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How do I remove transmission?

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jghall6

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
74
How do I remove the transmission on my 87 Grand National? I will do this in my garage using jack stands.
 
I've done it many times with the car on jack stands. Get you a flex socket (9/16 I think) and long extention to get the bolts at top of tranny where it connects to motor. After it's unhooked you can lower it with a floor jack. Good luck.
 
The tutorial listed is about it. However, you need to get a large pan to drain your fluid into. Remove a few pan bolts at the rear, and slowly loosen the others. You may have to use a screwdriver to get the pan to turn loose of the gasket. Pry gently. You want to produce a controllable draining of the fluid into your catch pan, not a sudden deluge of the red stuff all over the floor. Do not just yank the driveshaft from the rear of the tranny first, or you will have fluid all over creation. Take your time. I just did mine (again!), and it took me 4 hours with regular hand tools, jack stands, floor jacks, etc. to pull the unit. Just reinstall the unit reverse of removal. Not too much trouble. You do not have to remove the starter, or the exhaust system. You will need a long wobble extension to get the upper bellhousing bolts. They are indeed 9/16 as previously stated. Good luck. Counterman.
 
I get the lower and middle bell housing bolts with an extension. Personally, I pull the top ones with an offset box-end wrench.

Get a little practice at it and you'll be dropping one in under an hour in no time. Buy or make yourself a nice wide pan for your jack to keep from damaging the pan and better balance it. Oh, and you might want to have a drain plug put in your pan while it's out. Not on the bottom where it will get in the way when putting a jack under it, but back on a corner.
 
A really good pan to drain fluid is found at Lowes or Home Depot.
Go to the building materials section and where they sell bags of concrete mix they have really large plastic tubs to mix the cement. They measure about 24 x 30 x 6 and cost less than $5
 
Save the aggravation and pull the coil back (wire plug and 3 bolts that hold it down)and get the 2 top bolts from up to with a 9/16 box end wrench. Waaay easier and quicker than fighting the long socket and universal
 
Save the aggravation and pull the coil back (wire plug and 3 bolts that hold it down)and get the 2 top bolts from up to with a 9/16 box end wrench. Waaay easier and quicker than fighting the long socket and universal

Even easier with the ratcheting box wrenches.:)
 
Even easier with the ratcheting box wrenches.:)

True...yeah if they a have a skinny head/end (mine were too big) as the trans on the pass side has that casting gusset and the dipstick tube and the driver side has just the gusset.

Also the grnd on the driver side put the wrire crimp towards the enige and the flat back to rear of the car upon reassmbly
 
I removed the transmission yesterday. No problems. How do I tell if it is the original transmission? On the right side it has a adhesive paper tag with: "7BRF", "Three Rivers", "617BRFR00028817" and a barcode. There is also a yellow metal tag on the right side near the tail shaft that has: "BR F" and the serial number 327-871BRF 0247. I could not find a VIN number on the transmission case. I going to take it to a guy in Valdosta, GA who was recommended by the GSCA.
 
Not sure if it's the original one for the car, but the BRF code tag means that it's at least the correct trans for the car.
 
VIN will be on a flat spot at the rear of the trans above the pan rail. Forget which side
 
trans removal

You might want to consider renting a transmission jack. It can be done with a floor jack, balancing on a board or something, but if this is your first time, it will make things a lot easier, safer, and less risk of dropping the trans on the ground.
 
Another option for a good trans jack is one of the ATV/ motorcycle jacks. The design of the hydraulic action can make the unit rachet towards (or away) from the bellhousing depending on how you orient and position the trans on it. You would need extra lift jack stands supporting the frame rails though if you go that route. Works for me as I already had the ATV/ cycle jack.
 
Save the aggravation and pull the coil back (wire plug and 3 bolts that hold it down)and get the 2 top bolts from up to with a 9/16 box end wrench. Waaay easier and quicker than fighting the long socket and universal

X2
 
If you use a floor jack, just cut a piece of wood about 12" by 12" and cut a hole for the drain plug to set in. That way you will even the weight out over the pan and not dent it. I will make it a little more stable.
 
I am fixing to pull mine to.Where is the best place to put your jackstands?Is it okay to put them under the rear axles?
 
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