clutch assembly. Can you comment on that? It seems like a lot. I called Art Carr and they said the piston should be shorter than stock by an amount equal to what the extra clutch disc is, but the extra clutch disc is only 0.077" and the piston is about 0.125" shorter. I just received a blue rear washer in the mail. I don't know if my father's going to want to use it, if not I can sell it to you if you want to get your rear end play down to maybe 0.017, but it's probably okay at 0.022.
 
Morkai,
The endplay specs are not ABSOLUTELY critical, as long as it is not so tight at to get in a bind on thermal expansion and not so loose that everything rattles around....
I like to keep the reasonably tight myself, but the killer on trannies usually, if the endplay is very loose, and you are manually downshifting it causes the planetaries to change their thrust direction and beats up the parts.


65malibu
As far as your extra clutches.
You have to add an extra friction and an extra steel. so the steel thickness plus the friction thickness is probably roughly .125"
 
Thanks...

Thanks guys for replying. Seems I haven't gotten much feedback here lately. It was very time critical, so I went with what I had. I had no time to wait for another washer, or I would've gotten one from gm direct.

The tranny is in the car now and has about 400-500 miles on it, as I had to work this past week. It's still shifting mighty firm! :D

I guess I did something right or she'd be toast now. My only complaint is it shifts a little 'to' firm at low throttle. I guess that's due to the transgo full race reprogramming kit that was in it.

I'm probably going to hook the gauge up sometime this weekend and check the main line pressures. (didn't have time last weekend) BTW, I also added a 2800 lockup stall.

65malibuss, I have an old carr unit in the shop I plan to rebuld later on, I'll go out and check the 4th pack in a few.
 
4th clutches

From my limited experience, from the factory, 4th had-
steel
friction
steel
steel
friction
pressure plate
I had the thickness of 1 friction removed from the 4th piston. This has worked well for me.
 
4th clutch

65malibu, I checked out the one I have, and it only has 3 steels and a pressure plate...and 3 clutches. It's suppose to be about 3 years old though, maybe they changed something.
 
4th Clutch

Thanks for the replies on the 4th clutch.
I measured the new one and old one and the difference does in fact equal the thickness of the additional clutch disc.

I have another question now.
We're going with a non lock up torque converter and have a different converter clutch valve to put in the pump. The kit from Art Carr says to remove the cap plug thats already there, install the new valve and put a new cap plug in. The new cap plug doesn't have a hole in it. What is the new plug supposed to do? Is it supposed to keep the valve from rotating? Or is it the fact that there's no hole in the new one? The Art Carr kit has old instructions where a cap screw was used instead of a plug. We put the new valve and new plug in, but the plug seems loose and doesn't keep the valve from rotating.

Any advice?
Thanks.
 
i like to see .003 front,.008 middle and .003 rear end play.sorry for no reply been out of town and all kinds of other misfortunes.
 
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