How much for a rear main seal job?

[Turbobuick2410]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25532588-BE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item417dd2b6f6&vxp=mtr Napa also carries it,

 

[turbobully]

Thank you. So I am going to go w/ the fel pro gaskets, this cam button, and the TA billet timing set w/ tensioner. If anyone has any input on anything else I should consider please let me know. I looked at the earlbrown cover w/ oil mods its a really nice looking unit but its a lot of $ for my goals and this is quickly snowballing like every other project with these cars....

 

[GNONYX]

Timing chain set – Cloyes #C-3018K- E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cloyes-Gear...Parts_Accessories&hash=item540463cc02&vxp=mtr - $17.95

New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675 - $4.84


Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_0191974674 - $15.14


Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2 -- $9.99

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
Called them for verification of timing chain replacement

Others may chime in but I used red loc-tite on the Cam bolts

 

[turbobully]

Ok so I ordered all my parts but in the process talked with a knowledgeably GN guy. I told him my situation and he advised me NOT to change the rear main seal if its only leaking a little bit. He said its very difficult to get a good seal even when building new engines and I might be opening up a can of worms. Does anyone have any feedback on that? The leak isnt bad its just that I end up with oil on under the car. I cant really say how much I am loosing as I just put the car on the road but I could not even measure any oil loss from the time I bought it in February until now.

 

[we4Mateo]

My hunch is that he's not a GN guy if he hasn't done a ton of rear main seal jobs on these motors. It's not that hard.

 

[turbobully]

Ok thanks for your feedback. he is a GN guy hes a vendor on this forum and one in your sig. I really would like to get it done simply to keep the damn car clean but I got nervous after the discussion...

 

[GNONYX]

I did mine in my garage, didn't know how to do it, but I did read a lot and ask many questions, and most important of all is patience, patience, and more patience.

You don't have to remove the engine, nor you don't have to lift the engine in order to remove the oil pan.

You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made and not ripped, just make sure it's clean on both sides.

Here are some site on how to replace the rear end seal, but keep in mind the pictures showing is for a TTA and not an GN, and you don't have to lift the motor in order to remove the oil pan cover. Most of the info is for a TTA, but it gives you some ideas.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
http://home.comcast.net/~tta1456/rearmain.htm

This is some info to start your engine journey, and Definitely ask questions when in doubt

There will be many questions you will be asking as you go along with the procedure of removing and installing the new parts.
Many will chime as to their way of priming the oil pump for oil pressure; this is my way if you choice to do so:
First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.

I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653

And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

 

[we4Mateo]

Ok thanks for your feedback. he is a GN guy hes a vendor on this forum and one in your sig. I really would like to get it done simply to keep the damn car clean but I got nervous after the discussion...

Interesting. Goes to show that opinions vary. I've never gotten one to completely seal, but my neoprene one has been in there for 65k miles and never leaked as much as the original rope seal at 30k. There are tricks ie: don't line up the breaks in the seal with the breaks in the cap. A dab of sealant in the corners seals up the rest pretty well. Good luck either way you decide to go.

 

[Pliskin1]

Tailgaiting on this thread and have a question specific to the oil pan gasket - The cork one or the silicone rubber? I have the Felpro for my rear main, but wondering about the oil pan.

 

[Turbobuick2410]

I have used the rubber and the key is to make sure everything is clean and then cleaned again so it does not slip out. Also the bolts are not hammer down tight just snug I'm not sure what the spec is but its very minimal.

 

[1952ray]

Per Dennis Kirban, Richard Clark only uses the rubber one

 

[GNONYX]

I bought mine at O'Reilly Auto Parts which was rubber with something that looks like fiberglass material on the rubber.
I also used two long piece of strong thin rode, loop both side skipping every two holes on the oil pan cover hole. Place the oil pan cover in place with few threaded bolts on the non-rode holes, then pull the rode on one side first, then the other side.
This will keep the rubber gasket from moving around and to ensure the rubber gasket stays in place.

 

[Wahoo]

I have used the rubber and the key is to make sure everything is clean and then cleaned again so it does not slip out. Also the bolts are not hammer down tight just snug I'm not sure what the spec is but its very minimal.

Anyone know the spec for the oil pan bolts? What about the oil pick up tube bolts as well? I need to do timing chain, cam sprocket, tensioner and cam button. As well as the oil pan gasket. So once I'm up to it, it will be a project for sure! I just hope my rear main seal is ok.

Oh yeah and my passenger valve cover seems to be leaking as well.

 

[GNONYX]

Also use red locl tite on the cam sprocket bolts as well as on the oil pick tube, and don't forget to put gasket on as well.

 

[Wahoo]

Also use red locl tite on the cam sprocket bolts as well as on the oil pick tube, and don't forget to put gasket on as well.

Nothing for the oil pick up tube for torque specs?

 

[whitehot1]

Oil pickup tube torque spec is 96 inch lbs.

Here is a torque spec list for you.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/torque.html